Tonglebeak

iTrader: (1)

Well, to start off, I've never worked on a suspension for a RWD vehicle before. I looked at the sticky, did some googling etc.

I have no idea what it's for: is it to hold both side's tierods together?

They didn't say any of my tie rods were bad. Should I just go ahead and replace those as well?

What would be recommended as far as replacement parts? Any special upgrades that can be done, or is this a simple "replace it with stock" job?

Also, where can I find directions to replace this thing? Thanks.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

So what don't you understand about what is on the Sticky?

If this is a stock car, and going to be used for stock type driving, then yes the stock stuff out there is fine, if it will be raced then get stronger stuff from Spohn.

Give us more precise questions and we can answer them for you. If the tie rods are fine, then leave them be. If you have the $ to burn, then burn it.

Its all up to you and what you want.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

You didn't mention which sticky you looked at, so if the following is a repeat, my apologies:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ion-101-a.html

You don't say how old your car is, but if it hasn't had any front end work done on it, those parts could be over two decades old. If you can afford it, you might consider replacing everything. Here's a kit from Spohn:

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...GM-F-Body.html

JamesC

Tonglebeak

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the helpful reply. Yeah, that was the sticky I looked at. It's an 86 camaro z28.

Even if I don't get everything in that link, at least it gives me a list of parts. My real concern is how to replace everything. I read that jacking it up on the a-arms should be fine, but I just wanted to be sure that was accurate.

Other than that, are any special tools/procedures involved, or is it simply a bolt-off/bolt on procedure?

Thanks.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

IIRC, I put mine on jack stands at the jacking points. Here's some advice from Sofakingdom that's good, I think:

"Easiest way to change the center link, is to change it, the tie rod ends, tie rod adjusting sleeves, and idler arm, all together as one unit. Odds are, if ANY ONE of those things needs changed, then all the rest have the same number of years, the same number of miles, the same number (or not ) of lube jobs, the same amount of wear, and so forth, and therefore are all in about the same condition. Not alot of sense in changing one part today, then next weekend change another, then the next weekend yet another, and so on; all the while suffering with a car that drives terrible and wears tires.

Scribe the frame around the idler arm's shaft first, so you can put the new one back on in the same spot. Take out the 2 idler arm bolts (especially since you now know how easy that is), the 2 tie rod nuts on the spindles, and the center link nut where it hooks to the Pitman arm. Se[arate the 3 joints, and remove all taht stuff as an assembly. Lay it on the ground. Assemble your new parts right next to it, adjusting the tie rods to the same length. Install as a unit. Drive to alignment shop."

You can rent a pickle fork and/or separator from AutoZone (I've never had a lot of luck with the pickle fork, but others seems to do well with them).

A search will find a wealth of info on the above subject.

JamesC

Tonglebeak

iTrader: (1)

Cool, sounds easy enough. Fortunately I already have a pickle fork handy. Sounds like this should be cake. Thanks.

1Aauto

We have this kit too that replaces all of the major components.

1982 - 1992 Chevy Camaro Front Suspension Steering Linkage Kit

Tonglebeak

iTrader: (1)

So I'm in the middle of taking things off. I removed the idler arm bolts, removed the castle nuts for the outer tie rods, and now I have one more problem.

How the hell do I remove the center link from the pitman arm?

There's not enough room to get a socket wrench in, and not enough torque on an adjustable. Plus, I can't tell if there's a cotter pin in it or not. It looks like a castle nut is there on the pitman, but I can't tell if it's locked by a pin or not.

dust3r

iTrader: (1)

I used one if these:

http://toolsandmore.us/oem25297-tierodpuller.aspx

I got mine at autozone.

Tonglebeak

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply, but that's not the problem I'm having. The problem I'm having is accessing the nut that ties the pitman arm to the center link.

dust3r

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried turning the steering wheel all the way to the left?

Tonglebeak

iTrader: (1)

To give you an idea of the kind of day I've had...I could not find my wallet until an hour ago.

That trick worked. Thank you.

dust3r

iTrader: (1)

Haha, glad I could help.

Tonglebeak

iTrader: (1)

Well, I took it in to get aligned today. They said everything was fine and they could align it just fine, but they said the adjusting sleeves would still move after tightening them.

I noticed this as well when I installed them, but it appeared that the sleeve would move with the outer tie rod, and not independent of both tie rods. They acknowledged that this was what was indeed happening, but that it should not be doing that.

Does anyone else have issues like this?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Never herd of that, but to get rid of it, just buy some billet sleeves from wherever. A lot of people make them. The stock ones are a bad design. The try and "hug" the threads. Billet pieces with jam nuts acctually cruch against one another to not let the sleeve come loose.

I think you can get them for like $30 or something like that.

Tonglebeak

iTrader: (1)

Alright, thanks for the idea.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Here's one version:

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...Adjusters.html

JamesC

Tonglebeak

iTrader: (1)

Looks great. I'll have to stick those on the next time my alignment is scheduled.

dunnellon86

iTrader: (1)

i am currently doint the same swap out but cant seem to get te two bolts that go into the center link from the wheels to tighten any tips thanks?

blacksunshine'91

iTrader: (10)

I too, am in the midst of finishing my front suspension rebuild. My problem is getting the upper bolt holding the idler arm to the frame. When I try to loosen the nut, the bolt just spins and I can't see any way to get to the bolt head. Any suggestions/help?

Eldon

dust3r

iTrader: (1)

You can get to it through a slot in the wheel well...(I hope that makes sense).