Meatwad

Alright guys, I gotta be honest here. I am over my head.

I'm honestly going through a breakdown right now, I am paying $250 a month for this 3rd gen, I only have $800 saved up for parts right now. (I can double or triple that if I sell my other toys) My 93 ford f150 has 190xxx and is about to die. I have no idea what to do here, I'm stuck! I need a new passenger header (cracked), new exhaust (leaking), I think the engine needs all the seals redone, and I THINK I need new injectors. (they are cracked on the outside and the first spark plug on the passenger side was totally coated in black.)

I have been running rich since the day I bought this thing and I haven't even driven it in 4 months. It has been sitting in this storage building collecting dust.

I honestly do not know what the internals are. With the paxton supercharger it was running low 12's but could NOT idle worth a crap even after tuning and reading the dfi book for days on end.

My alternator went out and thats when I went crazy. I bought a new alternator and got all fired up to fix everything that didn't work and now? Look where I'm at

You guys can laugh at me, call me a moron, but understand I don't know what to do. I'm asking for good advice and someone to tell me what to buy, or what to do. I'm just stuck in a rutt and need to know what kind of budget I need to have, and what I need to buy. I am not much of a mechanic as you can see, and I don't think I can really afford one so I might be out here asking stupid questions. Please bare with me as this HAS to be my next form of transportation (daily for a while) until I can afford a new vehicle.

8Mike9

http://img260.echo.cx/img260/1413/car035sz.jpg

Can be welded up very quickly, minimal cost.

http://img260.echo.cx/img260/2298/car022qe.jpg

Why are all the plug wires off? Do you need help on where they go back too?

http://img260.echo.cx/img260/6087/car032rp.jpg

Looks like the first pic, again, not much work involved, can be done without removing the header.


http://img260.echo.cx/img260/1234/car048ds.jpg

Okay, I se now with your explanation. Time for a set of wires...could be the reason it is falling off the coil is it's the wrong type of wire boot/end. Take the coil with you to the Parts store and tell'em "I need a set of wires for a "xx" year , and a coil wire for this type of coil to my cap ()may as well take the cap in as well. Buy a new cap and rotor too.

http://img260.echo.cx/img260/9019/car058pc.jpg

That may be the cruise control linkage, unsure I'll look under my hood tomorrow. Don't worry about the horns.

Also, word of advice is if you're funds-limited, might be a good idea to leave the Paxton off. Go over all the bolts on the SR, I've heard that the SR's are prone to poor sealing, causing vacuum leaks, Get a set of 24lb FMS injectors and replace what you have, could be the PO has big injectors in there (may be able to get the numbers to ID them) for the Paxton, but never got around to tuning it. IIRC you bought this car from a lady who's husband passed away? Anyway, get a used laptop and some data logging software and record some runs and send them to someone like Ed Wright at FASTCHIPS to get a decent tune.

Priority would be to fix the things you know need to be fixed, then go after and post problems you don't know.

Meatwad

I posted the same pic twice! Opps

Thanks for the help so far man, the only problem is I tried to unbolt the header and I can't get it to line back up. I don't understand how it could shift?

Here is a pic of all the fluids that are leaking.... the large one at the back is the tranny fluid. (Goes through a quart a week of oil and leaves drops everywhere)

Meatwad

I would edit but I can't

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

As far as the wires go, with headers youll need to get a universal set with 90 degree boots. I also recommend the crimping tool from MSD. Its a really nice piece and it makes doing a set of wires a snap. Also be neat and dont use alot of excessive wire and be sure to use wire looms to keep the wires clear of the headers. With this, you can make a set of wires that are as durable and clean as a stock setup.

The leaks from the engine are probably due to the valve covers. Those perimeter bolt ones do a **** poor job of sealing if you dont use quality gaskets and arnt careful with installation. The leak at the trans could be from the rear seal (easy), the pan (easy), speedo (easy), the filler tube, TV cable, manual shaft (moderate, may have to tilt the engine/trans to get access to some of these) or the front seal in the pump (major PITA).

welcome to the wonderful world of boost and speed density. This can be another pain to get right. Go over to the DIY-Prom and Power Adder boards and search/read as much as you can. I doubt the DFI manual will go into the nitty gritty specifics of what it takes to tune.

SLEEPER 86

nice lookin motor,clean it up!
can't really see the spark plug boots,are they burned through?
fire it up at night and mist the wires with water,you'll see which wires are bad.spread the brass conductor of the coil wire apart a bit til it fits snug in the coil.
gotta clean that engine to find the source of the oil leaks.
same with the transmission.invest in a floor jack and some jackstands.you'll be glad you did!
header collector could be loose,but you probably just need an extra set of hands to get it lined back up.
also,egt a new set of plugs,and gap them at .035 or .040
Keep us posted!
Eric B

Meatwad

Guys! I feel so much better. You guys make it sound like it isn't as big of a deal as I was making it (I had these thoughts of thousands in parts and mechanic bills)

I can't seem to get my camaro jacked up any farther than that! Honestly I can't get the jack stands down! I have them placed where when I jack it up there is more pressure on the wheels and it makes them harder to move.

Any tips on that?

Woot I might actually get something done here!

Meatwad

I'm also a rather portly person (hehe) and the 1" clearance I have won't do. I can't even get my hand up to touch the passenger exhaust collector

firebird45331

omg what a wreck, geeze I'll give ya $500 bucks for it.

Meatwad

The leak in the transmission is coming from the passenger side front of the transmission (Like 4" back from where the tranny starts)

The oil leaks are from everywhere, I looked at the valve covers and could NOT see any oil. The oil is coming from the stick I'm sure and the rear main (maybe)

How can I get my car jacked up a couple of feet so I can get under there!

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

The trans leak could be the tv cable housing o-ring or the filler tube.

Judging by all the oil on the side of the motor, Id say the VCs are trickling oil. If you have an older style block with the 2-piece RMS then that and the oil pan are almost certainly leaking, too. My pre-86 GM crate 350 shortblock spews oil from the RMS and the pan. Its like that old stuff was designed not to work. If its a newer block then leaks are also likely, but my origional 88 305 with the one piece RMS didnt leak a drop.

8Mike9

Unless the leak is actually seen flowing, I'd say get the engine running correctly first, than tackle the leaks/annoyances.

Meatwad

How much do you think a mechanic would charge to tackle fixing all the leaks? I don't really have time with my job to get this done in the near future

8Mike9

Really depends on a few things...

Thier hourly rate, and what has to be done.

You might be best suited to go to a reputable independant shop and ask for an estimate, or if you don't know of a reputable shop, go try a dealer.

But...obviously you need to get the car running first, before you can get estimates...trailoring/towing it around would get old/tired/expensive in a hurry

Streetiron85

Maybe you could find some local enthusaist or TGO member who'd take that Paxton in trade for labor to get your car in shape.
Just a thought.

Meatwad

Anyone want to help me run my new coolant lines ?

I'll get some pics tomarrow, I'm a bit lost in how I took them off.