Black_Widdow

iTrader: (1)

What is the best way to go about swapping a fuel pump? I heard it's not easy at all.

Drkhrse89

iTrader: (1)

I dont know what kind of car you have but on mine it is an in-tank so my rear end had to be dropped and then the fuel tank. Also since my exhaust was welded they had to unweld that and drop it as well. I did not do the swap I had someone else do it for those reasons. Good luck.

TomP

Work level = medium
Aggravation level = high

It's not that bad.. of course it's no oil change either. Pick up a Haynes 82-92 Camaro (or Firebird) manual from a parts store, it'll give you the same procedure that's in the GM shop manual. Then you can decide if you have the time/resources to do it. Remember that you have to have the back of the car pretty high up; be safe. A closed-in garage might not be the best place to do this (gas fumes)... I did mine outside on the driveway.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

KS91Z28

The hardest part is getting around the exhaust. If you can drop the exhaust out of the way fairly easily, then it isn't hard at all, and you shouldn't have to drop the rear end. at least I didn't have to when I did mine.

CamaroZ_85

taking the rear out of a third gen isnt hard at all. i replaced my entire rear suspension in about 3 hours last summer. i got everything apart in less than an hour (everything minus the torque arm) but you probably dont have to totally remove the rear, just drop it down. you'll only have to take off the shocks, panhard bar, and let the springs out. also gotta remove the rear swaybar links, if you have one. ive never dropped a tank but it cant be much more than all of this, aside from the exhaust.

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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers

black5.7GTA

Check out the new issue of GM High Tech Performance(Jan 01).They have an excellent Tech article on the swap(Its no day at the beach)

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1990 Trans Am GTA
Bosch plat+4 plugs,SLP plug wires,Hypertech coil kit,Fastchip PROM,SLP 160 therm,T-body bypass,SLP crankpulley,Breathless AFPR,,ported plenum,SLP runners,SLP flowbooster,SLP cold air,K&N,SLP 3"catback,SLP torqueconverter,SLP shiftkit,Mobil 1
14.3@96 stock
13.5@102 w/mods

TELLEZ

the fumes sucked, I helped the mechaic do it on my car, actually I intended to, but my tank was full and got sick as hell from the fumes, I was told it was hard beforehand and I knew my own limits, so I droppped it off at the mechanic. I stuck around to help and had to leave because the fumes got me sick and I was like that for two days. I am not trying to discourage you from doing it yourself, but be warned at least. Good luck either way.

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88 IROC-Z,L98 350 TPI, 700R-4 Tranny 2.77, K&N Filters, 126K Miles runs great.

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

CamaroZ_85's post pretty much sums it up on what you need to remove. I changed mine out removing the same things he mentioned. The tricky part is twisting the tank just right to get the filler neck through the rear frame rail once you get all the other stuff out of the way and you're dropping the tank out.



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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

TomP

I had a bent track bar brace in my way. (The car was rearended & fixed before I bought it.) The bolt must be bent; because I couldn't get it out of the passenger side of the track bar brace- including using a BFH, and even a sledge. The tank wouldn't come out with the bar swung almost straight down.

Like I said, I was on the driveway, so I dug a hole in the ground! The track bar brace was over soil, so I dug a hole like a crazy man, starting off with a screwdriver, and ending up with a garden spade. (My mailman came by to drop off the mail, I think I scared him; I was dirty/hot/sweaty, laughing my head off, and throwing dirt all over the place.) I swung the brace down into the hole and "out" past the passenger side tire; the gas tank came right out.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

Godti

I was told that when you drop your tank, depending on the shape of the car, you might have to replace the gas tank. Due to the straps, they hold moisture and can cause the tank to rust. When you remove the straps it might cause a hole to form.
I heard this from a friend, so I dont know how reliable the info is. But I thought I'd warn you just in case its true.

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

OMG TomP. If I would've been there watching you, I would've laughed until my sides split! Too funny!



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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

Vanguard

iTrader: (1)

I have replaced the fuel pump in both of my Formulas. If you have yours tools organized, you should be able to get the tank out within 1-1/2 hours.

My method consisted of disconnecting the brake hose, shocks & panhard bar in order to drop the rearend as low as possible.

Next, unbolt the exhaust and pull it out from the car and remove the heat sheilds.

Siphon as much gas as you can from the gas tank and ubolt the straps. Be careful when you take out the tank so that you do not bend the filler neck.

I found that both of my tanks were leaking fuel around the area where the filler neck meets the tank so I had a radiator shop fix the joint. The cost was about $45.

I then used a brass punch to unscrew the locking ring on the tank and pulled out the fuel pump assembly.

Baz89RS

I have seen a post here before about people cutting a hole in the rear of the car on top of where the tank is (next to where the spare tire sits)and fixing it with hinges and grommets for future jobs at the pump. Never having to drop the trans OR the axle.
But not many people are font of cutting up there 3rd gen's.....

echidna

I just replaced the fuel pump and sender in my '89 RS and to say the least, it isn't much fun. Just about everything is in the way, suspension,heat shields, exhaust... If you do elect to do this I'd recommend getting the tank as dry as possible, raise the car as high as is possible, recruit a second set of hands, take a look at a Chilton's or similar
manual to get square on tools required. Watch out for sparks !!!

Bort62

Boy, well the Fuel Pump On My LG4 Is right uP in the front take about 30 minutes to change




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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Z28 LG4 - Daily Driver
**Mods**
MSD Superconductors
14" Open Element
KYB all around