I finally got my subframe connectors ordered. I've been told by many that the best mod that can be done to a thirdgen is subframe connectors. I'm excited to get mine and drag my feet about getting them installed.

 

What kind did you get? Maybe you can take photos of the install.

 

I ordered jegs bolt on ( I will weld also) house brand. they have several reviews with good results. the only consistent complaint is that one of the bolt holes doesn't line up. i emailed with jegs and they said that the jig had been updated and the holes should all be correct now. im going into it planning to slot the hole. if it turns out my set is off the new jig and I don't need to score.

 

i have those on my 91. i didnt have to mess with any of the holes and they are about 2 years old.

 

Do you like them? Could you tell a difference? My 91 rattles...a lot

 

yeah i love them. big improvement. stopped all my rattles in my car that is t-tops.

 

I'm excited about these

 

Did you weld yours as well, or just bolt them in? (I have no issues with bolt-ins, BTW).

 

install complete. I have to push the driver side carpet back down in install the sill plates and shes ready to test drive. at this point I have them bolted not welded.. the fit and finish was good. I had two issues. 1) the hole to nowhere went to nowhere. the holes is useless. 2) the passenger side front bracket didn't sit flush to the floor. I was able to give it a slight bending and made it work fine. the passenger side takes longer because you have to deal with the exhaust right at the cat. there are four mounting holes at the front. 3 are easy to reach and the fourth is under the exhaust pipe. you aren't drilling that one without removing the y-pipe. that is unless you have a tape measure. I measured center to center with the hole next to it and drilled it from the top. no worries. the driver side slides in no problem. took about an hour to do the passenger side and 30minutes or so to do driver. they look good tucked up there. I will eventually weld them but I doubt it will be anytime soon. I used a libral amount of red thread lock. it aint going anywhere

 

Excellent. Let us know how they work for you when you get to drive it.

 

I installed my first pair of Jegsters sometime around 96'. The car was a year-round daily driver till about Y2K and I drove it literally everywhere. ( On the Beach, Hunting trails, fire-access roads, Heck; just about any road in RI is a hazard ! ) They were bolted in, not welded; and boy-Oh-Boy did I hear it from the "peanut gallery" over how bolt in SFC were crap. Of all the SFC's I've seen installed the Jegsters allow for more room on the pass side near the Y-Pipe bend under the passenger floor. I've got Dyno Don's custom headers & Y pipe installed and had NO PROBLEM at all with clearance around the Y-pipe.



After about a dozen years I removed them and installed a new pair. The only reason for the new pair was because the original set was well-used, had rusted over, and I found a new set cheap from a local seller. When I pulled the original set off I found ZERO bolt-hole elongation problems. This was a real concern to me then because it was all I heard about from guys that swore they were worthless because I didn't weld them in and warned that I should expect the floors to get ripped apart.



I never bothered with the extra bolt hole; and I probably never will.

** AS WITH ANY SFC : They should only be FINAL installed when the car is on the ground, or: the suspension is somehow fully "loaded". They should NOT be final mounted on a car that's on jack-stands or on a Lift. This is easy to accomplish with the Jegsters because they can get bolted in the rear then the front can be lifted into place to mark the holes, then the front can get lifted to drill the holes & then set back on the ground to install the front bolts. The process isn't quite as easy with weld-in only SFCs.

Congrats Evilokc : You just made a HUGE improvement to your Thirdgen ! Have you taken your ride on a "spirited drive" down a long, twisty road yet ???

 

 

How do they feel now? Big difference? any pics from outside of the car in the pic above from John in RI they look visible from the outside of the car.

 

I've only had them on for a week but here is what I've noticed. all of the rattles in my dash are gone. my doors still rattle a little (much less) but that's because most of the felt and rubber is gone. the doors open and close much easier. the car does feel more solid. it feels like it handles corners easier as well. I highly recommend these. they were easy to put in and made a marked difference.

