daniel dekay

first off, i replaced my lg4 with a GM 350. since then it has been to the shop with one problem after another. first the carb needed to be adjusted, that was 105 bucks and all they did was fix the choke cuz that cuased the high idle and 'dieseling' when i shut it down. i took it in again because the car runs way too rich and she threw no codes. for 80 more bucks they say the new problem is that my TPS is causing the car to run rich. My problem here is, when they diagnosed the bad idle was caused by the choke, wouldnt the TPS play some part, no matter how minor it is. and shouldnt they have diagnosed that too, instead of making me pay 80 more?

and now, he said the TECH needs 240 more bucks worth of diagnoses, i think that is just BS. i am picking the car up at around 2pm today. i need some help as to fix this problem.

the bottom line: my 86 camaro 350 q-jet is running too rich. i get a bad fuel odor upon start up and it is very difficult to start up once i have started it and killed it. i know for a fact that i need to get the O2 sensor wire workin cuz it is too close to the headers and has burned off. could that cuase the car to run rich, the GM guy said no, but i am starting to not trust this man.
any help would be very appreciated.

thanks

daniel

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86 camaro cpe(dont laugh)has 92z28 body kit with GTS covers, new red paint and a killer stereo. 2 amps, 8 speakers, disc changer, custom install with subs coming by the end of the summer. gm 350,TES headers, flowmaster cat back, performer manifold, TCI converter, jet chip, kn with dual snorkel cleaner. and she still passed the sniffer!

"Cal Poly SLO is the shi#"

MrF-body

not having an oxygen sensor would keep the emissions computer in open-loop mode. can you hear the mixture selonoid clicking when you turn the key on? does it have the right carb base gasket on it? also if it is running rich, make sure you change the oil!!!! the excessive fuel will dilute the oil.

Vortex_89rs

Carbed cars have TPS's?

Vman

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1969 Camaro Sport Coupe
383, 700R4, leather, everything black but the lights

Previous owner of an 89 RS Camaro
2.8L V6, 700R4

TomP

Yep; it's not the one we're used to, though. You need a special tool to get to this one.

Heh, well, that is, if it's a computer controlled carb...


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

daniel dekay

what kind of tool is needed to get to the TPS? i think the base gasket is the right one. when i replaced the engine i ran thru the carb and replaced all the gaskets, the gasket set i bought matched the #'s on the carb. i will change the oil sometime this weekend. so u think the o2 sensor may be the culprit, or should i change out the TPS?

speaking of that, how does one go about changing the TPS?

thanks

daniel

Ed Maher

Dude that sucks. You should have stopped by my board and you'd have a lot more money in your pocket. Just upon hearing 'high idle' my first shot would have been a sticky choke. A good bath in carb cleaner, or at worst taking it apart and cleaning it would have fixed it. 1/2-1 hour tops, you got robbed, sorry.
As for the richness, again, that's easy. I would have also flagged teh TPS right off, it's a VERY common failure part on these cars, and unlike EFI cars, it generally will not throw a code with CCCS. It just makes you run in open loop constantly. Of course the burnt O2 wire is also an immediate problem as well. This should throw a code. I suppose in the twisted CCCS ECM if the TPS were stuck high it might not care about the O2 readings and not throw a code, but i can't say i've ever seen that happen.

If the tech told you the burnt O2 wire wasn't a problem i'd never let him near my car again, even to change oil. Any monkey mechanic could tell you that the O2 sensor is the most important link in a computer controlled car.

I don't have the time to get into this more now, about to leave work. Go by the carb board and leave a post describing your problems and anything relevant you can add and i'll get to it monday (if noone else does.) In the meantime if you want to know more about your carb and it's computer system, the haynes rochester carb. manual has a good description of how it works, as well as everything you'll need in the way of instructions for tearing into the carb to get to the TPS (not too difficult, but a manual is helpful.)
Also, if you're serious about doing this yourself (which you should be with how you're getting robbed.) you'll need to get the TPS adjusting tool, #362 at http://www.thexton.com/catalog/fuel/fuel_1.htm#No. 362
Available elsewhere as well, like from snap-on and such.
...ed

stingerssx

Hey Daniel, One of my girlfriends lives up there. She goes to Cal Poly.

Are you aware of the califrornia assistance program. If the repairs cost over a certain amount, the state picks up the tab. Just a thought though.

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'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4

daniel dekay

isnt that just for smog related problems stinger?

Vader

Yup, or at least Rochester E4MC and E4ME carbs have them (item #71):



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Later,
Vader
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"Keep rollin' rollin' rollin' rollin'..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
KaleCo Auto Parts

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited January 27, 2001).]

RB83L69

I think you are getting the dealer-speak version of "I don't want to work on your old greasy POS when I can make more money fixing interior trim copmplaints on cars with 372 miles on them". Read between the lines.

The usual reason for one of those to run too rich is the plugs on the bottom of the fuel bowl under the primary jets. Look at part # 85 in Vader's blow-up, which is the throttle plate gasket; notice the odd-shaped hole in the center of the gasket right at the very front; there are 2 "towers" that stick down from the bottom of the fuel bowl that protrude through that hole, the plugs are on there. Wire brush, then sand, then lacquer thinner, then epoxy over all 4 of them. I'll bet that one thing alone will revolutionize the carb, especially at idle and cruise. The plugs are exposed to manifold vacuum underneath and fuel above, so when they leak, the engine literally sucks the fuel through there. Then when you turn the mtor off the entire contents of the fuel bowl drain into the intake, which causes hard hot starts with large clouds of black smoke. Sound familiar?

In any case, when people quote you impossibly ridiculous high prices for something, what they are really saying is "I don't feel like working on it, take it someplace else". Take the hint and learn a little about it so you can fix it yourself, you'll be glad you did.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports