dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

OK well here is the deal for those of you who don't know me here on TGO.

I have a 91 built from the ground up, I will keep the mods simple, just cuz the list would go on for a long time.

Motor is most important since this thread is about making more power.

-74 truck block, 4 bolt mains, 383 (acctually 385, cuz it needed to be bored out a little more due to one cylinder having a scratch)
-Forged Eagle Crank
-Forged Rods and pistons
- Trickflow Kenny Dewinter 23* Aluminum heads
-195cc Intake
-75cc Exhaust
-2.02, 1.6
-Double roller timing...
-Mallory HEI dizzy
-Edelbrock Vic. Jr intake
-Holly 750 DP
-NX 150 shot of nitrouse (please note that the plate's bars were misaligned when the dyno pull was done, so only look at the NA pull)
Cam specs.


-1" spacer
-Nitouse plate
-Hooker long tubes, 2210s.
-7qrt. Kickout pan.
-Hydrolic roller lifters, special ones made to work in my non-roller bolck.
-Roller rockers.

I think thats all, that set up gave me...

Dyno pull with minor tunning and a 1" spacer as well as a 3/8" N2O plate.




So here is the deal. I called up the dyno shop, turns out a new ZO6 puts down 450HP on that same dyno. What do you guys think I can do to this motor to be able to play with #s like that??? This cam is allready pushing the streetable limits. She is Loud and loapy. Just the way I like it.


Car also has a 4" exhaust, T-56, 12 bolt Moser rear with 4.11s, and I run 335 rear tire right now. Soon to be fresh 315s. oh and a chromoly driveshaft.


There is no way I am going TURBO, and I realy really don't wanna go supercharger, I already have the N20 to get me up to those #s, but wanna be able to spray past them. Help me out. Thanks and sorry for the long post.

BMmonteSS

In a nutshell, better heads and another 50 cubes, and possibly a dry sump setup. Running with one of the most powerfull engines ever stuck in a production car is not going to be easy.


Really you may look to optimize what you have, it appears that your HP peak is a bit low for the size cam you have. At around 6k you start to run into problems getting the HEI to fire correctly. Also valve float will rear it's ugly head at around 6k.

Being down 50 cubes and probably 50 cfm of flow on the heads is going to be hard to overcome without some form of forced induction.

Lo-tec

open the bottle and push the button

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Yea, your 195cfm heads and that big cam may not be the perfect match.
210cc AFR heads, and a solid roller of roughly the same specs. Maybe a smidge bigger. Perhaps 7/16" rocker studs and a stud girdle to keep it together. You ran out of jam at 6000RPM with a 246/254 cam eh? That's valve float or spark miss. I'd look into both and try to get that spinning higher. That probably needs the solid roller and bigger valve springs though.

It's a shame to toss away great parts, to get even better ones. That's why nitrous is pretty great in your situation. Bigger jets maybe?

That's still some great power though, especially with the nitrous. I'd try to get the suspension up to snuff such that you can LAUNCH (pure definition of that word) the car. Getting a real "grip" with ~425RWHP will leave just about any street car (yep, even an '07 LS7) in the dust - as long as John Force isn't driving the other car.

ljnowell

I dont think he needs a dry sump or more cubes. I think he needs a different set of heads and an appropriate cam.

19doug90

im on board with everyone here, sell those heads and buy a set of AFR 210's definitly better suited to your setup.

also agree that youre probably having some valve float issues up top

im not a big carb guy but isnt a 750 a tad on the small side? and definitly would be if you stepped up to a 210cc head

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, I understand that better heads would be great, but I really don't think that the power will be there. I would rather not have to go through the trouble of selling my trickflows and getting AFRs and so on. I am kinda, only kinda, playing with the idea of a supercharger. What would you guys recomend? I really like root blowers, but I don't think I can get a nice one under my hood. I have seen other guys run the low pro ones, but they don't ever make the kinda power I am looking for. Are they not pushing them or what?

There is always the centrifugal styles. They are great for clearance. Only problem is that I have read that they make power higher up, where as I would like to make more down low. But with that said, I think I will only be making the big power up high anyways, so maybe this would be a better choice for me.

And lastly, I don't wanna loose a crap load of gas milage due to the blower. I do drive this car quite a bit and wanna keep it as high as possible. Does adding a blower srew all this up? Thanks for the help.

