Josh R

iTrader: (1)

I have a 1986 Iroc-Z and i have already put in:

Front 36mm swaybar and poly bushings and endlinks
Edelbrock Triple Mount Strut Tower Brace
Alston Subframe Connectors
UMI adjustable Panhard Bar
HotPart PolyBall Bushing Control Arms
UMI LCA relocation brackets
Rear Poly Swaybar bushings and endlinks

I want to know what i should do next to make my car handle even better. I heard strut mounts are a big difference. I could get a torque arm but i want a T56 eventually so im not going to do that right now. I have poly front control arm bushings, but not new control arms. How much of a difference do front control arms make?

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Shocks/struts and tires. Good ones.
I'd say get some KONIs, but those are money (about $700). Tires are a little harder to choose. I'd reccomend GS-D3s, but those are summer tires only. I like my BFGs. But, tires and shocks are where you should spend the most money. The shocks control the suspension and the tires are where the rubber meets the road and if you have poor ones, everything you do the car is pointless.

Josh R

iTrader: (1)

I have KYB Excel-G shocks and struts. I want Konis but they are really expensive. I have a set of BFGoodrich Traction T/As right now, but im going to get ZR1 9.5x17 and 11x17s rims. This way i can keep my 24mm rear swaybar and not have to much oversteer. Shocks Rims and Tires are a more future upgrade.

How big of a difference did the J&M Camber Caster plates make?

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

They help the feel of the car. Makes if feel more connected and controlable due the fact you now have less play in that part of the suspension. But I did them when I did my struts, so I can't really say how much they help the handling.
My car has 275/40ZR17 BFGoodrich g-Force sports all around and I'm runnning a GM 24 mm rear bar with a GM 36mm front bar, and my car is pretty nuetral.
I like having the same sized tire all around so I can rotate. I don't really see a need for such large rear tires unless you have the power to need more tire for turn exits or the car will actually benefit from the added traction.
I would tell you to get some springs for the car, but I'm not sure how the KYBs would hold up to lowering springs (dampening wise).
All in all, I say get the strut mounts if you can't swing the KONIs. Yours, if they are stock, or even a few years old, they could stand replacing.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

I say don't bother upgrading to tubular A-arms. You probably wont see much of a difference. The stock ones are stiff enough as is. The only gain would be a reduction in unsprung weight, but if you want to lose weight off the front, I say buy a glass hood.

After taking out my stock strut mounts, I was surpised to see that I was doing so well for my racing even though they were worn out. However, I can't say for sure how much of a difference the J&M mounts made for my car because tonight was the first time I drove with them. It was also the first time I drove with the new Pro-kit, Koni Yellows, rear disks, and new rear end. To make things even more uncertain, it was raining so I wasn't able to push the car much and I almost went to far to begin with. I ended up merging onto the highway in a drift... I almost pooped myself but fortunately there wasn't much traffic. At least I wont have to give my brother a ride anymore lol.

Mike

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

It's a whole new ball game now isn't, Mike? I didn't do mine all at once like did, but each upgrade was "wow". I can't imagine them all at once.

The replacment control arms don't really offer much than new bushings, ball joints, and a lighter control arm. Which is good because loosing weight in the supsenions is very beneficial. But, if you have the money for those, I think you would see more gains and be better off to buy a set of front KONIs.

Josh R

iTrader: (1)

yeah im thinking Konis are definetely next on my list for big purchases. I have the bushings for the front control arms i just need to get them put it. Maybe ill spend the money on that.

I also dont want to lower my car. I love Iroc-Zs at stock height. If i get springs im getting the Moog Replacements.

What about another set of subframe connectors. I have the Alston inner types but i was considering getting the UMI outer types too. Is it worth it?

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I did my own control arm bushings. It's not that hard to get the arms out and it's easy to find someone to press the bushings in/out. I don't know about the two sets of SFCs. I've not looked into it, but it would come down to how much stiffer it made the car compared to the extra weight.
How much do you have to spend?

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

I personally don't see the point in getting two of something. It should be one and done. That's why I just splurged now to get the Koni's and everything else this way it is done and I'll have it through college.

Edit - I didn't want to do it all at once but it was one of those things were you have it all sitting there and your working on that part of the car anyway so it's like, what the heck, why not.

