Subframe connectors
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Subframe connectors
I finally got my subframe connectors ordered. I've been told by many that the best mod that can be done to a thirdgen is subframe connectors. I'm excited to get mine and drag my feet about getting them installed.
The following users liked this post:
nittro (09-10-2020)
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: Subframe connectors
I ordered jegs bolt on ( I will weld also) house brand. they have several reviews with good results. the only consistent complaint is that one of the bolt holes doesn't line up. i emailed with jegs and they said that the jig had been updated and the holes should all be correct now. im going into it planning to slot the hole. if it turns out my set is off the new jig and I don't need to score.
#4
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Re: Subframe connectors
I ordered jegs bolt on ( I will weld also) house brand. they have several reviews with good results. the only consistent complaint is that one of the bolt holes doesn't line up. i emailed with jegs and they said that the jig had been updated and the holes should all be correct now. im going into it planning to slot the hole. if it turns out my set is off the new jig and I don't need to score.
Trending Topics
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: Subframe connectors
install complete. I have to push the driver side carpet back down in install the sill plates and shes ready to test drive. at this point I have them bolted not welded.. the fit and finish was good. I had two issues. 1) the hole to nowhere went to nowhere. the holes is useless. 2) the passenger side front bracket didn't sit flush to the floor. I was able to give it a slight bending and made it work fine. the passenger side takes longer because you have to deal with the exhaust right at the cat. there are four mounting holes at the front. 3 are easy to reach and the fourth is under the exhaust pipe. you aren't drilling that one without removing the y-pipe. that is unless you have a tape measure. I measured center to center with the hole next to it and drilled it from the top. no worries. the driver side slides in no problem. took about an hour to do the passenger side and 30minutes or so to do driver. they look good tucked up there. I will eventually weld them but I doubt it will be anytime soon. I used a libral amount of red thread lock. it aint going anywhere
The following users liked this post:
DynoDave43 (06-03-2020)
#11
Supreme Member
iTrader: (167)
Re: Subframe connectors
I installed my first pair of Jegsters sometime around 96'. The car was a year-round daily driver till about Y2K and I drove it literally everywhere. ( On the Beach, Hunting trails, fire-access roads, Heck; just about any road in RI is a hazard ! ) They were bolted in, not welded; and boy-Oh-Boy did I hear it from the "peanut gallery" over how bolt in SFC were crap. Of all the SFC's I've seen installed the Jegsters allow for more room on the pass side near the Y-Pipe bend under the passenger floor. I've got Dyno Don's custom headers & Y pipe installed and had NO PROBLEM at all with clearance around the Y-pipe.
After about a dozen years I removed them and installed a new pair. The only reason for the new pair was because the original set was well-used, had rusted over, and I found a new set cheap from a local seller. When I pulled the original set off I found ZERO bolt-hole elongation problems. This was a real concern to me then because it was all I heard about from guys that swore they were worthless because I didn't weld them in and warned that I should expect the floors to get ripped apart.
I never bothered with the extra bolt hole; and I probably never will.
** AS WITH ANY SFC : They should only be FINAL installed when the car is on the ground, or: the suspension is somehow fully "loaded". They should NOT be final mounted on a car that's on jack-stands or on a Lift. This is easy to accomplish with the Jegsters because they can get bolted in the rear then the front can be lifted into place to mark the holes, then the front can get lifted to drill the holes & then set back on the ground to install the front bolts. The process isn't quite as easy with weld-in only SFCs.
Congrats Evilokc : You just made a HUGE improvement to your Thirdgen ! Have you taken your ride on a "spirited drive" down a long, twisty road yet ???
After about a dozen years I removed them and installed a new pair. The only reason for the new pair was because the original set was well-used, had rusted over, and I found a new set cheap from a local seller. When I pulled the original set off I found ZERO bolt-hole elongation problems. This was a real concern to me then because it was all I heard about from guys that swore they were worthless because I didn't weld them in and warned that I should expect the floors to get ripped apart.
I never bothered with the extra bolt hole; and I probably never will.
** AS WITH ANY SFC : They should only be FINAL installed when the car is on the ground, or: the suspension is somehow fully "loaded". They should NOT be final mounted on a car that's on jack-stands or on a Lift. This is easy to accomplish with the Jegsters because they can get bolted in the rear then the front can be lifted into place to mark the holes, then the front can get lifted to drill the holes & then set back on the ground to install the front bolts. The process isn't quite as easy with weld-in only SFCs.
Congrats Evilokc : You just made a HUGE improvement to your Thirdgen ! Have you taken your ride on a "spirited drive" down a long, twisty road yet ???
The following 3 users liked this post by John in RI:
#13
Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Topsfield, Ma USA
Posts: 181
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: 3.8 Turbo
Transmission: 200R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Subframe connectors
install complete. I have to push the driver side carpet back down in install the sill plates and shes ready to test drive. at this point I have them bolted not welded.. the fit and finish was good. I had two issues. 1) the hole to nowhere went to nowhere. the holes is useless. 2) the passenger side front bracket didn't sit flush to the floor. I was able to give it a slight bending and made it work fine. the passenger side takes longer because you have to deal with the exhaust right at the cat. there are four mounting holes at the front. 3 are easy to reach and the fourth is under the exhaust pipe. you aren't drilling that one without removing the y-pipe. that is unless you have a tape measure. I measured center to center with the hole next to it and drilled it from the top. no worries. the driver side slides in no problem. took about an hour to do the passenger side and 30minutes or so to do driver. they look good tucked up there. I will eventually weld them but I doubt it will be anytime soon. I used a libral amount of red thread lock. it aint going anywhere
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: Subframe connectors
I've only had them on for a week but here is what I've noticed. all of the rattles in my dash are gone. my doors still rattle a little (much less) but that's because most of the felt and rubber is gone. the doors open and close much easier. the car does feel more solid. it feels like it handles corners easier as well. I highly recommend these. they were easy to put in and made a marked difference.
#15
Member
iTrader: (3)
Re: Subframe connectors
I did the same thing on the my previous car with Jegs subframe connectors. Didn't weld them. Car ran 11.7's. Tried out a couple parking lot autocross sessions. Zero elongation, no bolt stretch and warpage everyone swore up and down would happen if I continued to drive it hard. Even used the Jegs subframe connectors as jack points. LOL Maybe the other bolt-in subframe connectors stretch the bolt holes but I can't really speak for those. I haven't had anyone show me bolt elongation from bolt in subframe connectors either. Will be installing Jegs subframe connectors on my current IROC.
I installed my first pair of Jegsters sometime around 96'. The car was a year-round daily driver till about Y2K and I drove it literally everywhere. ( On the Beach, Hunting trails, fire-access roads, Heck; just about any road in RI is a hazard ! ) They were bolted in, not welded; and boy-Oh-Boy did I hear it from the "peanut gallery" over how bolt in SFC were crap. Of all the SFC's I've seen installed the Jegsters allow for more room on the pass side near the Y-Pipe bend under the passenger floor. I've got Dyno Don's custom headers & Y pipe installed and had NO PROBLEM at all with clearance around the Y-pipe.
After about a dozen years I removed them and installed a new pair. The only reason for the new pair was because the original set was well-used, had rusted over, and I found a new set cheap from a local seller. When I pulled the original set off I found ZERO bolt-hole elongation problems. This was a real concern to me then because it was all I heard about from guys that swore they were worthless because I didn't weld them in and warned that I should expect the floors to get ripped apart.
I never bothered with the extra bolt hole; and I probably never will.
** AS WITH ANY SFC : They should only be FINAL installed when the car is on the ground, or: the suspension is somehow fully "loaded". They should NOT be final mounted on a car that's on jack-stands or on a Lift. This is easy to accomplish with the Jegsters because they can get bolted in the rear then the front can be lifted into place to mark the holes, then the front can get lifted to drill the holes & then set back on the ground to install the front bolts. The process isn't quite as easy with weld-in only SFCs.
Congrats Evilokc : You just made a HUGE improvement to your Thirdgen ! Have you taken your ride on a "spirited drive" down a long, twisty road yet ???
After about a dozen years I removed them and installed a new pair. The only reason for the new pair was because the original set was well-used, had rusted over, and I found a new set cheap from a local seller. When I pulled the original set off I found ZERO bolt-hole elongation problems. This was a real concern to me then because it was all I heard about from guys that swore they were worthless because I didn't weld them in and warned that I should expect the floors to get ripped apart.
I never bothered with the extra bolt hole; and I probably never will.
** AS WITH ANY SFC : They should only be FINAL installed when the car is on the ground, or: the suspension is somehow fully "loaded". They should NOT be final mounted on a car that's on jack-stands or on a Lift. This is easy to accomplish with the Jegsters because they can get bolted in the rear then the front can be lifted into place to mark the holes, then the front can get lifted to drill the holes & then set back on the ground to install the front bolts. The process isn't quite as easy with weld-in only SFCs.
Congrats Evilokc : You just made a HUGE improvement to your Thirdgen ! Have you taken your ride on a "spirited drive" down a long, twisty road yet ???
Last edited by FAST LiFE; 06-10-2020 at 04:33 PM.
