TBIThrottle Body Injection discussion and questions. L03/CFI tech and other performance enhancements.
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I have recently been figuring out problems in my swap 1 by 1. My latest problem happened when I tried to adjust the timing. I have an MSD disty. The motor is an 88 305 tbi. Its a stock rebuild except for a Comp RV cam. I had the timing set to about 6 degrees, but it wouldnt stay at idle. It would for about 3-4 minutes, and idled great, but then it would randomly die. So i figured I would try to advance the timing a bit and see what happened. When I loosened the disty, I turned it too much and couldnt get it to fire up. Now the only way I can get it to fire is when its turned way out of the way, and the only timing I can really get is about 17-19 degrees, without it dieing. Even when I get the engine to TDC #1, and the cap/rotor/wires set to #1, it wont even start until I crank the disty far counterclockwise. I have tried moving the disty back and forth teeth, even tried changing wire placement on the cap... And nothing, so far, has worked.
If anyone could even send me pictures of your stock or aftermarket disty/wires in the car, that would be great, as I cant even remember if the square part on the cap is supposed to be facing drivers side, or passenger side. I have to drive this thing in the next couple days as im moving, and driving it like this isnt very healthy, or safe.
I have the right timing order, and have gone back to step one (tdc compression/rotor facing general #1 area/ proper firing/wiring order) about 3-4 times. Ive even swapped out my dizzy with the stock one AND tried brand new ign module in it... nothin seems to work. I finally had enough and took it to a mechanic down the street from me, but they have had it for about a week now, and i havent heard back from them yet which cant be a good sign. I am beginning to think maybe the ecm is fried?
quick question though, and im sure you dont want to pull the cap off, but if u would (at TDC) the rotor should be facing ROUGHLY the grey connector on the coil right??
thanks Jeff,
I might email you with more questions if thats alright. Did you do the swap yourself?
yes mine does face the grey connector! yes i did install mine but im surely no mechanic. But hopefully i can help some. ok my
#1 question is there is that est wire that you disconnect when you adjust the timing, do you have that connected to the ECM? And are you unpluging it when you adjust the timing?
#2 question are you running winaldl? or a scan tool to see what codes your getting? how long can you keep it running?
sounds like a good place to start, i had plenty of my own problems but im electrician by trade so the electrical part (if thats our problem) i should be able to help you out!
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1992 Jeep Wrangler Built SBC 350 TBI, art Carr HD 700r4 125shot N20
JP Custom Controls
"Custom switch Panels For Race, Street & Offroad Vehicles"
It doesn t matter where the rotor is point as long as that is #1 when engine is at tdc on comp stroke.The #1 spark plug cable cable can be install installed anywhere on the cap.Peolple install the dizzys a certain way for clearance only for example the ignition module on mine is facing 2:00 clock.
ok, so I finally broke down and took the Heep to a shop... they found ; 1) EGR was toast... replaced that ; 2) The valves in the heads were too tight .... adjusted; 3) the ECM is hooped... still waiting on a replacement from the store (the shop closed for a week for holidays though )
When i stopped by to see what my bill was at, I was able to hop in and fire the thing up. It ran fine. Idled, had good throttle response. Kinda excited. My bill with everything (new valve covers and ECM too) was around CAN $900, to diagnose it, replace the parts and put gas in (I left it with a 1/4 tank haha).
Will update when I find out how the computer goes!