ive saw a million post with no answer are cars keep dieing while driving around not starting ect. ive got it narrowed down to 2 things igniton control module or pick up coil whick one is it and why does it keep going bad this is the 3rd dizzy ive had in this car

Mine died twice and it was due to the module. After the 2nd time it died, I got rid of all the stock ignition stuff. Cause? possible overheating of the module, or it didn't like trying to keep up with the engine that was turning 7,000 rpm. Make sure you smear some dielectric grease on the back where it contacts the distributor body to dissipate the heat better.

I found out thru my brother in law(he is a elec. engineer) that you do not want to use dielectric grease be cause it actually traps the heat.
What you want to use is heat sink grease, you can get it at radio
shack.

It has been my experience that ignition modules do go bad from time to time. A lot of replacement modules fail because of inferior parts and lack of proper insulating grease. Some after market replacement modules do not have the timing and dwell tables of a GM unit. Some cheap units have fixed dwell.

r u serious i think im about to have to replace another one and it aint even been a month. but this time it misses from start wat is a good aftermarket module ive got accel 8.5 wires and msd coil

Had a brain fart, that's the stuff.

MSD. Accell, for performance. Standard Ignition products for stock replacement. I have seen the Accell HEI coil (grey) fail on two buddy’s cars at the same time so I would be leery of Accell. I have seen a lot of modules come with clear dielectric grease in the box. I read a few years back in a magazine that this was not the stuff to use and use heat sink grease as listed above. I have seen guys reuse the white stuff GM used. What is your plug gap? Old trick is to set the gap on .35 to make the engine rev higher and avoid missfire.

It's either something outside of the distributor, or something that's killing the distributor (which means it's outside of the distributor).

Coil comes to mind. Not part of the distributor, but a bad one can kill a perfectly good ignition module.

well my coil is a new msd could the esc have something to do with the problem

...bump

Which one?

Have a 90 TPI on a Chevy 350 on my Willys truck build. TPI was on my other Jeep for a few years with no trouble. timing is right on, fuel press about 38- 40, filter clean. threw a code for Knock sensor, replaced it, now no codes. Starts easy, runs great for 5-6 min. then loads up coughs sputters but idles fine. If I let it sit for a while starts right up, runs great again and then same problem.. gettin ready to start throwin wrenches....
Coil or maybe ign mod ?? any thoughts ?

I just posted this on another thread with respect to my 90' 3.1 car that was acting up. Ended up being a bad fuel injector. When an injector goes bad or is intermittent it will ground out the computer. On my other thread the car broke down twice this morning (has 19K original miles on it) and I had to get it diagnosed...so I took it to a shop near where I work. For $80 the guy told me it was the #1 fuel injector. Now I could have went on a parts replacement adventure but it was worth it to have it diagnosed.

How I know the guy isn't bullsh!tiing me. If I disconnect the #1 fuel injector the car will start, if I connect it it will not start. Pretty cool...now I just should replace all the injectors as they are probably going bad if one of them is.

Intresting..Mine does start and run. So I took the ICM to autozone it checked BAD.. replaced it still same problem...guess the guy got his commission anyway........ Sooooo looking back at fuel, I rigged a gauge inside the cab where I could watch it and headed back around the block press. good at 40 psi then droped to about 20 psi and motor started loading up again. Allready replaced the intank pump once.. guess the pressure reagulator is next in line....

Did you check your fuel injectors?