19doug90

youre right i dont think its going to net you an extra 100 hp, 60-70 is reasonable tho with a real good tune and no valve float or ignition issues

remember youre comparing it to a 400 smallblock, totally different animal

matt_p

If you want a 383 sbc to make the same power as a 427 LS motor, then you can forget about power down low. Trickflow 215's or afr 210s or a centrifigul supercharger. Maybe both

Get beehive springs aswell, more stable up high without too much seat pressure.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

Centrifugal supercharger == Turbo with a pulley

You get turbo lag, and leeched engine power. A loss/loss! Go roots style and get a cowl hood. Or fab up a badass turbo system.

5678TA

you're gonna want to peak that motor up to 6500+.. higher you can make it rev, more power can be had..

more things to the list: (all i can think of to walk a Z06, maybe even run away )
solid roller-maybe something out of the lunati voodoo lineup
AFR 210cc heads or possibly 195 competition(CNC) eliminators
stud girdle
light weight valvetrain
950HP carb (flows around 820-840cfm, its just called a 950)
port the Vic. Jr. to the correct intake gasket and smooth out the inside


what kind of compression are you running?

jbenge

iTrader: (2)

I agree with what some of the others said, I would look into getting a different set of heads and different cam. Not sure what your compression is now but I would shoot for 11:1, to go as high as you can and still use pump gas. Get some heads in the 210-220cc range that flow 290+cfm, AFR is always a great choice or some fully ported Dart or Brodix heads would work well too. To take full advantage of heads like that you need a well matched solid roller cam, something similar to what I'm running. You will be amazed at what good flowing heads and a solid roller cam will do for your combo. I used to have a hyd. roller similar to yours and 10:1 compression, huge difference once I went to the solid cam and 11:1. The car has power power in all RPM ranges and revs much quicker and higher(I've become a huge believer in solid roller cams ). And I didn't loose any streetabilty, it drives well on the street. Staying N/A and upgrading the cam and heads is the most simple way to make more power but if gas mileage is a concern that might not be the best route to go for you.
I would look at a pro-charger if you want to think about a power adder, I've seen some mild pro-charger combos that made crazy power and got decent gas mileage.

19doug90

whats a split second of lag when youve got more torque then you could ever hope to put to the ground. Thats the nice thing about motors bigger then 2L, torque makes up for that

Lo-tec

Initial post:

There is no way I am going TURBO, and I realy really don't wanna go supercharger, I already have the N20 to get me up to those #s, but wanna be able to spray past them. Help me out. Thanks and sorry for the long post.

Then you're talking about superchargers.

What did your engine dyno N/A and on NOS? Nothing is noted in your dynograph.

If you want LS7 dyno #'s, get an LS7. Lets do some math:

44 less cubic inches + inferior heads<LS7 (way less)

44 less cubic inches + awesome heads + unstreetable cam = dyno queen

My serious suggestion would be to work out the issues with your engine. As noted above in multiple posts it has some problems (ignition, valve float, ??). That setup should pull and make good power to at least 6500 rpm. Fix that and add the spray and you'll have a killer street car.

btw, what's it run down the 1/4?

5678TA

you are a bit off the powerband of your cam.. with the 385, it should pull to roughly 6400 rpm.. my 385 pulls to around 6700, i'd guess (limiter is at 6500) with a solid flat cam rated to 7k.. did you port your vic. jr.?? is it the standard one or the 1205 ported?? you could try rev-kit too..


more info on your cam...

Rough idle, excellent top-end power, 3,200-6,800 rpm powerband. 3,000-3,500 rpm stall converter.
Compression: 10.0:1 minimum

246°/254°
.372/.372
.558/.558
112°

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

imo if you want 100 more rwhp you're going to need more heads. Those flow about 200, iirc. That's crap when you're talking performance. You need something between 275-300 with a custom cam to match them, you will easily find your power.

Spend some time tuning your suspension and you might find mid-low 11s, that's where those z06s run.

