I need to replace ball joints and control arm bushings. Going with AC Delco, I am looking at about $100 in parts plus labor as I do not have a press to remove and install new bushings. Assuming that I will not have to deal with major rust on the CAs I have now, I can probably easily reach $200 or more getting the stock control arms set up at a shop. Doubt anybody will press new bushings for $10 a piece. As an alternative, I can get a complete tubular control arms with bushings and ball joints already installed for about the same cost:

1982-92 3rd Gen Camaro and G-Body Tubular Lower Control Arm Kit

I just don't know if those are any good compared to stock control arms. I am not looking for a better performance. I am just interested in reducing time/cost to replace the parts.

Any advise?

 

I did mine myself - always cheaper (obviously) if you do your own labor, and you have the tools. Autozone rents ball joint press.

Loaner Ball Joint Press Adapter - Best Replacement Loaner Ball Joint Press Adapters at the Right Price | AutoZone

I actually used the same thing and some large deep sockets to press in the control arm bushing too.

But I am cheap and hate to spend money where I can save it, yet your question is valid. If you can't do the job, or don't have the tools, space, whatnot, there is nothing wrong with an entire replacement lower control arm. Somewhere here on the forum it was mentioned that the lower control arms from the S10 trucks fit the F-bodies. I do remember you have to change out the bump stop.

1990 CHEVROLET S10 PICKUP 4.3L 262cid V6 Control Arm | RockAuto

They seem pretty cheap too.

 

I got my ball joint and bushing press tool from Harbor Freight. It looks like a giant C-clamp. It did the job, but I had to hold down the A-arm against the ground, I used a soft carpeted surface, when I did it. I don’t have a bench vice. If you have a hydraulic press, then it’s pretty easy, Unfortunately, at the time I did the ball joints and bushings, I didn’t have one yet. The original bushings were the hardest to remove for me. Also, you need to stick a short piece of wood between the flanges inside the A-arm so the sides don’t collapse when you press the bushings in. I think they tell you that in the service manual.

 

Thanks for replies. I guess I didn't explain my situation correctly. I don't want to rent or buy any tools. Knowing my experience with LCAs and UCAs on my Toyota, it was way easier to replace the whole assembly then work on a rusty stock CAs. I also don't want to have the car on jack stands for extended period of time. My question is: are the $270 LCAs are any good? Also, if the S10 control arms fit without any modifications, I could go with those. Whatever is cheaper and gives me quicker time to get the parts replaced.

 

Ebay has them for around a $100 a pop (give or take $10-$25 either way) with a 12 month warranty. That’s probably your best bet. You may have to buy from different vendors to get both left and right sides, but that would be the easiest way to do it. If you go to Autozone or similar, you might get Chinese knockoffs. If you have a Napa close by, you could possibly try them. However, I think the prices will be a lot cheaper going through Ebay.

 

Factory control arms not available any more. Some substitute S10 from truck. The price you are getting quoted is a good price. It is a lot of work to do this job and can be dangerous too. Nothing like the easy to replace Toyota control arms. You have big coil springs upfront to deal with - they can get loose and kill you. Make sure your guy knows what he is doing, or he will crush the control arms when attempting to replace the bushings.

 

I've been thinking about this as well. I'd want to put my originals in my blasting cabinet and refinish them, but that takes time and would be impossible to do if I used a shop. If I did them myself I'd have to use a spring compressor which kinda makes me nervous. I've looked at the tubular style aftermarket arms, but they all seem to come with poly bushings which would likely make the ride more harsh. There are used ones on eBay that I could refurbish, but the shipping is insane due to the weight and would almost be as much as the aftermarket ones.

 

I replaced the ball joints and bushings in my stock control arms. I used a ball joint press tool for removal and installation of the ball joint and for installation of the bushings (with a block of wood to keep the control arm from collapsing). The worst part was removing the old bushings (drill bits, torch, chisel & hammer). If I were to do it again, I would just buy a complete new tubular control arm with ball joint and bushings already installed.

 

Do I need to use the spring compressor when removing the CAs or can I just slowly drop the arm using a floor jack until the spring is free (similar to the rear when dropping the tank)?

 

I usually do the floor jack method, but in my case it's been taking out stock springs and installing lowering springs. Stock springs are tall enough that there is a little bit of compression still on them when the control arm is all the way down. You need to pop the bottom of the spring off of the control arm perch using a pry bar while standing to the side (not the approved method, proceed at your own risk). It's not a lot of pressure, but you do need to be careful or you will get hurt. Reinstalling using the floor jack method only works with lowering springs since they are shorter. With stock springs, you'll likely need to use a compressor.

 

Dont do what this guy did at 24:13 He almost lost a foot, and a kneecap.

(I apologize if he's in this forum)

 

Yeah, he got lucky. Don't forget to put the jack under the control arm before removing the strut nut!

I would also leave the strut/knuckle/brakes in place and pop the lower ball joint (with the floor jack under the control arm =).

 

The CA's you listed from speedway look to be of good quality but as the OP said they have the urethane bushings which can squeak as well as stiffen the ride. Please stay away from that Rock Auto crap. $30 CA complete? Now that's a quality part! Those other brands from RA aren't much better. Remember your life rides on this particular part so don't Chinese this one. Sometimes the easiest way is not the safest way and I don't know about you but I would not cut corners on the suspension to save a couple $$ and some time, this is not the part for that. Do as much as you can your self (safely) to save some money but do the job right one time with quality parts, this is in the end IS cheapest route. My

 

Try to source the CA's from a scrapyard and then there is no shipping. I think 4th gens are the same part also but I could be wrong on that. Also from the research I did the Del-A-Lum bushings work the best for the front control arms.

 

The ones I've called in my area say they crush anything older than a 2000.

 

Dude got SUPER lucky!

 

Just checked. Go on EBay and search for (Mevotech) front lower control arms for Camaro. They look like OEM quality. $114.95 with a 5 year/60k mile limited warranty.

 

Unless you have (shorter) lowering springs, you will need still the spring compressor for safety to reduce the tension on the spring when you drop the LCA. When you install the new LCAs, you will definitely need the spring compressor to bolt the LCA back on. Don’t try to do it without one. The pressure from the spring won’t let you bolt everything back up again.

 

I think that's for 2nd Gen.

 

Darn, I didn’t notice that. I know Hawks sells them for $100 a pair used. Just clean them up, paint them, and put some new ball joints and bushings in. That might be the best way to go unless he wants to clean up his old ones.