meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Well I just completed my 355 build. 195cc TrickFlow heads, 268xfi compcam, complete forged bottom end w/6in h beam rods, 1.6rr, edelbrock tpi base and runners, edelbrock headers and some other goodies. Man did it sound mean. Had to shut it off due to a small fire. Some of the wires were laying on the headers so I have to let it cool off and re run all of the wires. Then I can finish breaking it in. I can't wait to drive it. Took my about a week and a half to build the engine and drop it in. I've gotten alot of help off of this board and just wanted to let everyone know it's done and it works. So thanks for the help.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

Looking good. I will be interested in how it performs.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Well might have a problem. I'm attempting to break in the cam but the engine seems to be getting toooo hot. The headers are glowing and even the plenum and the runners are too hot to touch. I set the timing to 6 degrees but don't know what else could be the problem. How do you extinquish the difference between a noisy lifter and an exhaust leak? I know I have an exhaust leak at the y-pipe but I can't get it fixed until i get it running and to a shop. What should I be checking for? I've got over 4grand in the motor and don't want to take any chances. Please help! Thanks

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Thought I might want to add that I'm using stock size injectors with an adjustable fuel regulator. I have a new balancer as well but at tdc the #1 piston was at the top so I believe the timing marks are correct. The center of the headers starts to glow first and shortly after the rest of them start to glow. What should I check first?

trumps2000

iTrader: (2)

Man that looks sweet and probably will perform just as sweet.

As for you're glowing headers, I have the exact same problem, Fing scary when you first see it isn't it? Apparently this is somehow common, I still have to finish breaking mine in. I think the #1 reason it too much ignition retard, but could also occur from a bad air/fuel ratio.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

too rich or timing not advanced enough, so check both of those.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

What should I set the timing at? The computer hasn't been changed. I suppose I should get a chip burned. Also what should I set the fuel pressure regulator at? I know there's not an exact but just need a good place to start for my engine set up. Thanks

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

When you're breaking in the cam the engine will get pretty hot, that's the nature of the beast. It's not going down the road and you're at 3000RPM... Yea, try giving it more timing and/or make sure it's not lean, but as long as it's not overheating then just let it go for the 25mins or whatever.

GuitarJunki17

iTrader: (1)

Hm, not a fan of the all blue serp system, I'd have gone lighter on the colors, but it sounds like a nice combo you have. You'll love driving it, I'm sure. Just be sure to keep an eye on the temp gauge as you break that cam in. Get some fans pointed towards that radiator if it's a hot day you are doing it on. We had a problem on a friends car with a break in like that before. Headers glowing is normal in some instances.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Well write now I have either a really loud exhaust leak or something wrong in the engine. Problem is I use the stethescope and the lifters aren't really loud at all. I can hear them but there not loud. So is this the exhaust leak? It seems to be coming from the back of the pass side and almost goes away with a little throttle. I'd check for air but it's so damn hot I can't really get close to the y-pipe connection. Any idea?

trumps2000

iTrader: (2)

Are you done breaking it in?

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Ok here is a zip file of the tapping noise I'm getting from the pass side back of engine. If you all can listen to it and tell me what you think it could be? Also my heads are aluminum now can I still use them for a solid ground for the wires that were on the back of the old heads? Thanks for taking the time.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

I don't think the file will open is there another way to send a sound clip?
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No I was reading on the board and found out I don't have to break in the cam due to it being a roller cam. Or did I read wrong?
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No I was reading on the board and found out I don't have to break in the cam due to it being a roller cam. Or did I read wrong?

trumps2000

iTrader: (2)

Yea roller cams don't need to be broken in. Don't know why this ZIP file won't open.

Are you sure its am exhaust leak, maybe a lifter needs to be relashed? Exhaust leaks are a funny thing. For a while I had an exhuast leak under the hood and finally realized the choke heater plate didn't have a gasket on it. I find the easiest way to find an exhaust leak is too look around for soot in the area where you hear it, but that requires some driving it.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Well I messed with the timing and the headers weren't glowing anymore. Well #6 had a real slight glow to it but wasn't anywhere near bright. But that sound, it's like a tap or even a ting sound. Piston slap doesn't sound like that or the valves hitting the piston does it?

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

alright here's a url to a video/sound clip I did. If anyone can take a listen to it and tell me what they think I'll really appreciate it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSricyBpNnA

5678TA

i can open the file.. Mac's for life.. lol

AL heads conduct the same electricity as iron.. ground away.. i do..

check your valve lash.. not sure what an xfi cam is.. solid roller? hyd roller? either way, recheck the "lash".. make sure its not out of whack.. sounds like a valve tapping..

