ZZ4 86 Z28

iTrader: (1)

Hey I need some direction. I picked my car up a while ago and its got a decent amount of power...but no structure. I am pretty sure the springs are stock, the struts are sensatrac, the shocks are gas-a-matic, no sfcs or anything like that. So basically where should i go first, i should be running real high 12s so ill probably ruin some stuff pretty bad if i dont do something to build up. also, how can i make sure my frame is straight before welding in sfcs? thats definantly what im doing first. anyhow, let me know where you think i should go first. i dont have much dough to spend and i am way more worried about making it stable now than making it handle good. thanks a lot.

irocbracketrace

One of the first steps is deffenitly subframe connecters. when you install them make sure that the car is supported at four points of the suspension and not supported off of the unibody or the car will be bowed out of shape. the next thing to do is a tourqe arm and boxed trailing arms. this will mack a huge difference in drag racing. I took a bone stock 88 irock 350 tpi and knocked off almost a full second in the quarter by doing suspension work. another tip if the car is not on the street much is to take off the front and rear sway bars. good luck with your build.

Shagwell

Subframes first, then, new shocks(and possibly struts), then lca relocates and boxed lcas. The relocates will do a lot more than the tq arm. An aftermarket ta is great, but other things do more for less. There are many guys ripping really good 60fts on the stock ta.

The relocate brackets make a huge difference in how the car will launch. Unless your car is sitting high for some reason(doesn't appear to be) then you'll quickly see a benefit from lowering the rear of the lca. - AS you stated though, do sfc's first, take the twist out first.

As for the possibility of it already being twisted, I doubt it. If it is, there would be a large crack in the body at the roof/b-pillar area(back/top corner of door window). Also, you would probably notice funky quirks in how the car handles.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

A polyurethane bushing kit is pretty cheap for all the benefits you get.
I used new moog 5664's in the front, cc635's in the back, KYB gr2's in the front, KYB gas-a-just in the rear, home boxed the LCA's and panhard, and put poly everywhere in the suspension. Total cost there is just a bit over $500 or so - and the difference in phenomenal. I'd still do SFC's first. But with all these, it's like driving a race car. Just awesome.


Shagwell - do you think with a tall rear tire, LCA relocates would be useless for me?

ZZ4 86 Z28

iTrader: (1)

alright thanks for the great advice guys. i have a custom fab shop makin me some custom sfcs with both sides and cross pieces. 300 bucks for making them and welding them in. the guy is on tgo and has done many of my friends cars. i really didnt know it made that much of a difference.

So far:
SFC
LCARB and LCA
PHB
Shocks/struts

Good order?

How much you think I can drop off my times? I have a zz1 crate motor (aluminum headed motor with 700dp and performer rpm and msd 6al, etc) hooked up to a 700r4 and a 373 rear (not sure if its posi or not but i leave 2 marks even around turns).

Also, would you add in fiberglass hood for weight reduction/transfer before any of these mods? maybe before shocks/struts?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

No, weight reduction i'd put much lower on the priority list.

I wouldn't even worry about a panhard bar much, that's more for handling. They are pretty cheap though I guess...
If you still want good handling, get the poly endlinks on your sway bars.

How are the springs? Does the car sag much? You can wear out nice new shocks really fast if you've got worn out springs.

ZZ4 86 Z28

iTrader: (1)

i have no clue. im not really interested in having the car handle that much. i just want it to be nice and sturdy/solid to handle some power....for now. this is mostly a street car too. just dont wanna break anything, and maybe get a better launch while im at it.

Shagwell

Relocates are a great tuning device. Lowering the rear of the lca allows the rear more time to try to plant the tires before moving the car. - Most cars seem to work well with the lca's either parrallel to the ground or lower in the back.

I too agree that new bushings and such are a great way to tighten up the car. We all have to remember how old these things are getting to be....