Project

Thinking of going FULL roller, with all forged internals and single turbo...

Valve lash a BIG problem? How do you check for it?

I know the plus sides of full roller, but not the down so inform me. thx

AlkyIROC

downsides? I guess the only real downside is if the cam is too aggressive, it can eat up valve springs quickely from having the valves slammed open and closed so fast.

Why would valve lash be a big problem? I suppose of it's difficult to take your valve covers off. The only time you need to adjust valve lash is with a solid cam. Once a hydraulic cam's valve lash is set, there's no requirement to change it.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

I assuming you mean street driving a full roller set up? A full on race roller is for the track and that is no b.s. Full race rollers use bronze dist gears so the gear is "self sacraficing" meaning it`ll wear out. race motors are taken down at least once a season so anything wearing can be caught before it goes out completely. Springs like stephen87 said are going to need to be replaced often, most full race rollers are hard on all of the valvetrain parts, meaning nothing will last long.

I found a compromise between full race roller and running less desirable set-ups. Comp cams sells a line called the extreme energy street roller, the cams are solid rollers that have soft closing and opening points (easy on valvetrain) they also use cast iron dist gears (use a standard dist gear),
The roller lifters recomended use pressurized needle bearings so low rpms are okay (expensive) ..I `ve ran a 670 lift roller on the street 3yrs now with no problems- 1 lash adjustment at the begining of the season and that`s has been it, keepers, valve lock grooves, roller wheels and bearings have checked fine three times now. Cams have always killed my short blocks so I keep a keen eye on it

The power you gain from the full roller set up is uncomparable I would`nt think of using anything else in the future