TheScaryOne

iTrader: (3)

But it's very far from efficient. A roots style would make a good chunk more power over the whole RPM band, and a turbo would make more power in the same band range as the centrifugal supercharger. Both would require more work though, and that's why the centrifugal superchargers become popular.

ibmtech

iTrader: (1)

Either way by going with a turbo or Blower you will increase your peak output. I went with Vortech and in some ways I wish I went with ProCharger and other ways went Twin Turbos. It is a matter of preference of what you want. But, it does look like you could use a better set of heads. And if you do go forced induction go with a blower cam.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

AFR eliminators in 210cc and solid roller cam for sure. 11.5:1 or so with a lot of overlap and you should be fine, or just jet it higher, no reason you can't whack it with a 200 or bigger shot if your ring gaps are set up for it and you're keeping timing and A/F ratio along with enough spark energy constant.

5678TA

you guys know dennisbernal91z doesnt want forced induction, so why push the subject?? its just extra reading material on this thread

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Well thanks for all the info on the forced induction. I guess the reason why I said I didn't want it, and then talked about it was cuz I wanted people to feel free to input any awsome setups that they had, that maybe ran the #s that I wanted. If the forced induction was WAY cheaper/easier to deal with, then yeah I would prbably bite the bullet and go that direction.

Anyways, with that said....

What do you guys think if I just port the heads, intake?? Nothing is ported right now, all just slapped togeather.

My rings are set up for nitrouse. Someone asked that. I also have a cowl hood too. Here is a pic of the car as she sits now.



Oh and for my suspention, I have all Spohn stuff pretty much, I also have a PA K-memeber and A-arms. KYB AGX shocks.

Thats all I can think of now...

So far seems like the easiest thing to do, is get a way to play with the timing so I can spray it more...

nelapse

iTrader: (17)

You need only two things both of which are free.

You need to learn how to tune, and learn how to drive.

If you can do both well, you should be able to beat anyone in a midlife crisis mobile.

SSC

To make it simple your going to have to go power adder or bigger engine to make up for the weight difference. My truck will flat spank my C6 from 0-80 but my car is a just an LS2 with some minor mods.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

You thought about sealing the carb to the cowl?

What about a torque arm? Set up for low angle? Does it grab good and hard? Harder rear springs? Stiffen up the AGX on the rears?

Porting those heads might work. I'd look at trading them in for a bigger style, you might be able to sell them for some decent cash.
Porting the intake is a good idea too.

Troubleshooting your high RPM power loss is a good idea. I might even look at a stud girdle now. BTE's one is pretty good from what i've heard.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

fuel pressure dropping at higher rpms? spark cutting out? etc etc. You really need a digital 6 box or equiv. to run higher nitrous amounts, and a 200 shot shouldn't be that big of a deal. If you need any answers just let me know, i'm sure you got my AIM name.

PS I have a buddy with a vortec combo that put down about the same HP with less cam, so you're leaving a lot on the table.

84z28350

sorry to jack the thread but what type of hood is that dennis?

Looks like a nice hood, i hate when someone buys a cowl hood with a ton of bracing hanging out underneath, makes it look like crap!

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Ok, let me address a couple things here. First off thanks for liking the hood. It is a 3" Cervini hood. Great hood, I would HIGHLY recomend it.

As for my suspention, I have a spohn adjustable TQ arm, Nice piece. It is set to 1* right now. As for the shocks, I know I need to play with them, I also need new tires, these used Viper tires are getting tired. This is all known info by me, so I am going to ask people to not comment on stuff like, learn how to drive, and stuff like that. The thread is about how to get 100 more HP, not to tell me that I need to know how to drive, essecially since you have never seen me drive and I have no complaints about being beat by any kind of car. I am just curiouse about the 100 HP.

Anyways, back on topic.

As for fule pressure, no problems there at all, nice and stong pressure straight up to 5500, so I am confident in me fuel system.

I am not so confident in my spark though. I have always had a problem getting the spark to be strong. Back when I got the motor fired up I had problems and that turned out to be the culprit. Now she drives fine, but I bet there is more power to be had there (spark).

As for running a box, I know I need one, I have a Mallory 6-AL box, but it turned out to be defective and needs to be sent in for repair, so that is what I am waiting for.



Here is a real question for you guys, do these HEIs always crap out around 6000? What is the best way around this problem? Getting one of those crank trigger systems? I could allways do that. Get that, a new/working box, new plugs, wires are MSD and good... with all that, combined with a ported intake, and maybe play with spacers on the dyno. You guys think that maybe I could get some more power out of her? oh also get a really nice rev kit and/or girdle...

