Suspension / ChassisQuestions about your suspension? Need chassis advice?
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im wanting to do some suspension work this winter so i can hook up better at the drag strip next year,anybody wanna coach me? i've never messed with aftermarket suspension parts before,so where do i start? and whats the best bang for the buck?im already planning on getting a set of nitto drag radials but i know im gonna need more than that to hook up like i want,any help would be appreciated,thanks in advance.
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Id say get some LCA's and Panhard bar...all adjustable with rod ends(will hurt the ride quality but it will hook better). Also get yourself a nice torq arm. Make sure you have some decent springs and good shocks at least. If its strickley a drag car obviously go with some nice drag springs and shocks but if its used on the road more then the track id say get new springs of your choice(depends if you want to lower it at all or not) and deffenitly get some nice shocks(id say the bilstein sport or maybe the koni's. Idk how good either are at drag shocks tho. If you do go the drag shock route it wont handle well on the road when you go into corners. Other then that it sounds like your car is set up pretty well just need the suspension to back it up.
__________________ 91 Firebird-75,XXX-3.1L Mods so far: Custom air intake, K&N Filter, high-flow Magnaflow cat, 2.5 cat-back Super Turbo Dynomax dual out the rear, alpine head unit, custom box and amp rack, two 12in DB3 subs and two profile AP1000M amps, Kentik HC800 power cell, memphis front and back speakers, Compustar alarm system, Gtech PRO SS meter, Autometer A-Pillar guages, 16in GTA style rims w/ 245-50r16 tires, Directional treads in front, straights out back.
Upcoming Mods: Poly Bushings, LCA's, Panhard bar, SFC's, Wonderbar, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni Yellows, Front end rebuild kit, LS1 swap w/ 6 speed man. tranny, Aluminum Driveshaft, Limited Slip rear end, Shift kit, Window Tint, Grant Wheel, Autometer in dash gauges, Upgrade subs and do all componet speakers, New Paint will be the last thing to do.
Id say get some LCA's and Panhard bar...all adjustable with rod ends(will hurt the ride quality but it will hook better). Also get yourself a nice torq arm. Make sure you have some decent springs and good shocks at least. If its strickley a drag car obviously go with some nice drag springs and shocks but if its used on the road more then the track id say get new springs of your choice(depends if you want to lower it at all or not) and deffenitly get some nice shocks(id say the bilstein sport or maybe the koni's. Idk how good either are at drag shocks tho. If you do go the drag shock route it wont handle well on the road when you go into corners. Other then that it sounds like your car is set up pretty well just need the suspension to back it up.
Thanks man,what about the lca relocation brackets?should i get a set of those to?
i thought poly was better for drag... my rode ends make no noise or change in ride comfort, and i'm very sensitive,
As far as ive been told(not through experience as i havent build this car yet due to funds)...rod ends are better for drag because it doesnt have any give to it. It transfers the power straight to the wheels with less loss of power. Its like if your car keeps twisting of the line...all that twisting is wasting power that could be going straight to the wheels. Obviously to get rid of that effect in our cars it takes alot of reinforcement tho.
As for the sfc's and lca relocation brakets. Yeah you should get those. SFC are a MUST on any car weather its a DD or racecar. Either way you need them. Why they didnt do it from the factory i have no clue.
After the changes you just added. It all looks good to me. Seeing how your about to go on a buying freenzy wanna help a fellow third gener' out and buy me that whole list too. Im in desprite need of all new suspension stuff and really cant afford it. I just bought a 06 dodge ram slt cause well first its my first truck and i really needed one for all the stuff i do around the house lol...and second i only have the firebird as my winter car died after its 200,000 miles lol(trying to get every last penny i could outta it, i sold it for $200 to a guy that scraps cars tho). Either way i dont have the money for even el' cheapo suspension lol.
SOOO if your loaded and wanna help me out that would be cool lol....in return ill help you put all your stuff in your car and wash and wax it lol........ehhh its worth the try right?
