xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

no that digital 6 box won't have the setting for boost retard IIRC, that would have to be a boost retard box on a 6AL or similar that will take out X amount of timing per pound of boost. Also supercharging a carb car would take a boost friendly carb, which yours would need more work. Your floats will collapse, under pressure, etc. If you already have the nitrous kit and it'll support more spray I'd just stay with that. Otherwise you'll be spending thousands more to changeover to a different setup and if you really want to be boost friendly a 8.5:1 shortblock should be used for max power.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, i know I need to swap carbs and stuff, I was going to get a proform next moth anyways, just for the added adjust ability and choke delete. Sux to hear that the box wont do what I want. Oh well. Maybe I am getting ahead of myself. I just wanted to get my HP #s up there this summer, but I guess I should try the juice first since i allready have it, and the motor was built to like it. I don't have the right compression anyways, and at 1000 miles that the car has now, it is just too soon to get in there and change pistons. Ugh. OK, well i guess I will stick to ALLLL your N20 advice and stay on that course. I also wanna do a full C5 Z06 front and back set-up. That, combined with the N20, box, ign, dizzy, bottle opener, heater and so on will keep me busy all summer.


xpndbl3: another question for you, (sorry that I have so many). I saw on summitracing.com that they have 2 different kinds of bottle openers, a little motor style that opens the stock valve, or you can get a much cheaper electrical valve. What would you recommend? Is there some sort of major downside to the valve? thanks.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

well the electric motor one is cool, but everytime you get the bottle filled you have to take it off or bring a small battery with you to open and close the valve to fill the bottle. I like to mount my bottle in the pass rear seat bottom cushion area and just turn my body slightly and open it by hand rather than the bottle opener out of the spare tire well. Never used the cheaper valve, I believe my buddy told me it restricts flow for 250-300 shot range, I just am too cheap to buy one.

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the heads up. That sounds true, since it is a relatively small orifice valve. Maybe I will just get the cheapest top motor style. I am too scared of cops seeing my bottle to mount it where yours is. I don't think it is illegal to have in the car here, but they might get a little more pissed, if ya know what I mean.

While on the topic of N20, what bottle heater are you running if any? I was looking stuff up and found that there are 2 kinds.
1) Temperature controlled
2) Pressure controlled

#2 is more expensive, and it makes sense why. The heater actually keeps the bottle at the right pressure, the other is sort of a guess based on temps and stuff. Not too reassuring when I have it mounted in my trunk that can stay really cool. Thanks for any advice, I think this might actually be my last question dealing with this stuff, ha ha. Maybe I can use it soon....

Shinobi'sZ

I hate to burst your bubble but simply adding a 100 more whp is not going to keep your car on par with an 07 Z06. I know guys that ran their stock C5 Z06s to the mid 11's in the quarter. Here is a link to the Z06 fast list on the the CF.

Unless you are just wanting to show similiar power numbers from a dyno run.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-z...fast-list.html

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-z...fast-list.html

dennisbernal91z

iTrader: (2)

You are not bursting any bubbles. This thread was started cuz I wanted tips that could get my HP numbers up thats it.

And again, this was purely at the dyno, not a road course, or driving characteristics at all. Although with that said I am pretty sure once I get this thing dialed in it won't have any problem keeping up with a C5 ZO6, the next build will keep up with anyuthing. Stay tunned. allthough not as good on gas, or as quite, but thats the price you pay for not having to pay the price of one of those vettes.

(plus getting to build it was fun)

And one last 2 cents I can toss in the bin, to the last poster. The thread is about advice to attain a goal, not to shoot down someones ambitions. This is one of the main reasons why I don't bother with TGO anymore. No real help, just people posting for the sake of posting.

I am out

Shinobi'sZ

I was certainly not trying to shoot down your ambitions..for I have similiar ambitions for my 91 Firebird. That's why I said I was not trying to burst your bubble...just providing you some reference points. It takes more then just hp to keep with another car or dial in the same times....if you are shooting for dyno numbers alone then that is one thing...but to say on par with vehicle that boast the hp/efficiency and balance of a newer car such as a C6 Z would take a total reconfig of our cars....hell the new Camaro will not even be on par with the C6Z or a C5Z..it takes more then hp. The new Camaro V6 version even produces 300hp.

To save money and have fun, I have done and performed all of the wrenching (modding) on all of my LS powered vehicles...and I like you am searching for modifications that will make my 91 drive and perform similar to my 01 Z06 (when it was stock) with respect to straight line performance...but it has been a while since I blew up that motor and have been driving only FI'd versions of the car.....quite a few different versions. In fact I have forgotten what stock felt like. As for keeping up with a C5Z...with like drivers and the same amount of hp I am doubtful that a 3rd gen could keep pace on a straight line or on a road course (HPDE)...for which the C5 & C6s Zs are really designed (balanced) to shine on....346cid turning 11.7 @ 116 mph...it's about weight as well. How much hp (modding +$$) does it take to get a 3rd Gen on street tires into the 11's? And if you keep going up in mph....the C5 will get up past 175 mph. A non Z06 C5 out accelerates a 1st Gen Viper from 150-170+ mph base on drag coefficient alone....not hp.

As for TGO I have been getting a lot of useful info from the knowledge base on this forum with respect to L98 TPI performance....this great info and as a noob with TPI (there were no mods like this when I sold my 87 TPI 15 years ago), I am finding people on here to be very helpful...I was just trying to help you with information (to be on par) pertaining to a C6 Z06. My friends 346cid H&C, CAI, LT header car....dyno'd 470/420 rwhp/tq. You can't do the same to an L98 and get the same power.

The best tip (and one that I have comtemplated for my own use) is to stuff a LS1/6 427 in my 91 (your) bird in order to be on par (with dyno #s) with a modded C5 or C6Z. The reason I won't go there is becaue I am not trying to get this particular car to perform like a C5 or C6. But there is definetly room to make a much better performer just with L98/TPI mods.

wildviper44

well i agree with what guys are saying above me about the heads and cam, but i'd also recommend changing that 750 carb to a 1050 dominator, it'll add some horses for relatively cheap compared to buying a power adder which you said you don't want. and if you DO decide to get a blower/supercharger or turbo set-up, i'd go with a rootes blower. just my opinion. its expensive though like you said.