Need Help Car Died
01-07-2003, 09:10 PM
#1
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Car: 88 Formula 350
Transmission: 700R4
Need Help Car Died
1988 Formula 350 Firebird
I was moving so I went to my apt to pick up some stuff and when I went to leave my car wouldnt start. I tested and founf no power to fuel pump, I keep a GM service manual in car, have had problems in past. So I ran a jumper wire from battery to a5 point flat connector (i think 5) which i believe goes to fuel pump relay and diconnected to other side whick goes to computer. Car started and ran fine. Drove about 5 miles and car died suddenly, fuel pump still running and 45lbs pressure to fuel rail. Towed car home. A friend that is a mechanic said the computer is bad. I replaced computer but left the jumper wire as is because i ordered a new connecter but it did not come in. Car started but had to keep foot on gas pedal for car to run, would not idle. There are no codes. In past few years I have replaced all senors on motor including smog pump. There are no vacumn leaks that i know of have searched for them. When I rebuilt the motor a year ago i checked all wires for bad spots and did not find any and I am 99% sure I have all grounds hooked up, ran fine after rebuild.
It has a custom chip for motor combo, which is zero deck .525 lift cam and 1.6 roller rockers. Timing is set at stock and cam is degreed. Also has headers ,Flowmaster exhaust and 8.5 mm Accel wires. Any help is appreciated.
I was moving so I went to my apt to pick up some stuff and when I went to leave my car wouldnt start. I tested and founf no power to fuel pump, I keep a GM service manual in car, have had problems in past. So I ran a jumper wire from battery to a5 point flat connector (i think 5) which i believe goes to fuel pump relay and diconnected to other side whick goes to computer. Car started and ran fine. Drove about 5 miles and car died suddenly, fuel pump still running and 45lbs pressure to fuel rail. Towed car home. A friend that is a mechanic said the computer is bad. I replaced computer but left the jumper wire as is because i ordered a new connecter but it did not come in. Car started but had to keep foot on gas pedal for car to run, would not idle. There are no codes. In past few years I have replaced all senors on motor including smog pump. There are no vacumn leaks that i know of have searched for them. When I rebuilt the motor a year ago i checked all wires for bad spots and did not find any and I am 99% sure I have all grounds hooked up, ran fine after rebuild.
It has a custom chip for motor combo, which is zero deck .525 lift cam and 1.6 roller rockers. Timing is set at stock and cam is degreed. Also has headers ,Flowmaster exhaust and 8.5 mm Accel wires. Any help is appreciated.
Last edited by H0TR0Dn; 01-07-2003 at 09:40 PM.
01-07-2003, 09:14 PM
#2
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Before I get to your problem...
1. Punctuation. Learn it, use it, love it.
2. STOP TYPING IN ALL CAPS, IT MEANS YOU ARE YELLING AND PEOPLE ARE LEFT WONDERING WHAT IS GOING ON!!!!!.
1. Punctuation. Learn it, use it, love it.
2. STOP TYPING IN ALL CAPS, IT MEANS YOU ARE YELLING AND PEOPLE ARE LEFT WONDERING WHAT IS GOING ON!!!!!.
01-08-2003, 06:12 AM
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Don't make it any harder than it has to be, with all this talk about sensors and such. Don't outsmart yourself. Go back to the basics.
3 things are required for a motor to run: compression, air/fuel mixture in reasonable proportions, spark at the right time. Which one is missing?
I'm going to assume that you have compression. Spray some strating fluid into the intake. Does it run? If yes, you have a fuel delivery problem. If no, you have a spark problem. Then go from there, troubleshoot whichever system is actually found by logical testing to be the one that is malfunctioning.
3 things are required for a motor to run: compression, air/fuel mixture in reasonable proportions, spark at the right time. Which one is missing?
I'm going to assume that you have compression. Spray some strating fluid into the intake. Does it run? If yes, you have a fuel delivery problem. If no, you have a spark problem. Then go from there, troubleshoot whichever system is actually found by logical testing to be the one that is malfunctioning.
01-08-2003, 08:40 AM
#4
HOTRODn,
Welcome Aboard!
If you are having to hold the throttle open to keep it running, the IAC is not doing its job of admitting idle air. Check/set the TPS voltage, clean the IAC air passages in the throttle body,and set the minimum air position as necessary. If th eengine still refuses to idle cold, you might want to check the CTS sensor resistance. Don't just go replacing sensors indiscriminately. You need to diagnose the problem(s) first, or you'll wind up with another unnecessary expense (like the ECM).
Welcome Aboard!
If you are having to hold the throttle open to keep it running, the IAC is not doing its job of admitting idle air. Check/set the TPS voltage, clean the IAC air passages in the throttle body,and set the minimum air position as necessary. If th eengine still refuses to idle cold, you might want to check the CTS sensor resistance. Don't just go replacing sensors indiscriminately. You need to diagnose the problem(s) first, or you'll wind up with another unnecessary expense (like the ECM).
01-20-2003, 06:36 PM
#6
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Car: 88 Formula 350
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks
Finally got car running again. Ended up being 4 things. Starter was bad, Autozone checked said ok. Took it and had it rebuilt. It had a bad spot that was shorting when it got hot. Battery had a bad cell in it too. Wire bad on fuel pump relay switch and loose wire on fuse holder on fender. Anyways i wanted to say thanks for the help
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