daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

alright ive always had some wheel hop with the car.after installing the drag shocks it got alot better.
when i had the 4:10's it wasnt that bad cause the turbo wouldnt spool up till about 60 ft down track.so the power level was pretty low

now i that i put 3:42's back in the car its bad i have instant boost off the line now and the thing just hops uncontrolably.

all the bushings are good, the rear of my lca are level with the fronts like they should be.the car has springs out of a 1le car,along with the 1le sway bar


open to some suggestions on how to fix this, right now im gonna go drop the lca's out and box them but i dont htink thats gonna do it

brutalform

I would go ahead and box the arms. It might help more than you think. Just weld an inch, and skip an inch, so they wont warp.
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BTW, which bushings are you using?

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

they are just stock/ replacements nothing special,yeah im in the middle of boxing the arms now, hopefully in the next 30 mins or so ill get it done and go test it out.

im also thinking my shocks may be on 2 diff settings, like one is on xtra firm and the other on firm etc etc, wish i would have goten ones that were **** adjustable then id be sure they are in the same spot

strokermotor91

Do you have an adjustable torque arm on it. Cause changing the pinion angle drastically reduces the wheel hop.

brutalform

Yea, mine are stock arms that are boxed. They work really well. Get some poly bushings in them while you are at it. I had poly bushings, then went to the solid bushings. Really made no difference in performance, between them. Just a bit harsher ride now.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

oh this is an easy fix, dont box those arms they are heavy and weak, get a cheap tubular LCA with poly installed, and get LCA relocation brackets from UMI, get the bolt ins bc u can bolt them in and then weld them if u want bc they have more metal and are beefier and painted. ur LCA is not supose to be level with the front part, the end that connects to the rear is suppose to be lower than the fronts, this is for when u step the gas the rear is forced to rotate with the tire and forces the rearend housing towards the front of the car, if the LCA is level it will not stop and hold the rear and will rotate with the rear causing horrible wheel hop. i can garentee thats ur prob. get a set of 100$ tubular LCA's from UMI or another. get the UMI LCA relocation brackets and this will fix ur wheel hop or help dramitically, the brackets are cheap like 70$ and set the LCA at the lowest positon on the bolt holes. u should also look into ur torque arm, if u havent replaced it a poly bushing will help the stock peice survive. panhard rod will help also, but the LCA's and relocation brackets is what u need for ur prob i know that for a fact.

Shagwell

Although boxed arms and lcarb's may do the trick, it's not neccessarily the problem. - Also, you can't reccomend the lowest hole all the time, as that may not work for some cars. They are designed with multiple holes for a reason. I know first hand of cars that hook harder in the 1st hole(Dans87GTA). The lca angle also greatly affects handling, too much angle can easily be a hinderance in cornering.

- I would get aftermarket arms. You can get boxed Lakewood units from summit for less than $100 with poly bushings. The work involved in boxing stock ones, plus buying and installing poly bushings is close/equal to cost of these. The UMI units can also be found for around $100. For launch on street tires, stick with poly bushings, as the sphericals tend to "hit" too hard for anything less than true drag tires. - LCA's, then possibly LCARB's, then tq arm/pinion angle. - If you already have an adjustable tq arm, start playing with pinion angle. The more aggressive the angle, the hard it throws the tires down, but the harder it is for the shocks to keep it from rebounding.

Steve89GTA

I installed Spoohn LCA's 6 years ago and havent had any wheel hop since. My car is lowered with th eibach prokit springs too...

BMmonteSS

Wheel hop isn't really cured by playing with you instant center (lcarb, shorter torque arms) it just kinda circumvents the result by adding more traction.

Wheel hop is caused by compliance in the drivetrain,what happens is as you launch your torque arm, lower control arms and most importantly your tires all flex and wrap up. As you loose traction they all spring back into position and traction is momentarily regained. This process repeats itself and is what we percieve as wheel hop.

Stiffer control arms will help, but the biggest culprit is often your tires. Just as an experiment try jacking your tire pressures up and see how wheel hop is effected. Unless you are running drag radials you should be able to run 45 to 50 psi safely. I would be willing to bet that your wheel hop will go away or at least be quited down imensely. Of course this isn't the fix, because that much pressure doesn't help traction, it'll just show that you need a different tire.

customblackbird

iTrader: (15)

its just not me that recomends lowest hole in the LCA brackets, they say for even a stock ride height car it is prob a good idea, but yea cars will react diff to diff holes, i would test each hole and see how the car reacts. i used lowest hole bc i dropped max with sportlines. def get aftermarket LCA's tho, doesnt matter there all really the same but cromemoly are nice light peices and ive seen aluminum but i would stick to steel or moly. and def poly, the squeeks arent too bad

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

it was my sway bar the whole time,when i had swaped over to the 1le suspension i had ordered a energy suspension endlink kit,well the endlinks were to short, i knew about it when i put them on. I had planed on just using them till i could get the right ones instead of driving without a rear sway bar.but i had completly forgeten about it till recently.now that ive swaped back in the correct endlink kit,the car does not wheelhop

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

i'll be damned.
So the right length (just to make sure I know this), means that the flat part of your sway bar is level with the ground when the car has the suspension loaded?

Shagwell

The bind in the end link bushings causing the suspension to unload......hmm. If it works it works.

daves12secV6

iTrader: (3)

opps didnt relize u guys replied.
yeah its just about parrell now.
ill see if i can take some pics to show the diff
but to give u an idea of how short the links i had put on before were.
u know how the rear swaybar usually sits at the bottom edge of the rear housing. mine was down about 2 inches from were it should sit thats how far the thing was rotated
when i put the endlinks in i actually had to have a friend sit on the back of the car to compress the rear suspension so i could get the nuts started.
i just didnt want to drive without a swaybar so i didnt really think about how much trouble those short endlinks were gonna cause.