fearthisinc

Ok. I really want to get this thing running properly and more efficient. I posted a while back that when I had the fuel filter changed the mechanic told me that there was rust mixed in with the fuel which he said is probably what is causing the long starts.. (my car has to crank for a while to finally turn over)... anyway.. i am thinking of just ordering a new tank for the car... Now while I am at it what else should I replace or upgrade? I was thinking of getting a new fuel pump.. So here are my questions...

Anything else besides the tank and pump that I should replace?

How much would I be looking at in labor if I have a shop take the tank out and put in a new on in along with a new pump?

Also should I get a stock in-tank pump or should I get an external pump?

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

Might as well do everything involved with dropping the tank.
A new sending unit would be good insurance.
I would upgrade your intake pump.

No idea on what you'd get charged. You could call a shop and ask.

ploegi

Long crank time may also be a failed fuel pump relay. Do you hear the pump prime when you first turn the key on?

jv9999

iTrader: (1)

I doubt that's the cause of your long crank time. I would look at other options (like the FP relay) before I went and ripped the tank out. Have you put a fuel pressure gauge on it?

fearthisinc

The guy seemed the think that maybe the "screen" or whatever was clogged up and that was preventing the fuel from getting through.. And yes.. When I turn the key to the on position I hear the fuel pump prime up..

88gta_hiflyer

iTrader: (1)

You might want to make sure your mechanic is familar with your paticular engine before you pay him to start tearing things apart. Is your engine a tpi? I'm not sure what screen he would be talking about.

ploegi

Think he is talking about the 'sock' on the fuel pump.

fearthisinc

engine is a tpi... where is the fuel pump relay located??? and if i do hear the pump prime up i assume that means the relay is perfectly fine right??

camaronewbie

If you hear the pump prime, then the relay is fine. The reason for suggesting looking into the relay is 'cause if the relay is bad, the pump will still run off the Oil Pressure Sending Unit, but it won't prime, meaning it takes a few moments for the starter to turn the motor enough to build up enough oil pressure so the pump will kick in with the OPSU, and then a few more moments for the pump to get the gas to the injectors (since they weren't primed by the relay).

You may be able to drop the tank and clean it without replacing it - but if paying someone else to do it probably more economical to have them just replace the tank. The exhaust must be dropped in order to drop the tank - so if your exhaust is welded instead of clamped ...

On a lift at a garage it's an easy job, at home in the driveway it's a PITA. Shouldn't have to pay for more than 4-5 hours labor (unless this mechanic is using standard shop times from "the book").

fearthisinc

yea i have acess to a lift but my exhaust is not exactly stock... i had it up once and it basically goes straight to the back but once it get to just before the rear bumper it start looping or whatever.. if that makes sense at all.. no muffler, resonator, or cats... not sure why it wasnt just put straight out... so i am guessing its all welded and I will probably have to cut it off and see what can be done from there.. but i only know the basics and it would be my luck that i would be half way through and run into an issue that i cant handle.. which is why i was opting to just have a shop do it.. and i didnt know while i had them replacing the tank what else i should swap out or replace that is involved with dropping the tank

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

There's a good chance that the panhard bar bolts will be rusted solid.
I've done a few in-tank pump changes on these cars and have had to cut out and replace the panhard's.
You may want to do a search on "hard start" before tackling/paying for a tank change unless you want it for peace of mind.