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solid or hydrolic? if solid use the correct thickness gage and tighten the rocker down till the gage slides across the valve tip and roller. this all of which has to be done with the valve closed, you can look in your manual to see what valves you can do with out having to spin the engine over more than you need. for hydrolics set them the same as regular rockers on a hydrolic cam. loosen untill you hear a tick and then tighten another 1/2 to 3/4 turn.
------------------ ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
They're hydraulic roller lifters as well and I'll be setting it with the engine not running. So, if that's what you meant by "tick" (hearing them start to tick), how do you do it with the engine at rest? The usual "tighten it until you feel it start to grab, then 1/2 turn more?" Or do I use a feeler gauge?
turn the engine till both valves are closed on each cylinder, tighten the rocker nut while spinning the push rod with you're free hand. when the push rod stops spinning tighten another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. best to set it up a little loose and use the engine running method after it fires up.
------------------ ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
This is the way I use at work to adjust all SBC rocker arms. First you need to put the engine at Top Dead Center(TDC) firing position for Cylinder #1.
With the engine in the #1 firing position the following valves may be adjusted:
-Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8
-Intake 1, 2, 5, 7
Back out the rocker arm nut until lash is felt at the pushrod.
Turn in the rocker arm nut until all lash is removed. This can be determined by rotating the pushrod white turning the rocker arm nut. When the play has been removed, turn the rocker arm nut one full turn.
Now turn the crankshaft over one revolution. This should be Top Dead Center(TDC) for #6 cylinder firing position.
With the engine in the number six firing position, the following valves may be adjusted:
-Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7
-Intake 3, 4, 6, 8
Use same procedure as above for adjustment.
I use this on all the old solid lifter cams I have used. You can also adjust them with the engine running if you can get the rocker covers off easily and adjust them with it running easily - if there is enough room to do it safely. I prefer the above method though cause its not as messy, and oil doesn't get on the exhaust and smoke forever. This may not work well with all camshaft profiles. It does work well for all stock style GM cams, and I used it on my LT4 Hotcam engines that I have built.
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-Joseph
ASE Master Auto Technician Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet Sunset RaceCraft
AOL IM: JosephSDSC 1967 Camaro (5.7L, Vortec Heads, ZZ4 Camshaft, GM Vortec Intake) 1992 Firebird (5.7L, Vortec Heads, LT4 Hot Cam, GM Vortec Intake, 3000 Stall, 3.73's, Auburn Posi)
I bought and recently installed a new GM LO5/ZZ4 from SDPC. They installed a Crane cam and LT4 roller rockers before they shipped it out. It was shipped to me with the valve covers on. Should I be worried about having to adjust the rockers before I run it for the first time? I remember asking them if they adjust them and they said they did (and degree in the cam?).
I'm not completly sure about the valve lash adjustment on that engine. I would assume it was done when the cam was swapped. Not sure on degreeing the camshaft. Thats not normal procedure for most crate engines.
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-Joseph
ASE Master Auto Technician Scoggin-Dickey Chevrolet Sunset RaceCraft
AOL IM: JosephSDSC 1967 Camaro (5.7L, Vortec Heads, ZZ4 Camshaft, GM Vortec Intake) 1992 Firebird (5.7L, Vortec Heads, LT4 Hot Cam, GM Vortec Intake, 3000 Stall, 3.73's, Auburn Posi)
