bad_ta_05

i just put some ported .416 casting heads, xe268h cam, and edelbrock performer intake and 600 cfm electric choke edelbrock carb on my 350. when its really cold i turn on the fast idle and it starts right up. if i shut it off and then immediately start it it fires just fine and perfect. but if it sits for any length of time it stutter starts and barely turns over and i barely get it started. it runs really hot but i have a new electric coolin fan on its way and a 160 degree thermostat. then at a stop the idle goes way down sometimes and dies or will sound like its gunna die. i also lose pressure on my brakes after i push them once they get really squishy adn sometimes my brake light comes on. im not sure whats goin on. i have messed with the timing until im blue in the face and doesnt change it at all. i know i need to adjust my carb. im gunna get a jet kit soon and try some different things. could that be a problem for the way it runs? any ideas. also my starter is a mini starter and i have headers if that has anything to do with it. thanks alot

F-BIRD'88

Sounds like the choke is remaining on when you go to start the motor hot.
What is the initial timing set at? a comp XE268 will want increased initial timing at idle or the car will run hot.
You may need to recurve the distributor.

When starting it hot does flooring the gas pedal during cranking help?
What is the temp shown on the guage when its hot?
carb jets have nothing to do with this.

bad_ta_05

the timing was at 6 degrees advanced. and it stutter started. so i retarded it and still did it. so i advanced it and it runs better but still does the same thing. how do i recurve the distributor? yes it does help it start when i floor teh gas. it starts and sounds crappy until it warms up a little bit but it starts faster.

bad_ta_05

i think i need to specify what i mean by stutter start. i mean the 1st 2-4 times it turns over it barely and really slowly turns over and then turns over really fast for awhile and finally fires up.

F-BIRD'88

"Hot start" sounds like you have a "hot start" problem.
You can check the negative battery cable connections.
You can replace the starter solenoid.
You can install a auxillary driver solenoid on the fender ( a ford V8 solenoid) and put a jumper on the GM solenoid.
You can get a starter heat shield to keep the starter cool(er)
You can get a heavy duty starter.(corvette BB 454 4 pole starter)

Your motor withits londer duration cam (xe 268H10) will like more initial advance at idle. but will want the same 32-36 totoal mechanical advance. so to achieve this with your stock distributor you need to limit the distributor's mechanical advance travel.
A good curve for U would be 20deg initial at idle advanceing to 36degrees at 3000rpm. So you want to limit the advance travle to 16degrees. You can install a advance bushing on the advance pin . You can swap different distributor weights and center piece.
You can weld up the slot that the advance limitier pin rides in and grind it out again to the right amount.
Some aftemarket distributors have a adjustable advance stop.

The advance springs change the rate of advance not the amount of total travel. One you've limited the travel to 16degrees, a medium spring tension should be right for your purposes.
you want a stable 20degrees at idle (700rpm) advanceing smoothly to a max of 36degrees at about 3000rpm.
The real light springs as unstable.
the edelbrock performer intake tends to heat up real fast compared to a stock cast iron intake.
it does not need near as much help from the exhaust heat under the carb plenum. You should loosen off the intake bolts and slide a steel shim plate between the intake and head at the gasket to block off the exhaust heat raisers.
rally helps the performer "perform"

F-BIRD'88

here is a pic

F-BIRD'88

here's how the Ford solenoid goes.
This should keep ya busy

bad_ta_05

ok. i understand now. do u know where i could buy shims and the springs i need for my distributor? or i could look for an aftermarket distributor. any suggestions on which one? i am deffinately going to cover my starter and im going to try the ford soilinoid because i just happen to have one from a truck thats never been used. thanks alot for all the info f-bird!

bad_ta_05

what about these? they sayadjustable vaccum advance canister, high performance advance kit.

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...&Ntt=PNX-D8002

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...t=PRO-66945BKC

bad_ta_05

i dont know. i dont really want to buy a new distributor. thats alot of money

Stekman

I have a mallory distrib (the one that is ~$150ish with the coil). It comes with a variety of springs for rate of travel, like F-BIRD mentions. Been a while since i looked under the rotor to see the guts, so i don't recall off hand.

The absolute best way to cure hot start conditions is to replace the wimpy factory starter. Remote solenoids and sheilds, IMO, are just masks of the real problem. Sure, they can help a bit, but they don't solve the fact that the factory starters are just plain weak. Any good mini-starter or some other starter with high-torque should do the trick. My new CVR just came in the mail a few days ago. I only wish i had a car worth installing into.

As for the performer intake, i have the fel-pro gasket sets and i use the little metal peices that are inserted. Once side is a complete closure, the other has a small circle to allow SOME flow. Like a restrictor plate for the crossover. I plan on fully closing them when the ZZ4 intake goes on later this year.

That is pretty much my couple of pennies.