With all that stuff you think it will rev higher, and make more power???

I know I am not gonna get 100, and I will have the $ for the dyno results, but I think its a pretty good starting point right???

I don't want the extra power so bad that I am willing to change heads, I would consider intakes, carbs, and maybe a cam, but I wanna stay roller.

So please lemme know what you guys think about the crank trigger, or any other kinds of "better than HEI" set-ups. Also if you think porting and getting a bigger, more adjustable carb would help, (like a proform...)

Thanks again, Dennis.
----------
One last thing, should I get one of those nitrous retard boxes, if I plan on running a 200 shot or so? I keep reading that you need to retard timing a few degrees for every so much nitrous, but I don't wanna adjust timing at home and go use it and get home and put it back. I wanna be able to use a big shot whenever I want. Is the box the way to go then? Thanks again.

I feel like a douch not knowing enough about this, haha. I am usually pretty well read before I ask questions. But when it comes to N20, I don't really know all that much.

so, thanks in advance.

-Dennis

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

get a nice small cap billet MSD distributor along with the digital 6 box, which has built in retard for starting and nitrous. With a bigger stall you can lock out the timing since it has start retard feature and tune for most HP/TQ on the dyno. This dizzy won't have vacuum advance either, so don't buy that one. Get a matching MSD coil and you should be all set, some "good" wires, and gap those plugs tighter for the extra shot.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

You can always walk over and turn back your distributor, so you can run the big nitrous shot. But then you plan on running your nitrous "tonight", and back off the timing. Then after the evening is over, you walk over and bring back the timing, and you're not planning on using the nitrous anymore that night. Kinda sucks if you want to use nitrous RIGHT NOW without planning it, but it's a heck of a lot cheaper than a retard box. Besides, you can't run nitrous on the street anyway right?

HEI isn't so bad, a stock one like i'm running leaves something to be desired. Aftermarket coil and module sets you right up. You're runnning an aftermarket distributor, so I don't think "HEI" in general is your problem. There's got to be a way to measure the quality, or strength, of your spark, at 6300RPM under cylinder pressure. I don't know how, but there's GOT to be a way. I think I saw a tool recently for this, that clips onto your plug wire, and has a little glass tube...Maybe look into that?

I think you've got more cam than you have heads already, so I wouldn't really look into more cam right now. Maybe a rev kit, or a stud girdle however.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

OK, so from the looks of it, I am going to go ahead and get an MSD dizzy, an MSD coil, as well as a new MSD 6-AL box, and might as well get new plugs too, properly gapped.

That should get my spark up and running better.

With those parts, do I not need the extra retard box? I don't care about price, I would rather have the conviniece of not having to touch the motor when I am out. I wanna have the RIGHT NOW ability, thats why I am getting a heater/cooler, and bottle opener. I am also inclined to get that Zex plate that has no bars. Looks more efficient.

Now on the the reving...

Anyone have suggestions? Or part numbers that are good? Or do you guys want me to fish around and post parts to get your suggestions on them?

Please let me know. thanks again.

-Dennis

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

skip the 6AL box, as you'd need a retard box, go right for the digital 6 box, it'll be less wiring and all in one unit. Spark gaps will need to be tighter for how much spray you want to use, typically we are around .035 with a high energy ignition and .045 on N/A.


The 6AL box is only a rev limiter, not a retard box, Digital 6 is all in one kinda deal. Summit also has a house brand box, which IIRC is similar for a little less coin, although I have no idea who makes it. I always toss in the digital 6 and call it good.

rx7speed

honestly if done right and taking two motors both making the same peak power the turbo should make a flatter power band.
again that is with a properly sized turbo setup right.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

xpndbl3: Are you saying then that all I need is a digital 6 box and thats it? No additional retard box? And thanks for the specs on the gaps, I will make sure to try and run those first later this month when I get the $ to do all this. I will look up some part #s and post them here so I am making 100% sure I am finally getting the right stuff. Thanks so much for all the help so far.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

OK, so here is the box I found on summit.

MSD-6520

Is that the one that I should be looking at?

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Not to sound like I am totally lost here, but out of the dozens of MSD dizzies, whick one do I want?

I searched summitracing.com and used the chriteria:
-Chevy
-MSD Ignition
-Distributors
-V8
-5.7/350

Then I tried adding different kinds of advance, like mechanical and none. Don't I want some kind of advance? I know it was mentioned that I don't want vacume, so does that mean I want mech.???