 

I did the same thing on the my previous car with Jegs subframe connectors. Didn't weld them. Car ran 11.7's. Tried out a couple parking lot autocross sessions. Zero elongation, no bolt stretch and warpage everyone swore up and down would happen if I continued to drive it hard. Even used the Jegs subframe connectors as jack points. LOL Maybe the other bolt-in subframe connectors stretch the bolt holes but I can't really speak for those. I haven't had anyone show me bolt elongation from bolt in subframe connectors either. Will be installing Jegs subframe connectors on my current IROC.

 

Glad I found this. I'm getting ready to start resurrecting my 89 t-top and have wanted to do sfcs for a while now.

 

They were easy to install. Straight forward and totally worth it

 

I have the Jegs SFC's on my car and like them so far. I had planned on welding them in eventually, but after reading John's experience I might just skip it.

 

i always planned on welding them in but never got around to it. so right now they are just bolted in.

 

I had a set of UMI ones ready to go into my car. Just needed to find time to get my cousin to weld them in. After reading this thread I sold them and will be buying the Jegs ones. I'm a strictly UMI guy cause I'm friends with the owner and live like 10 miles from their shop but the bolt in is something i can do myself in the driveway.

 

Just ordered the Jegs ones this morning. Hope to have them installed before an autocross event the end of July.

 

How low are they when looking at the car from the side. Anyone have a pic or 2?

 

You can't see them from the side at all. you can see the rubber strip that runs under the side of the car but not the connector

 

I got my Jegs SFC's put on today. Pretty easy install. Would have been easier had I had a lift but did it in the driveway. The fit is pretty good and only issue I had was wedging it between the exhaust and the body. Nothing a hammer couldn't fix!

 

I ordered the kegs bolt in ones also I’m going to install them this weekend I have been collecting parts for my firebird build that I’m in the middle of I’m replacing the rear and torque arm as I’m installing a 8.8 with 4:10 gears and 31 spline axles has anyone installed ladder bars and removed the torque arm
I’ll upload pictures soon

 

If you drive the car on the street, EVER, DON'T put in ladder bars. They are strictly for strip-only cars.

For the rear end to deflect a different amount on one side than the other, such as when going over bumps, driving over uneven ground like driveway ramps, or even going around corners, SOMETHING has to bend. It's the only way it can happen. Either the bars themselves, or the rear end housing (it'll break the plug welds if it's built that way like a stock one), or the vehicle chassis. That's what makes them SO GOOD at drag strips: they FORCE the car to stay level, no matter what. But that turns into a liability on the street.

 

Just for anyone who is still curious about Jegs SFC. I bought a set after seeing this thread, took probably 10 hours in total to do with the help of my dad and brother. The only problems I had during install were not due to the connectors but rather things not lining up on my suspension (the lower control arms). Took the car out and I could definitely feel the difference. Less shaking, less rattles, car handles much better. I don't think I'll weld mine in unless I really see the need but for now they've been awesome!

 

Can we get a link to these please? thanks!

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/6471...5L+%2F+305+%29

 

Thanks!

 

Thanks for the post. JEGS must be having troubles keeping up with orders for these LOL !

Are you guys finding the rear holes lining up good so no drilling required back there? It appears the driver side front holes all go thru the floor board, what about the passenger side, it looks different?

 

I just got my jegs frame connectors installed and they fit very well the only problem I have with the install was where someone used a jack on the side of the car to jack it up with a hammer and some time it all worked out .i was concerned about the passenger side but when I looked when you drill you drill through the floor and the main plate where the frame is after I bolted mine in I just put a little weld for added protection

 

