Spd-Kilz

Hey folks...first off Merry Christmas to my ThirdGen Brothers and Sisters!

I'm in the process of putting together the parts list to rebuild the front end on my 87 IROC-Z which has ~100,000 miles on it. I am going overboard as I want to do it once and do it right.

Here is the list of parts I've made up so far. Everything is going to be OEM style, using Moog/KYB parts where possible.

Inner & Outer Tie Rods w/ new sleeves
Upper & Lower Ball Joints
Idler Arm
Drag Link
KYB Front Struts w/ new strut mounts
Front Springs
Front Control Arm Bushings
Aftermarket sway bar w/ new end links & bushing.

Please let me know if there is anything I'm missing, or should consider changing at the same time.

Thanks,
Chris

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...GM-F-Body.html

Just about all you need is above.

As far as OEM style goes, I'd get some solid bearing upper strut mounts rather than the stock rubber mounts. Ditto on the Global West Del-Alum front arm bushings instead of stock rubber.

Get a goold alignment too. You'll get the best of all worlds. Better handling, better high speed stability, and longer tire life. The stock factory alignment specs are terrible for our cars.



Don't forget to add a Wonderbar from TDS.

Spd-Kilz

I'm pretty clueless when it comes to this stuff, what would be the advantage of going with the solid mounts/bushing? To me (with my limited knowledge) that seems that would make the ride worse...especially around town? Please school me.

I am looking to replace the crappy ride, my damn teeth near fall out driving around town. On the highway it's fine, but in town it's brutal. My 83 Z28 w/ 20,000 miles feels like a Cadillac compared to the IROC.

I should point out, my cars lead a pretty basic life. Once or twice a week to and from car shows and cruise nights. No racing, no track, just puttering around town a bit.

Will definately be getting a good alignment done, there is another shop in town that does them for all the track guys with their Vettes, Vipers, Porsches, BMWs etc.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The solid mounts and bushings will transmit a little more Noise, Harshness and Vibration to the chassis. If I were looking to compromise on the side of 'less harsh', I'd stick with the OEM style mounts and rubber bushings.

A street driven vehicle is always a compromise between many different factors - handling, comfort, noise, tire wear, etc.- and as such, at best a subjective experience.

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

Two main differences:

1) They allow a little bit more aggressive alignment settings. The stock mounts are only adjustable so far.

2) The top of your strut is mushy when it's being pressed against the stock rubber bushing. The solid bearing designs allow the struts to get the maximum absorption and function during their compression and rebound.

I'm glad you mentioned that your car is going to be mostly for cruising. In that case, you can probably stick with the stock rubber bushing upper strut mounts. It's just when I see people come in here and want to rebuild EVERYTHING, they usually tend to want to upgrade this a little bit and upgrade that a little bit.

With the stock upper strut mounts, you should still be able to get some negative camber numbers. -0.3 to -0.5 should be do'able. But the stock positive camber numbers are just a bad idea. Positive camber = extreme outer tire wear.


EDIT: Don't bother getting the Wonderbar. My mistake. Your car will already have one. IROC-Z cars were the only models that came from the factory with them.

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Depending on the brand of mount, you may pay around $140 or so for a pair (yes, there are cheaper versions) of OE replacements. The Founders after market version is only $30 or so more.

I've run both Spohn and Founders and noticed no appreciable increase in noise from an new OE type. I'd recommend after market for the alignment possibilities, if nothing else. That said, if you're satisfied with OE alignment specs, try the following site for options:

http://www.rockauto.com/

JamesC