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: SW Missouri
Posts: 721
Received 168 Likes
on
133 Posts
Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: sp357
Transmission: T-5
Re: Subframe connectors
I have the Jegs SFC's on my car and like them so far. I had planned on welding them in eventually, but after reading John's experience I might just skip it.
The following 2 users liked this post by WildCard600:
Fullmonte77 (06-16-2020), sleeper84 (06-15-2020)
#20
Member
iTrader: (3)
Re: Subframe connectors
I had a set of UMI ones ready to go into my car. Just needed to find time to get my cousin to weld them in. After reading this thread I sold them and will be buying the Jegs ones. I'm a strictly UMI guy cause I'm friends with the owner and live like 10 miles from their shop but the bolt in is something i can do myself in the driveway.
The following users liked this post:
WildCard600 (06-16-2020)
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: Subframe connectors
You can't see them from the side at all. you can see the rubber strip that runs under the side of the car but not the connector
Last edited by Evilokc; 07-01-2020 at 08:16 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Evilokc:
George Klass (07-01-2020), WildCard600 (07-03-2020)
The following users liked this post:
George Klass (07-11-2020)
#25
Junior Member
Re: Subframe connectors
I’ll upload pictures soon
Last edited by nittro; 09-10-2020 at 08:56 PM.
#26
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,112
Received 1,686 Likes
on
1,281 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Subframe connectors
If you drive the car on the street, EVER, DON'T put in ladder bars. They are strictly for strip-only cars.
For the rear end to deflect a different amount on one side than the other, such as when going over bumps, driving over uneven ground like driveway ramps, or even going around corners, SOMETHING has to bend. It's the only way it can happen. Either the bars themselves, or the rear end housing (it'll break the plug welds if it's built that way like a stock one), or the vehicle chassis. That's what makes them SO GOOD at drag strips: they FORCE the car to stay level, no matter what. But that turns into a liability on the street.
For the rear end to deflect a different amount on one side than the other, such as when going over bumps, driving over uneven ground like driveway ramps, or even going around corners, SOMETHING has to bend. It's the only way it can happen. Either the bars themselves, or the rear end housing (it'll break the plug welds if it's built that way like a stock one), or the vehicle chassis. That's what makes them SO GOOD at drag strips: they FORCE the car to stay level, no matter what. But that turns into a liability on the street.
The following 2 users liked this post by sofakingdom:
Carlos89 (10-06-2020), WildCard600 (09-11-2020)
#27
Junior Member
Re: Subframe connectors
Just for anyone who is still curious about Jegs SFC. I bought a set after seeing this thread, took probably 10 hours in total to do with the help of my dad and brother. The only problems I had during install were not due to the connectors but rather things not lining up on my suspension (the lower control arms). Took the car out and I could definitely feel the difference. Less shaking, less rattles, car handles much better. I don't think I'll weld mine in unless I really see the need but for now they've been awesome!
The following 3 users liked this post by The Real Mr.Blu:
The following users liked this post:
WildCard600 (10-03-2020)
#31
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,911
Received 176 Likes
on
135 Posts
Car: 90 Formula / T-tops
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: MD8
Re: Subframe connectors
Thanks for the post. JEGS must be having troubles keeping up with orders for these LOL !
Are you guys finding the rear holes lining up good so no drilling required back there? It appears the driver side front holes all go thru the floor board, what about the passenger side, it looks different?
Are you guys finding the rear holes lining up good so no drilling required back there? It appears the driver side front holes all go thru the floor board, what about the passenger side, it looks different?
#32
Junior Member
Re: Subframe connectors
Thanks for the post. JEGS must be having troubles keeping up with orders for these LOL !
Are you guys finding the rear holes lining up good so no drilling required back there? It appears the driver side front holes all go thru the floor board, what about the passenger side, it looks different?
Are you guys finding the rear holes lining up good so no drilling required back there? It appears the driver side front holes all go thru the floor board, what about the passenger side, it looks different?
The following users liked this post:
LiquidBlue (10-04-2020)
#33
Junior Member
Re: Subframe connectors
Thanks for the post. JEGS must be having troubles keeping up with orders for these LOL !
Are you guys finding the rear holes lining up good so no drilling required back there? It appears the driver side front holes all go thru the floor board, what about the passenger side, it looks different?
Are you guys finding the rear holes lining up good so no drilling required back there? It appears the driver side front holes all go thru the floor board, what about the passenger side, it looks different?