It has dried out so I was hoping to take another "test drive" to really test it but I was swamped with homework... darn AP classes... anyway, back to the books.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I didn't do mine all at once cause I couldn't afford it. I did the wonder bar, rear sway bar, PHB, rear end, springs, rear shocks, front sway bar, front struts/mounts, LCAs, SFCs... Kinda wacky order, but I was learning and there wasn't much in the way of a how-to on here.

Josh R

iTrader: (1)

i now only have about 200 bucks in my pocket. I could technically save up. I make about 160 a week. Would be more if it werent for school. Homework for those AP classes you know. But im no good at saving. Im probably gonna put the front bushings in. Get a new muffler and finish my cold air intake. Ill start saving for KONIs. Then for the Rims. It'll take a while.

Josh R

iTrader: (1)

do they make rear strut braces? I know hatchbacks are usually weak in the back... i can't seem to find one for our car.

Is it because we have that big suspension hump in the back that makes it rigid?

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

This is the order I did mine...

1. 36mm front bar w/ poly
2. UMI PHB and LCA
3. Corbeau Forza seats (not suspension but it helped me stay in control)
4. added more welds to my stock wonderbar (I think it made it stronger)
5. 24mm rear bar w/ poly
6. Koni Yellows, J&M strut mounts, Pro-kit, braided lines, disk/disk prop, new rear end with better gear ratio and disk brakes, poly trans mount, poly torque arm mount

The following is what is still waiting to go on... no time for it

1. Edelbrock 3pt STB
2. UMI LCARB and Spohn SFC
3. G-Force 5pt harnesses

I'm thinking of going to a smaller rear swaybar due to the "merging onto the highway sideways" incident. But, maybe I should wait until SFC's go on... who knows.

I hear ya there! I make about 200-250 a week because I somehow manage to have three jobs, so that is where the $ is coming from for all the goodies on my car.

I was wondering the same thing when I was swapping my shocks. I would think the "hump" in the rear would provide a lot of stiffness due to the arc of the metal (it's like bending a giant tube in my opinion). Since no one makes a rear STB for our cars, it would be interesting to find someone who has made one and if they noticed a difference. Anyone have the time to make one?

Mike

Josh R

iTrader: (1)

I did my stuff about the same order as you except subframes first.

OH and by the way the Edelbrock strut tower brace made a HUGE difference! The front end is so tight. The steering response is freaking beautiful. It made the car so much more agile. Less understeer. Anywayyy...

And that whole drifting sideways is why i want the 11 inch Zr1s in the back. So i can still have the 24mm stiffness and steering response but the back end wont swing around me. Although that can be fun haha.

Do you think the Poly torque arm mount did much?

I ordered the TDS wonderbar. Hopefully that will make a difference.

i might make a rear strut brace. Doesnt seem that hard. I have engineering class so i can get the materials and mill out the mounts to fit around the top of the strut tower. The rest is just a bar and welding. But no back seats. O well who needs passengers.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I've had my car for almost 5 years. I started with the stereo (Pioneer, set-up one), then the exterior, then started suspension work. Put in the second stereo a couple of years ago. 4th gen seats went in last year. I probably could have alot more done to my car, but I'm working through college and I tend to spend too much on clothes lately lol. I make from 380-550 a week when I do work, but I normally don't work when classes are in.

My car doesn't have the issue with swinging out, and I have just about the same setup as you. Try working with the KONIs settings. I mean, it'll swing out if I hammer on it in the rain, but what V8 RWD car won't? I can take on most on ramps @50-70 and the car won't slide out as long as I'm out of the gas at entry, and ease on the gas for the exit (no auto-x around here now to test at). The car actually has understeer until I set the front KONIs past a certain point. With the 25mm bar, it would slip and slide all over the track and was rear end happy on the street. Your cars won't be the exact same, even if we have similar set-ups, but it should be close.

I need to get STB at some point. Maybe after I finish with my LS1 front brake conversion and get the steering box from my WS6 parts car rebuilt. Actually, before I get the box rebuilt, I need to get my amplifiers out of layaway and get my stereo finished. (why the hell I spent ~$500 on amps when I've been wanting Weight Jacks, or a steering box, or a bigger front brake kit, or..... I'll never know). I may actually go bigger this summer and sale my complete LS1 kit to fund a WilWood front brake kit. Don't need it for the street or even Auto-x.... but I love that way it'll look behind my 16s lol.

