87_LG4

Ok, so my recently rebuilt 305 is back in the car now and I'm starting to put all the things back together. Sadly though I wasn't here for most of the tear down process so I didn't get a chance to label and photograph everything like I wanted. I'll probably ask a lot of questions here along the way, but for now I'm wondering how the drivers side brackets and accessories mount. On my drivers side I have the servo and AC pumps. And then I have these brackets:



I know the top right in the pic (along with two struts) goes on top of the AC pump, but after that I'm pretty much stumped. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Thank you

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Click on this link: >Link
Edit: Interesting set up huh?

87_LG4

Thank you ever so much!!! That is exactly what I was looking for. Strange that that thread didn't come up in my searches.. hmm, oh well.

And yes, that is a messed up way of installing accessories! Thanks again

87_LG4

OK, here's another one for you. Which wiring goes where?
I have 3 different wires (A,B and C) that are obviously meant to attach to the starter solenoid's terminals (1,2,3 and 4), but which goes where?




Much appreciated!

87_LG4

Also, could someone please tell me which color the wire for the knock sensor is? I have two connectors that look exactly the same, but one is white and the other is black. The black wire is part of the A and B wire bundle in the first picture of the previous post. The white wired connector detaches from some of the wires that connect to the vacuum and pcv stuff in front of the carb.
Thanks.

87_LG4

Maybe I should mention that the starter is an LT1 mini starter.
Also, bump...

Scorpner

iTrader: (4)

Glad to be of some help. The starter wires I don't recall though. Someone should know off hand though.

Bump


Edit: Could also try a new thread in the electronics section.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

"A" goes to "3", the rest go to "2" (assuming "C" is the battery positive cable you're holding up, which I assume it is based on the tab that's on the edge of the eye).

It doesn't look like the LT1 solenoid has the slot that the battery cable tab goes into like Gen I starters had.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

five7kid is right.

But five7kid. Should I be grounding my starter to the k-member or something, or is not grounding it fine (since when I bought the car it wasn't grounded and everything was fine). Thanks. I am using a stock starter for my car.

P.S. 'C' picture shows a very nice looking engine. I also have a thread with about 20+ wires that are labeled now if any help.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...ng-mix-up.html

I am going to go back through it since randy4762 started to mess up on 18-20. So it might get confusing but I will go in there when I got time to clean it up a bit. But 1-17 should be correct. five7kid, could you verify each in 1 post. This way I can edit each picture group and add the correct names to each. Then we could clean the thread up. Funny part is I need to know pictures 19-20 but unsure what they might be since randy mis-numbered.

87_LG4

Thank you so much five7kid. Now all I need is to figure out which of the white or black wire goes to the knock sensor and which goes to the fan temp swith. Other than that it needs some fabrication on the exhaust side, and the fluids. Hopefully the car will be ready to run tomorrow. And thanks I H8 WWD for that link. Luckily I didn't need to figure out any of those wires atm, but I have a sneaky feeling they'll come in handy down the road. And thanks for complimenting my engine, although when in focus you might notice flaws. Here's my most recent picture of it, although since then almost everything has been bolted on.


Thanks again for your help.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The starter is grounded to the block. Since the negative battery cable goes directly to the engine, you don't need any additional grounds for the starter.

But, ground straps from the engine to the chassis are needed to ensure adequate chassis grounding.

87_LG4

Do I need more than the braided copper wire that goes from the back of the ps head to the firewall? Where would you suggest grounding it if not? Maybe the k-member?

Thanks

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

My ground points are as follows:

Battery to Head, Head to firewall
Battery to Headlight pocket/ Radiator crossmember

Plan to add one for the starter to k-member, k-member to frame rail. That should be adequate.

Ground to the Engine, the Body and the Chassis.

Also my TBI uses a white wire for the knock sensor, also said to be gray on other vehicles. My temp switch used a black wire, which I found frayed in my engine bay, along with my knock sensor being unplugged. I had a good amount of sensors on this car unplugged and the car never had any lights or problems starting and driving. I have since been replacing sensors for new ones, still need a new Map, TPS and IAC. Then that will be every sensor for the engine bay for me to have replaced. Then onto replacing all grounds on the car. There are quite a few spread out around the car. I'm rambling now, take care.

P.S. I found that when wiring a motor, see how the wire routes, how long it is and usually it will only route and fit to one spot, my black wire was a good 6" longer than my knock sensor wire, so it was easy to figure out it wasn't for the knock sensor. Same goes for my starter wires which were only long enough and routed (curved from the years being in one place) to go to the starter, so that was easy. Rambled again.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The big battery negative cable goes to the engine (sometimes a bracket, sometimes directly to the head - doesn't matter much), plus a smaller wire to the fender. There should also be a ground strap from the back of the passenger head to the firewall (not critical that it is the passenger side head or the firewall, that's just what the factory did).

You can't have "too many" grounds, but there is a point when more doesn't help any.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The wire to the KS comes out of the ECM harness along with the wires going to the carburetor's MCS and TPS. It runs along the valve cover, wraps around behind the alternator and follows the battery cable towards the KS. You can test contiuity to the ESC mounted on firewall, driver's side. The fan switch is part of the engine harness and comes from around the dist. It's relay is also at the firewall in front of the ESC module-four-wire connector, two of them are fat-large gage for fan motor.

I've re-wired an '87 and no longer trust wire colors. I wound up pulling out the entire harness and verifying each by continuity.