The following 3 users liked this post by The Real Mr.Blu:
#36
Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 170
Received 41 Likes
on
29 Posts
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0 LG4 4BBL
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Subframe connectors
I also have the Jegs brand. Bolted in. Only install issue I had was the FOUR inch y-pipe the PO installed gave me zero clearance on the pass. side. Took some rerouting and a small reduction in diameter (3 inch tubing) and the SFC went in. Had no problems with holes lining up honestly. Overall, a very satisfying difference over rough roads.
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The following 2 users liked this post by Evilokc:
Carlos89 (10-06-2020), WildCard600 (10-06-2020)
#39
Member
iTrader: (3)
Re: Subframe connectors
Just so I'm clear, do the bolt-in SFC's from Jegs use existing bolt holes?
I have zero interest in welding anything to my car and I'm not keen on the idea of drilling new holes in the underside of my car either. If these SFC's are easily removeable and the car can be returned to original condition I'm very interested...
I have zero interest in welding anything to my car and I'm not keen on the idea of drilling new holes in the underside of my car either. If these SFC's are easily removeable and the car can be returned to original condition I'm very interested...
#40
Member
iTrader: (3)
Re: Subframe connectors
Just so I'm clear, do the bolt-in SFC's from Jegs use existing bolt holes?
I have zero interest in welding anything to my car and I'm not keen on the idea of drilling new holes in the underside of my car either. If these SFC's are easily removeable and the car can be returned to original condition I'm very interested...
I have zero interest in welding anything to my car and I'm not keen on the idea of drilling new holes in the underside of my car either. If these SFC's are easily removeable and the car can be returned to original condition I'm very interested...
#41
Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 170
Received 41 Likes
on
29 Posts
Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0 LG4 4BBL
Transmission: T5 5-Speed
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Subframe connectors
#42
Supreme Member
The following 3 users liked this post by Fullmonte77:
The following users liked this post:
WildCard600 (10-10-2020)
#45
Junior Member
Re: Subframe connectors
This thread is really exciting, since my car is in works !
I planned to order both UMI outer 2400 SFCs and Alston's inner 102411s. As well as UMI Panhard bar relocation kit to make room for true-duals.
My car is a T-Top 1983, planned to receive a 383 or 400SBC.
Would these Jegsters act better ? Or maybe SW ,
Thx
I planned to order both UMI outer 2400 SFCs and Alston's inner 102411s. As well as UMI Panhard bar relocation kit to make room for true-duals.
My car is a T-Top 1983, planned to receive a 383 or 400SBC.
Would these Jegsters act better ? Or maybe SW ,
Thx
Last edited by 70's iron; 11-22-2020 at 12:01 PM.
#46
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Re: Subframe connectors
This thread is really exciting, since my car is in works !
I planned to order both UMI outer 2400 SFCs and Alston's inner 102411s. As well as UMI Panhard bar relocation kit to make room for true-duals.
My car is a T-Top 1983, planned to receive a 383 or 400SBC.
Would these Jegsters act better ? Or maybe SW ,
Thx
I planned to order both UMI outer 2400 SFCs and Alston's inner 102411s. As well as UMI Panhard bar relocation kit to make room for true-duals.
My car is a T-Top 1983, planned to receive a 383 or 400SBC.
Would these Jegsters act better ? Or maybe SW ,
Thx
#47
Junior Member
Re: Subframe connectors
Thanks for the info.
My car has true-duals since 2008, based on the Dynomax kit. It has been a pain to settle, an doesn't give me great satisfaction. The guy who did the job event bent my Panhard bar to make enough room. Stupid ! That's why I'm buying chassis parts now.
Keep in mind that I'm in Europe, no cat are required. Luckily, because I have no more mufflers, except a pair of Glasspacks out back. Yep, my car is loud, way too loud, and finally tacky. But I won't mind paying a professionnal exhaust shop to create something better.
As soon as there are improvements, I post pictures !
My car has true-duals since 2008, based on the Dynomax kit. It has been a pain to settle, an doesn't give me great satisfaction. The guy who did the job event bent my Panhard bar to make enough room. Stupid ! That's why I'm buying chassis parts now.
Keep in mind that I'm in Europe, no cat are required. Luckily, because I have no more mufflers, except a pair of Glasspacks out back. Yep, my car is loud, way too loud, and finally tacky. But I won't mind paying a professionnal exhaust shop to create something better.
As soon as there are improvements, I post pictures !
#48
Re: Subframe connectors
Mine is a C&C T top car. I installed Alston inners for their light weight. Only adds 20lbs to the car. My car still creaks and rattles as you would expect from a GM car of that era, but they helped tighten things up a bit.
You can especially tell when going over a curb with one front tire. The car no longer twists :-)
You can especially tell when going over a curb with one front tire. The car no longer twists :-)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Dholland17
North East Region
5
06-30-2020 12:47 PM