So for me the problem was not actually lining up the rear hole, that is easy and I had no issue with that, but rather that my rear control arms would not line up with the hole to put the bolt through and it required someone prying the control arm while I installed the rear hole to get it done (but then again my control arms are probably original and old) so it was more of a car issue than a SFC issue. All the holes go through the floorboard, you pull back the carpet as to not drill through it. We found it was easier to drill into the car from the bottom to get accurate holes then from the interior use one of those drill bits where it goes in stages to get the correct size for the bolts. On the passenger side the exhaust was in the way at that hard bend before the catalytic converter. You can either 1. unbolt the exhaust and drop it down or 2. cut it out in order to get the clearance to fit the connector in the corner. My exhaust clamps were too far gone to unbolt so I cut that bend out and am currently trying to fix some other things before I can go get it welded back on. When we installed the passenger side that arm that extends out was not sitting flush but when you start bolting it all together we got it to sit flat. When we drilled we jacked the arm up so it was flush enough that we could drill somewhat accurately. Also, if your pinch welds are bent you will probably have to straighten them out as it is a bit of a tight squeeze for the SFC to sit flush. Man, now that I typed this all out it wasn't as easy as I remember lol. This would've been much easier with a lift but it is doable with ramps and will probably take less time than it took me simply because I'm a novice at working on cars.

 

Why did you cross this post out? I thought you were happy with them?

 

Jets site is down, do these fit my 1989 IROC Z CONVERTIBLE?

 

I also have the Jegs brand. Bolted in. Only install issue I had was the FOUR inch y-pipe the PO installed gave me zero clearance on the pass. side. Took some rerouting and a small reduction in diameter (3 inch tubing) and the SFC went in. Had no problems with holes lining up honestly. Overall, a very satisfying difference over rough roads.

 

i have no idea how that got crossed out. i love mine. i have had zero issues. should have done this years ago.

 

Same here. It was the first mod I should have done.

 

Just so I'm clear, do the bolt-in SFC's from Jegs use existing bolt holes?

I have zero interest in welding anything to my car and I'm not keen on the idea of drilling new holes in the underside of my car either. If these SFC's are easily removeable and the car can be returned to original condition I'm very interested...

 

They use existing holes where the rear lower control arm mounts. You must drill the holes through the floor in the front and bolt it there. No welding required at all! And they could be removed if you wanted but would have to either weld the holes you drilled or put bolts in those holes.

 

I second what Fullmonte77 just said above. That's what I (well my buddy who's the drill guy) had to do. But it's very straightforward. AND well worth the work.

 

What are they actually bolting to, once drilled through the floor? Just the pan?

 

Yes just the pan. Some people say the holes elongate others have had no issues. Some people will weld them in too. Big thing I guess is your floors need to be in really good shape or it's a complete waste of time and money.

 

I've ran these in my previous IROC with no bolt elongation issues. I haven't had of anyone actually show me that issue yet either.

 

This thread is really exciting, since my car is in works !

I planned to order both UMI outer 2400 SFCs and Alston's inner 102411s. As well as UMI Panhard bar relocation kit to make room for true-duals.

My car is a T-Top 1983, planned to receive a 383 or 400SBC.

Would these Jegsters act better ? Or maybe SW ,

Thx

 

ive had these on the car a while now and i like them. i do want to add some inners since i will be running about 500hp once my motor is finished. i think im going to build my own inners though. the reason im replying to you is about the true duals. do a good search before you get to deep into setting them up. very few people have been able to fit a true dual exhaust under a third gen. there is no room. it has been done but almost everyone who attempted it failed.

 

Thanks for the info.

My car has true-duals since 2008, based on the Dynomax kit. It has been a pain to settle, an doesn't give me great satisfaction. The guy who did the job event bent my Panhard bar to make enough room. Stupid ! That's why I'm buying chassis parts now.

Keep in mind that I'm in Europe, no cat are required. Luckily, because I have no more mufflers, except a pair of Glasspacks out back. Yep, my car is loud, way too loud, and finally tacky. But I won't mind paying a professionnal exhaust shop to create something better.

As soon as there are improvements, I post pictures !

 

Mine is a C&C T top car. I installed Alston inners for their light weight. Only adds 20lbs to the car. My car still creaks and rattles as you would expect from a GM car of that era, but they helped tighten things up a bit.

You can especially tell when going over a curb with one front tire. The car no longer twists :-)