__________________ 91 Firebird-75,XXX-3.1L Mods so far: Custom air intake, K&N Filter, high-flow Magnaflow cat, 2.5 cat-back Super Turbo Dynomax dual out the rear, alpine head unit, custom box and amp rack, two 12in DB3 subs and two profile AP1000M amps, Kentik HC800 power cell, memphis front and back speakers, Compustar alarm system, Gtech PRO SS meter, Autometer A-Pillar guages, 16in GTA style rims w/ 245-50r16 tires, Directional treads in front, straights out back.
Upcoming Mods: Poly Bushings, LCA's, Panhard bar, SFC's, Wonderbar, Eibach Pro Kit, Koni Yellows, Front end rebuild kit, LS1 swap w/ 6 speed man. tranny, Aluminum Driveshaft, Limited Slip rear end, Shift kit, Window Tint, Grant Wheel, Autometer in dash gauges, Upgrade subs and do all componet speakers, New Paint will be the last thing to do.
I hooked very good with stock torque arm but its nice to have an adjustable unit to get some more pinion angle. Does help with traction but Not sure when its needed..I was doing 1.7x 60 foots with stock arm with bolt on L98. Aftermarket one helped it seemed but not really sure
Subframe connectors should be considered. I ran without them for years and once i got them and a cage the car was soo much more solid off the line. Ran better to since less flex.
LCA's and brackets, and I'd try to put the arms at the bottom hole if the car is lowered at all. I ran bottom hole on my somewhat lowered car andit hooked well but handled funny so i left them 2nd from bottom (basically the other hole available) which kept arms about parrallel to the ground like factory geometry. Hooked good on that so i left it there.
Biggest things that are gonna help traction are springs/shocks/struts. Adjustable is a must if you want to handle on the street and be good at the track as well. I dont have soft drag springs, i have eibach prokit but with adjustable tokico shocks, it hooks well. 1.41 60 foot on my nitrous 383 off the line. Didnt even pull the wheels, just hooked and went straight out like a gunshot. Thats what you want to do
I hooked very good with stock torque arm but its nice to have an adjustable unit to get some more pinion angle. Does help with traction but Not sure when its needed..I was doing 1.7x 60 foots with stock arm with bolt on L98. Aftermarket one helped it seemed but not really sure
Subframe connectors should be considered. I ran without them for years and once i got them and a cage the car was soo much more solid off the line. Ran better to since less flex.
LCA's and brackets, and I'd try to put the arms at the bottom hole if the car is lowered at all. I ran bottom hole on my somewhat lowered car andit hooked well but handled funny so i left them 2nd from bottom (basically the other hole available) which kept arms about parrallel to the ground like factory geometry. Hooked good on that so i left it there.
Biggest things that are gonna help traction are springs/shocks/struts. Adjustable is a must if you want to handle on the street and be good at the track as well. I dont have soft drag springs, i have eibach prokit but with adjustable tokico shocks, it hooks well. 1.41 60 foot on my nitrous 383 off the line. Didnt even pull the wheels, just hooked and went straight out like a gunshot. Thats what you want to do
sounds good,thanks for the tips,any more tips anyone?
sounds good,thanks for the tips,any more tips anyone?
Hello
Below is a list of parts that I would suggest and reasons.
SFC 2400 they will keep the car solid and keep the ripples off of the quarter panels.
A set of adjustable lower control arms either single (2016) or double (2017)
Helps eliminate the flexing from the shockers.
And a set of lower control arm relocation brackets. (2012 bolt on) or (2010 weld on) to allow you relocate the lower control arm to be more parallel to the surface. Therefore increasing your traction performance and eliminating wheel hop.
And a adjustable torque arm either tunnel mounted version or a relocation cross member. Below is a link to show you what all UMI Performance has to offer!
Would that hook up good at the track and still be decent on the street?
Looks like a fun beginning to a project...
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__________________ Lee Spicher lee@bmrfabrication.com (813)986-9302 QUICKEST/FASTEST TORQUE ARM CAR IN THE COUNTRY Will Stevenson 4.72 1/8 7.33 1/4 BMR Suspension on drag radials
*1986 IROC-Z
Will Stevenson 4.72 1/8 7.33 1/4 BMR Suspension on drag radials 
