Wont Start
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Wont Start
I have 1990 Camaro 305 throttle body I think I have traced it down to the security system, wont let it start. I have found the large yellow wire under the dash turns into purple outside of the car is there a relay fuse or something elese between these two wires that will not let it start?
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks,
Steve
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Car: 89 TransAm
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Wont Start
Turn your key on...the security light should briefly come on...If it stays on, you have a VATS problem, if it comes on then goes off, security isn't your problem.
Vats problems aren't that common unless you have been tinkering with wiring.
Do you hear your fuel pump prime when you turn your key on? Could be a dead fuel pump.
Vats problems aren't that common unless you have been tinkering with wiring.
Do you hear your fuel pump prime when you turn your key on? Could be a dead fuel pump.
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Car: 89 TransAm
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: Wont Start
Vehicle Anti Theft System...VATS
You found a 'large yellow wire'...does your car have airbags...if so, LEAVE THE LARGE YELLOW WIRE ALONE.
Anyone jump in and correct me, but VATS came standard on all 89 and later f-bodies. That is what that little wafer/chip is on your car key is for. The VATS system wont allow the car to start if it doesnt detect the correct chip/key. IIRC, if the proper key isn't detected, vats wont allow power to be applied to the starter and the security light will stay illunimated. When you turn the key, all you'll hear is a slight click.
With VATS, there is a pair of small orange wires that run from the ignition switch, down the steering column and connect to a small connector just above the brake pedal.
Check that small connector, you'll have to remove the kick panel under your steering column to be able to see it. Carefully unplug and replug it... Try to start the car...see if your security light stays on.
That connector is easily broke, due to the age of the plastic in our cars so be careful. You may find it is already broke and just came unseated.
Does your key have the little chip in it? I have seen some that dont...heres how.
If there is no chip, somewhere along the way, the original ignition switch wore out and was replaced with a basic, non-chip switch. If that is the case, when you remove that kick panel, look for those 2 orange wires...if they are there, I bet you'll find the old ignition switch laying up there somewhere with the original key in it. Pull the key out, wiggle it back in and try to start the car. (Old guys dont laugh...I have seen this VATS trick, actually works pretty well for a vats workaround. As long as no one intends to steal your car)
Try to keep it simple with diagnosing your vats...check key, ignition switch, wiring in column, connector...you may find your problem there.
You found a 'large yellow wire'...does your car have airbags...if so, LEAVE THE LARGE YELLOW WIRE ALONE.
Anyone jump in and correct me, but VATS came standard on all 89 and later f-bodies. That is what that little wafer/chip is on your car key is for. The VATS system wont allow the car to start if it doesnt detect the correct chip/key. IIRC, if the proper key isn't detected, vats wont allow power to be applied to the starter and the security light will stay illunimated. When you turn the key, all you'll hear is a slight click.
With VATS, there is a pair of small orange wires that run from the ignition switch, down the steering column and connect to a small connector just above the brake pedal.
Check that small connector, you'll have to remove the kick panel under your steering column to be able to see it. Carefully unplug and replug it... Try to start the car...see if your security light stays on.
That connector is easily broke, due to the age of the plastic in our cars so be careful. You may find it is already broke and just came unseated.
Does your key have the little chip in it? I have seen some that dont...heres how.
If there is no chip, somewhere along the way, the original ignition switch wore out and was replaced with a basic, non-chip switch. If that is the case, when you remove that kick panel, look for those 2 orange wires...if they are there, I bet you'll find the old ignition switch laying up there somewhere with the original key in it. Pull the key out, wiggle it back in and try to start the car. (Old guys dont laugh...I have seen this VATS trick, actually works pretty well for a vats workaround. As long as no one intends to steal your car)
Try to keep it simple with diagnosing your vats...check key, ignition switch, wiring in column, connector...you may find your problem there.
#5
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Re: Wont Start
Don't worry, I sure won't laugh at your suggestion since that's exactly how I "fixed" the VATS problem in my 89. Probably the most common reason that the VATS system fails is the fact that those two skinny little wires are rotated every time you turn the key, so they end up breaking inside the insulation eventually, causing a bad connection. So I did what was suggested above. I removed the original VATS key cylinder/wires from the steering column, repaired the wires, shoved the original key back in, and just tucked it up above the driver's side kick panel. Then I went to the parts store and just bought a standard style ignition cylinder w/key, and put that back in the column. It fits in a VATS style column with no trouble, and only cost me $12, compared to $50 or $60 for a new VATS key cylinder, plus having to pay a dealership to use the VATS interrogator to configure the new cylinder to the code in the VATS module. This really is the best way to fix it if the problem is broken wires. The first time I just repaired the wires and re-installed it back into the column. About a month later the wires broke again, and I had to take the damn column apart at night in a truck stop parking lot. You can still protect your car from theft too. All you have to do is reach up under the dash and pull the original key out of the VATS cylinder, and the car won't start.
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