With thses parameters there are still 27 to choose from.

If I say I want mechanical advance, I am left with 13...ummm...

If I add

-marine use: no
-Ignition box required: yes (still looking at mech advance)

I end up with 10. Still quite a few choices with prices ranging from $232-$488.

OK, I have done more searching and finally figured out what a slip collar was. Wow do I feel stupid. Anyways, I have come to my first "best dizzy for me" guess:

MSD-85551

Would you all agree? That box I posted earlier and this dizzy?

I am off to look up some stuff on girdles. Thanks for all the help so far.

Ok well I went back to summit and found these: TFS-30400700

Are those the stud girdles that I want? They say that they should fit my heads/valve covers.

Is that all I need to rev higher? What about the lifters bouncing around? I have seen rev kits that have a lot of springs that intall under your intake to give more pressure on the lifers during high revs. SHould I be looking into this too? Thanks again, and sorry for all the posting.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

the box is the one you want. has a rev limiter, retard control for nitrous use, and a starter retard all built into one simple box. I'd also get a blaster coil, or if it'll have extended high rev use then the blaster hvc coil, PN 8252, along with MSD wires, MSD Heli-Core or 8.5mm Super Conductor Wire. As for the dizzy, you'd want a small cap one, slip collar if you've had the block decked or the intake cut, mechanical advance only, you can still lock it out as/if needed.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Wow thanks for all the help xpndbl3. I have the 8.5mm wires already, so I guess that helps, haha. I will get that box, that coil and that small cap dizzy with mech advance. I have a stock edel. Vic. Jr. intake and I think my motor is all stock too exect the normal machining to get it up to snuff for the fresh motor build. I might get the slip collar just cuz its only $20 more and might save hastle down the road.

Is that dizzy that I posted the one that I want?

I don't plan on high reving this motor a whole lot, it is just a street car that I am going to crusie in and drive to work when it is nice out. I just wanna feel confident that she can take a beating and keep on ticking for years to come. I would rather build up whatever I can to overkill status for piece of mind. Is there a downside to the higher reving suited coil, when not high reving?

Thanks again. This is one of the most informative threads I have been in, in a very long time.

Arctic White 91 RS

As it stands, your behind the 07 Z06 on cubes, hp, torque, curve, & weight so you can make another 100hp and still not be on par with a 427/7 liter Z06Corvette.

You lose even if you make the same power the Z06 is making. Actually, you'll still lose if you make a little more power than the Z06 even if you both hook up.

I think you need weight reduction.

Re-build your engine for spraying a big shot. Your current set up with the short block set up to take a 300+ shot plus some weight reduction.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

I have a good amount of weight taken off my car. I have no heat, AC, racing seats, FG hood, and no power steering. Not to mention all my suspention is tubular including my K-member. That is all the weight reduction I am going to do. Anything else in my eyes is not worth it for a street car.

If me and the corvette hooked I think with my 4.11s and T-56 I could at least keep up if I had a shot of juice.

Oh and my motor is allready built to take a spray of 300+, it has forged everything and nitrous rings.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

kind of a random side question that should probably be in a seperate thread, but has anyone ever run their plug wires under their hooker 2210's? Or know of someone who has?

After I get all this new ignition stuff, I kinda wanna clean up the clutter a little.

I am gonna spend the extra time and $ to hide all the ignition stuff in the interior, i.e. box and coil. I will use an HEI bulkhead to pass it though the firewall.

Thanks for any help.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I personally haven't run wires under the headers, since if they move a bit they will get burnt, I run them to look like a giant spider I guess is the best way to put it. All 4 wires on either side run out like spider legs, then go to each plug, so they aren't covering the valve covers since I reset lash evry 150-200 miles and disconnecting them is a pain. That digital 6 box will like being on the inside away from heat, but will need proper airflow, so don't put it in a spot where it'll be boxed in, like where the factory computer would be for instance. If you left that lower kick panel cover off I assume it'll be alright, I mount them there for buddies cars and usually then don't even have the cover regardless. That dizzy you posted looks fine, I would see if MSD has a group package dealy on their website that'll have the coil, box, and dizzy, you might save some bucks that way.