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

[quote=meyer30;3329564]alright here's a url to a video/sound clip I did. If anyone can take a listen to it and tell me what they think I'll really appreciate it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MSricyBpNnA

trumps2000

iTrader: (2)

Hmmm, it does sound like an exhaust leak. Did you use the metal gaskets and donuts on the exhaust? Mine uses a metal stamped gasket between the EFE and manifold and a donut on the other header.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Yeah I have one for sure I just wanted to make sure that's what the sound was before I start ripping the top of the motor apart. The shop I took my exhaust to the first time really f'ed it up. I took it to them figuring they could do a better job of welding. Boy, was I wrong. I'm gonna drive it to another shop and have them re-do the whole thing. I put the stethoscope on the valve covers and the lifters don't sound LOUD. I can hear them moving and a slight ticking type noise but nothing extreme. So I guess it's safe to drive to the shop and have that repaired then. I'm open for other suggestions on the noise tho. I won't be going anywhere with it until next week. Thanks

transbird86

sounds more like your valve lash on a rocker isn't right, does the tapping get faster with rpm

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

It's hard to tell. The engine and exhaust gets really loud with rpms. But I really couldn't hear the tapping with the rpm's up. Almost like it went away. So what does it mean if it goes away or if it gets faster with rpm's?

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Well I went out and listened to it again and the noise definetly gets faster with rpm's. Not louder tho just faster. Any opinions?

77monte

Did you retighten all the header bolts.. 100% positive it'll go away afterwards. I hear that all too often on my cars.. the bolts loosen up all the time and will back off after the initial heat/expansion the first time. plus they actually need to be torqued down pretty tight.. this is where some good shorty wrenches come in handy..

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Alright well I took off the valve cover on the pass side and adjusted the lifters and replaced the header gasket. Now the damn thing won't stay running. If I give it gas and hold it at a grand it will stay running. Sounds real mean too. But once I lift off the gas it dies. Everything is plugged back in all the hoses and wires. What should I be looking for? Could damaged plug wires do this? I'm at a loss for the moment

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Your timing is probably wayyy off. Or you might be a tooth off on the distributor or something.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

That's how I got it to run the first time. And It would stay running on it's own. Alls I did was replace the header gasket and adjust the valves. Would that change the timing at all? I've looked over everything like 5 times and I can't figure it out.

ljnowell

Recheck the valves, if you didnt adjust the timing its doubtful that it adjusted itself.

chilli

iTrader: (2)

I would say that if all you did was header gasket and adjust valves then the logical thing would be to undo what you did, the header gasket aint got nothing to do with your problem I would be looking at valve adjustment yet agian. just my 2 cents.

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Ok well I'm trying to reset my timing thinking I did something wrong. My dist will only sit flush in one position. I'm trying to get so the rotor points to the #1 plug but it won't. No matter what I do it won't seat all the way down and when it does it's a tooth off. Any ideas? Just trying to start with some simple timing before I assume something internally is f-ed up and rip all back out again.

trumps2000

iTrader: (2)

The distributor will only sit flush when the oil pump notch is in the proper direction. When looking at the bottom of the distributor gear you'll see what I'm taling about, it will only go one of two ways, close and 180 deg off. I use an oil pump primer tool to align it where I want, but you could use a a really long flathead screwdriver to do the same.

GuitarJunki17

iTrader: (1)

The rotor doesn't HAVE to point directly at the #1 plug terminal at first (incase you moved the oil pump drive or something else that would throw initial timing off.) Get the rotor in the AREA of the #1 plug, and then you can put the cap back on and rotate the distributor by hand to make up for the few degrees you are off. The crossbar on the gear of the distributor has to line up with the oil pump gear. If you put it in backwards, the distributor will be 180 degrees out, and when you try to start the car, all you will get is a series of popping and sputtering. You can't really be 'a tooth off' as I have learned because if the distributor doesn't line up with the oil pump, the distributor will not seat on the intake. So you better make sure it is seating right to know you are getting it in that slot.

Just get a timing light on there and see where you stand when all is said and done.

89RsPower!

if it ran before you adjusted the valve lash the timing was close enough, I'd put my money on the valve lash being too tight..

GuitarJunki17

iTrader: (1)

In case of that, I would go back and relash them using this guide http://www.centuryperformance.com/valveadjustment.asp

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Thanks I'll use that guide to adjust them again. If one of them is too tight could that have damaged anything? I thought I heard something a knock when I tried to reset the timing and get it running again yesterday. I hope not tho. Would there be any visible damage when I take off the valve cover if the valve was hitting anything? Thanks again. Also I pulled a couple of the plugs yesterday too there black, not oily just black. Would that cause it to not start as well?

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Well I decided to do a compression test before I tore the valve cover off again on the pass side I got 138 being the lowest and 150 being the highest. Does that sound about right? I have the 195cc 72cc heads. Compression is supposed to be around 8.5:1. I was planning on installing a supercharger so I'm running lower compression. And when I pulled the plugs they were black. Not oily just a dry black. Any opinions on the compression test? Thanks

meyer30

iTrader: (2)

Correction I didn't have the throttle open when I did the test. So now the #'s are between 154 and 160 psi. A little better

GuitarJunki17

iTrader: (1)

If the rockers were lashed too tightly, then you could have bent a pushrod, which will later break under stress. If you want to double check them do the glass test. Take the pushrods and roll them across a piece of glass. You'll be able to tell if they are bent then. You'll see them bow and hop as you roll them.

Black plugs indicate a rich condition, looks like you have some computer tuning to do.