faulball67

iTrader: (2)

I'm pulling my heads for a full porting. A buddy is doing the port work so to keep my cost down, I want to remove and reinstall my valves and valve springs myself. This is something I have never done before. It doesn't seem all that complicated though. I figured it would be a good time to check the springs and valves for abuse. The springs don't have that much time on them (less than 800 miles) so I they should be good.

I need to know how to PROPERLY remove and reinstall the springs (how to install at proper height for example), and if I need new retainers, seals, and locks or if I can use the old ones.

Apeiron

There's not much to it. Remove them with a valve spring compressor. Installation is the reverse of assembly.

There's not much point to worrying too much about installed height if you're reusing the stock springs. If you were going to then probably the best way to measure installed height is to use a valvespring micrometer, but any other reasonably accurate method of measuring the distance between the head and the retainer would work. If the measured distance is too large, put shims of the necessary thickness between the head and the springs.

faulball67

iTrader: (2)

what about the valve locks?

Apeiron

Reuse them if you want. They're not a wear item.

AtomicTruck

If your buddy doing the port work has any experience at all he can pull the springs in about 2 seconds and shouldn't charge you any extra. You need to keep the valves in the same holes they came out of if you're not going to do a valve job.

If your buddy doesn't have the tools to pull the springs then I would be a little concerned about having him do the porting work. It isn't rocket science but it is pretty easy to mess up a head and make preformance worse. It is also easy to accidently brush the die grinder collet onto the valve seat... which will require minor seat touch-up...

Good luck

ede

BHF and a socket will remove the valve keepers in about 2 seconds. i made a special tool for it out of a piece of 3/4 black pipe to save my sockets from abuse. you need a compressor to reinstall them. it'd also be a great idea to check installed height before you reassemble the heads and replace seals when you do. i wouldn't worry too much about what hole the valves came out of, other than putting intake valves in the intake ports and exhaust in exhaust ports. i'd figure on having the valve seats cleaned up, i usually touch them with the collet nut o nthe tool or with the tool shaft.

5678TA

"shouldnt charge you any extra"
what if he does?? this guy is trying to keep costs down.. hell, if i was porting someone elses heads, i would love it if they took the springs and valves out..

well anyway, keep the springs and valves in order.. dont mix them up.. a valvetrain tray is a great idea for doing just that.. if you dont want to buy one, make one.. get a piece of 2x12 wood and drill a hole for the locks to go in, then put 16D nails for the spring/retainers/seals.. and for valves, drill more holes and stick em upside down.. cheap and effective.. if you have the materials and tools..

faulball67

iTrader: (2)

Taking them apart saves me about $100. He's doing them at the shop he works at during the day. Any time I can save him is time I don't have to pay his boss for. He's just getting me a 20% discount. The money I save goes toward new arp head bolts, and SCE titan self sealing copper head gaskets.