car continues to fun cold . . .
#1
car continues to fun cold . . .
The IROC continues to run cold. Thermostat is working. Running 180* stat, may try a 195*. At any rate, when I start i up it warms up and a little heat comes out the vents ,ect. When I drive it in the cold, it usually ends up down around 100-110* and of course starts running like crap at this temp. If I stop (no air over radiator) it will warm back up and the car runs fine. Should I put a piece of cardboard over the radiator, I remember people doing this back in the day to allow less air over the radiator and thus allowing the car to run warmer. I think I will put a heat new sensor in the head and a 195* stat in soon (or just leave it parked until spring). Also the plastic cover that goes over the connecting terminal the attaches to the heat sensor is off exposing it to the air, could air moving over this cause the temp to read off. I don't think it would and even if it did, the car would actually be up to heat and not running bad, plus heat should be coming out of the vents as well.
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87 IROC, 350/5 speed. gmpp 350, vortec heads w/some work, XE268, 1.5rr's, 650dp, rpm intake, MSD ing., ect.
89 formula, L98.
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87 IROC, 350/5 speed. gmpp 350, vortec heads w/some work, XE268, 1.5rr's, 650dp, rpm intake, MSD ing., ect.
89 formula, L98.
#2
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Car: 87 Formula/ 00 Xtreme
Engine: TPI 305/ v6
Transmission: struggling t-5/ 4l60E
Axle/Gears: 3.08/ 3.23
Sounds like your thermostat isn't holding shut. My camaro was doing the same thing & I just replaced the 195*° autozone special(came w/car) with a 180° robert shaw,, it holds the temp and heat is nice & toasty now
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Da Boid
- 4 out of 5 people think the 5th is an idiot
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Da Boid
- 4 out of 5 people think the 5th is an idiot
#3
That's what I was thinking, but two generic and one robert shaw later, I'm pretty sure that is not it, however, it does seem that coolant is flowing through the upper hose way before 180* - no matter what thermostat I use. I know there will be margins of error and my temp gauge may be off, but it certainly is not staying warm enough to put out heat once moving. Any others . . .
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87 IROC, 350/5 speed. gmpp 350, vortec heads w/some work, XE268, 1.5rr's, 650dp, rpm intake, MSD ing., ect.
89 formula, L98.
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87 IROC, 350/5 speed. gmpp 350, vortec heads w/some work, XE268, 1.5rr's, 650dp, rpm intake, MSD ing., ect.
89 formula, L98.
#5
They used to be, now I have them completely off so it will warm up when not moving at least. I need to wire a switch before I get in a situation where the car needs to idle for any length of time or else it will overheat most likely. Any more . . .
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87 IROC, 350/5 speed. gmpp 350, vortec heads w/some work, XE268, 1.5rr's, 650dp, rpm intake, MSD ing., ect.
89 formula, L98.
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87 IROC, 350/5 speed. gmpp 350, vortec heads w/some work, XE268, 1.5rr's, 650dp, rpm intake, MSD ing., ect.
89 formula, L98.
#6
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I am having the exact same problem on my camaro. I am mostly sure that the carbed 305 that came in it doesn'have a heat sensor. I have replaced the thermostat 4 times. Thought i kept getting bad stats(autozone brand). If you find out what your problem is could you let me know? thanks in advance.
#7
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Try bumping up the timing. If the timing is retarted or too close to TDC it's going to run cooler.
Also, look for other possibilites. Faulty sending unit, faulty gauge, faulty blower motor/controls.
Is it blowing alot of luke-warm air when cold or very little air?
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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
Also, look for other possibilites. Faulty sending unit, faulty gauge, faulty blower motor/controls.
Is it blowing alot of luke-warm air when cold or very little air?
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1984 WS6 Trans Am Hartop
Former L69 Car under restoration
1984 WS6 Trans Am T-top car
4-bolt main 350, headers, Holley 650, T-5 and 3.23's.
Daily driver and restoration
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#8
When the car is cold, the blower motor only blows out cold air. As the coolant temp increase, so does the air out of the vent. I could imagine that the heater core is not functioning properly with this scenario. However, the temp gauge, if it is accurate really drops when driving and the cars starts to run correspondingly worse and the heat goes away from the vent. If I stop, and no air is flowing over the radiator obviously, the temp. gauge raises, the car starts to run better, and heat comes out of the vent. Not strong heat, about what I figure for a 180* stat. Once the IROC is warm, it puts out similar heat to my formula that has a 180* stat.
It seems that is the sending unit, sensor or gauge are bad I would just have inaccurate readings, possibly not the cold air out of the vents and much more likely not the car running worse (like it cold), especially since there is no computer.
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87 IROC, 350/5 speed. gmpp 350, vortec heads w/some work, XE268, 1.5rr's, 650dp, rpm intake, MSD ing., ect.
89 formula, L98.
It seems that is the sending unit, sensor or gauge are bad I would just have inaccurate readings, possibly not the cold air out of the vents and much more likely not the car running worse (like it cold), especially since there is no computer.
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87 IROC, 350/5 speed. gmpp 350, vortec heads w/some work, XE268, 1.5rr's, 650dp, rpm intake, MSD ing., ect.
89 formula, L98.
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