I'm not sure on this, but I think the rear strut tower isn't used because there really isn't much weight carried by the rear shocks. At least not like there is on the front. Rear strut bars usually come with or for cars with a coilover suspension on the back. With these, the weight is supported on the strut mount instead of the spring mount like our cars.

The wonder bar will help the car be more rigid, which is good. But don't expect a world of difference. Some say there is, others say there is not. I certainly felt that front was less sloppy after I installed it, but it may go back to the psychologic "I just spent money on this- it does feel better" lol.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

So what settings are you running your Konis at? I currently have them set to full soft. After taking a 'spirited' drive now that it is everything is dry, it seems as though there is too much understeer. Then again, I wasn't on a real course so it may be a little different. I guess my plan is to install the STB then adjust the Konis.

Can't comment on how the feel of the car changed after the wonderbar because my car had it to begin with. I have two stock wonderbars for sale if your interested.

PS - If you do decide not to use your LS1 setup, send me a message; I may be interested.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I normally run mine on full soft, but to negate the understeer I normally turn the fronts up (fromt full soft) 540 degrees and leave the rears full soft. At least I think it's 540.... it's been a while since I've messed with them. Like I said, I normally run 0/0 for comfort.

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, I'm really looking forward to getting the STB on my car.

My uncle didn't believe that 17x9.5 wheels with 275 tires would fit all around on my car without mods of any kind so he said if I can prove they fit he's gonna buy them... am I lucky or what?

Main reason I made this post is that I forgot to address the last question you had. The main reason I was messing with that area of the car is because my tranny mount bushing was almost non-existent and since I was down there I figured it would be a good time to upgrade the torque arm mount. I don't hear a clunk/thud anymore when the car shifts, and the shifts feel more firm. It also breaks the tires loose easy, but that may just be the different gear ratio (3.27 vs old 2.73).

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

Played with the settings on the KONIs any?

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Nope. I was going to after school yesterday but it started raining again. I'll try today since it dried up a little. When I adjust them can I just rotate how ever much a I want or are there preset spots it needs to be in (such as one rotation, 2 rotations...)?

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

It's not preset. You have to take to match the sides to one another. I just try to set my finger at the starting point and turn it back to that point so it's at least close. I think there are instructions on how to adjust them (not the act of adjusting but how to make sure you get the settings right. online somewhere. I think you start soft and stiffen them til you get them where you want it.... I think

racing geek

iTrader: (5)

Yeah after school I stopped by the new neighborhood for some more fun and actually remembered the adjuster ****! The first time I forgot it at home... It now stays in my center counsel.

It seems as though one full rotation (360*) was ideal for my car. I'm still thinking that will change because it was 42* outside so the tires were cold and I still have the SFC and STB to install. Looking forward to getting those on the car... so are my friends.

On a side note, it has been talked about over and over again, but I can now say for certain that I have the best handling car at my school. I out performed a BMW Z3! I was amazed too... maybe it was the A-hole behind the wheel that can't drive for ****. He is one of the kids where Daddy buys everything and he's all talk. Take that foreigners!!! I'm now the talk of all the Automotive classes and have been recieving a lot of questions about my car, and people are more interested in the autocrossing that I do (maybe he'll show up next season so I can beat him again). I refuse to let those darn imports take over the school. The only thing they have over us is obnoxious noise, and even some people on the boards here would give them a run for their money in that area.

91_5.7_TPI

iTrader: (2)

I've had mine at 540 for a the last few days, and I like it. Haven't really 'driven' the car much though.
I wish I could have gotten some work done to my car when I was in high school. I don't think I had anything done to it other than a CD player at that point. I've handed a few cars their ***** over the years. Just remember to not get too froggy and get hurt. Things can happen fast, even if it's not your fault. It's good your getting people interseted in 3rd gens and auto-x. Most people just think of them as ****** (wow, m*llet is blocked?) sleds or red-neck-mobiles. I've actually have several people (4th gen ppl, Ford ppl, Honda ppl, etc) come up to me and tell me that they hate 3rd gens, but love mine. Makes me feel good.