How do I know this is really an Lt1 cam?
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How do I know this is really an Lt1 cam?
alright i got a supposid Lt1 cam, how can i make sure its really an lt1 cam, this is what i made out to be on the cam itself.
gmpt-bg46-242
gmpt-bg46-242
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
As far as I can tell, it would be an LT1 cam - from '95 - '97 with aluminum heads. I based this from the following page I found - read the cam section under:
"1995-’97 350 WITH ALUMINUM HEADS " at link below:
http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm
"1995-’97 350 WITH ALUMINUM HEADS " at link below:
http://www.automotiverebuilder.com/ar/ar99928.htm
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: Carbed 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42 posi
Heads I know very little about. I happened to get lucky - the '85 parts car I bought (just for the doors) just happened to have #416 heads on it. I understand from many on here that they are nice heads, when ported/polished almost as good as Vortech's. So, although I've never done it before - I'm getting bits and grinder this week and giving it a whirl. I had 'em cleaned and checked at shop - not too much looks like it needs done to them - and the shop will bore them for 1.94 valves when I get done grinding. I figure anything I do to them (short of hitting a water jacket) will be better than nothing - I can see a few places in there (ridges, bumps, and such) that won't hurt to be smoothed out some. Scary part to me is attempting to unshroud the valves a bit, but patience sounds like the trick.
Maybe being scared is good - keeps me from grinding too much!
I'll add 1.94 valves ($75 valves, $50 boring), roller tip rockers ($100), new springs ($25), pushrods ($18), and let the shop do a nice valve job ($150). I'm thinking of skipping screw-in studs - LT1 cam not over .500 lift with 1.6 rockers, and I can use the money elsewhere. Total for decent heads - $420 for the pair - since I didn't really pay anything for the heads.
Maybe being scared is good - keeps me from grinding too much!
I'll add 1.94 valves ($75 valves, $50 boring), roller tip rockers ($100), new springs ($25), pushrods ($18), and let the shop do a nice valve job ($150). I'm thinking of skipping screw-in studs - LT1 cam not over .500 lift with 1.6 rockers, and I can use the money elsewhere. Total for decent heads - $420 for the pair - since I didn't really pay anything for the heads.
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