PS come to chicago, I want a crack at that car
We have 3 nice tracks within 1.5hours

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the help xpndbl3. I will def check with MSD if they have any packages like you mentioned. Maybe they do, who knows. I am it will take me a bit to get to it all though cuz first in line is my C5 brake upgrade, with the works. So that will be like 3 weeks worth of work and then then after that all the ignition stuff will be another 3 weeks. In 1.5 months (rough estimate) I will bring my car to the "local" track. 1 hour away, and see what it can do. Then we can compare times. Its like you are virtually taking a crack at my car, haha.

LOL, just for fun I checked how many hours it would be for me to drive to Chicago. I wonderfull 15+ hours. haha. If you wanna come here, lemme know.

Oh one last thing. You seem to know what you are talking about, do you have any suggestion in terms of tires? I was looking into the BF Goodrich G-force KDWs or something like that. The ones with the big block like tread pattern. I wanna run 315s in the back and 275 or so in the front. Right now I am running 335s and 275. Thanks again for all your help.

-Dennis

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

I run my plug wires under the 2210's..and mountd my Digi 6 box inside the car..

with the plug wires I was only able to run 2 on each side under....on the passenger side the front 2 cant pass under because of that one tube in the way and on the drivers was only able to run the 1st and last plug wire under....so atleast some of the wires got hidden..looks pretty good.

I got pictures if you need them

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Definetly. I wanna hide them the best I can. What about those looms that sorts them vertically next to the valve covers? Those seem ok, but I will have to see more pics b4 I make a decition.

But yeah, wouldn't hurt to see pics of yours. Thanks a lot.

-Dennis

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

i also think you should be having more power in that setup than 350whp. thats a big cam, should be atleast 400whp in that setup.

then with the nitrous you can get well over 450whp.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Well to really hook you're looking at the 315 size M/T drag radials on the street, if it'll see some rain then the nittos aren't too bad, but won't hook nearly as well as the M/T. It's all a trade off, but at the track Hoosier or ET drags in a 28x10.50 would be a nice compliment to your car I'd imagine, don't know how it'll hook on the 26" tire if you don't have enough gearing, but on spray I'd guess the 28s would be a good combo for sure.

Wishmaster's87IROC

iTrader: (4)

ok ...heres some pictures of the sparkplug wires running under the 2210's..you cant see them real good but you get the idea didnt get the right angle...on the passenger side you can see that one primary tube that if you were to run the 1st two wires they would rub that tube...and on the drivers side there would have been to much wire clutter under there and I didnt want them touching..the wire looms Im use were my old center bolt madeforyou wire looms..they worked out good for what I needed them to do.
also of where I got my digi 6 box mounted....it stays nice and cool and clean never had a problem out of it since its been in....only thing is you can here the resistors buzzing in it...where I have it mounted makes it real easy to make ajustments to it...and on the opposite side of the console from the box I have my digital WIndow switch for my Nitrous

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Sorry but what is a digital window switch?

Is the window switch the switch that activates the N20?

Can you please elaborate? I understand where you mounted the box, but I don't really understand your description of where the window switch is mounted.

Thanks for all the help and the pics. (I can't see them cuz I am at work and this PC sux, but I will check them out first thing when I get home.)

-Dennis

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

bump... please

xpndbl3: I am looking into Nitto 555Rs for the back, and Nitto 555RIIs for the front. I think that would be like getting the best of both worlds, in terms of handling, drivability, and straight line traction. What do you think?

This summer is turning out to be more work/$ than I expected.... haha. What a wonderful hobby we have!

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

xpndbl3: I have been talking in another thread that had a topic about S/C and they seemed to make some pretty good points about how easy it is to make crazy power with just a few PSI. Definetly sparked my interest. So I read it and am now considering a S/C pushing a few PSI as an option. Maybe like 8 or so. (I really have no idea), haha.

Anyways, my first question for you is about the ignition box and stuff. Is that digital 6 box still my best choice if I end up going S/C? I would guess YES. But wanna make sure with you. I think I would still keep the N20, but just down tune it to a 50 shot maybe. I think selling it would be a waste as I wouldn't get that much for it. Plus it would be fun at shows, when people see both power adders. haha.

Well hope you can shed some light on the subject. I am gonna go spend a few hours reading the POWER ADDER threads so I can have an intelligent conversation about the stuff