l0stpuppy

Does anyone know the numbers of what i need here?
Main Brgs:
Oil pump tube:
Pistons:
Rings:
Rod Brgs:

I'm looking at rebuilding a LB8 2.8L V6 engine.... SO, before anyone says get another engine and through that in, I'm not wanting to go that route.

l0stpuppy

This is also a TBI engine..

Atilla the Fun

your local machine shop can provide all that stuff. For rebuilds of low-performance engines, that's always been the way it's done. They bore the block, they do the valve job, and they provide a rebuild kit. It makes good sense, it makes things easier, and the pricing is usually slightly better than fair.

l0stpuppy

Lets try this again, I'm looking at rebuilding the engine not paying a shop to do so....

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

What Attila is saying is that your engine will most likely need machine work if you are going to do a proper rebuild. The shop that does the work can supply you with the parts that you will need.

Before you buy any parts, you should measure cylinder bores for wear and taper, and also the crankshaft journals. You may find that this engine has already been machined, which is info that you need to know in order to get the correct replacement parts even if you elect not to do machine work. The machine shop has the equipment to take accurate measurements.

When we rebuilt my son's 2.8, I was able to find an engine parts kit that contained all the necessary parts for a complete rebuild at a price that the machine shop could not match. However, we didn't know what to buy until after our block was cleaned, checked for cracks, and measured. It turned out that the block had already been bored once, and the heads were cracked.

l0stpuppy

Okay, as far as I know its not ever been machined,

ternandes

iTrader: (7)

OK. I take that to mean that you are not 100% sure that it has never been machined. Let's assume that you are correct.

If you replace all internal parts with standard sized replacements, it might work OK and it might not. First, it is advisable to measure your cylinder bores and crankshaft journals. If they are within spec, you can get away with replacing with all standard parts. If they are not within spec, and you replace the rings and bearings, your engine will probably not last very long. You also need to examine your pistons for wear and any abnormal damage.

The other thing you need to do is clean everything really well. For accurate measurement and thorough cleaning, you need to take the block and heads to a machine shop. Unless you are planning to do your own valve job, that work will also be done at the shop. Once that is all done, you will know for certain which parts you need to buy. Then you can order a rebuilding kit or have the shop supply you with one.

Now let's assume that some machine work was done that you were not aware of. If you buy standard parts for a block that was bored out, you will not be able to use the rings on your pistons. Same goes for bearings on a crankshaft that has been turned.

Bottom line: you need to disassemble the engine and have it tested for cracks, and measured for wear. After that, you make your decisions as to how to proceed.

l0stpuppy

When I say as far as I know, considering when the firebird came out in 1986, my dad bought the car, and paid cash for it, and considering it hasn't had any engine work done since, and this is looking like something that would have me out of a car for a few weeks..

CrAlt

For a stock build you could goto autozone or what ever and buy a crank kit for not much money. This will come with an already cut crank with matching bearings.

You don't know if your crank needs machining or what. Would be pointless to put new bearings on a spent crank. Get the crank kit and you will have that part already taken care of.

With the bores you don't know what shape they are in. If they are shot then you will need an overbore and different rings.. would be pointless to put new rings on a messed up bore.

If your looking to get the least downtime then get another 2.8 and rebuild that. That way your car is only down for the time it takes to swap out the motors.

If your just going to half **** it and roll then the dice that NOTHING is bad (Why would it be need a rebuild if everything is good??) then:

Main Brgs: Standard
Pistons: Don't need these unless you overbore the block
Rings: Standard
Rod Brgs:Standard

.010,.020, or .030 "over" sizes are when machine work is done. If your not fixing anything then you want the standard (No over size) sized stuff.

l0stpuppy

well the engine is like 25yrs old come august give or take lol... but I'm going to rebuild the engine and such, so that when I through the turbo I want on, I don't have any like major problems. Also going to replace the transmission.

and thankyou

CrAlt

Do a compression test. If that turns out good and it doesnt use any oil then "rebuilding" it isnt going to give you anything.
It may just cause more problems.

Ive seen motors that where 40 years old that still had good rings and bearings. If you and you dad have been keeping up on oil changes and maintenance since it was new then the motor might be in good shape. A compression test is a simple thing to do.

l0stpuppy

okay so i will have that checked thank you

CrAlt

There are instructions and video's everywhere. It also tells you how to do it in the Haynes manuals...You can rent the tool from autozone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbk...eature=related

86ttopbird

Hmmmm...Where to start on this one. Someone had already mentioned the most important step and that is taking measurements of your crank journals and cylinders. Piston to wall clearance too. Too much of that and youll have that nasty piston slap. The cylinder walls should either still have a cross-hatch pattern in them or be smooth. If they are scored up, you need a bore job. Same thing with the pistons. If they are badly scuffed on the skirts, then you should replace them. If your cylinders measure within spec(do you have a telescoping or inside mike?), then you MUST use a glaze breaker hone to put the cross-hatch pattern back onto the cylinder walls to ensure the rings seat properly. Once this is complete, then clean your block up to make sure none of the grit from the hone remains in the cylinders. After everything checks out, then you can set about installing your new pistons/rings. If the cylinders are within spec, you can just buy standard pistons. If your original pistons were not scored and also measure within spec, then all you have to do there is hone the cylinders, buy new rings, clean up the pistons(get all the carbon out of the ring lands. A broken old piston ring works well for this) Before you install the rings on the pistons, check the end gap by using a piston to push each ring down into a cylinder about a quarter of the way down and use a feeler gauge. This is important as if this gap is too large, you will just have blow-by and a worthless engine. After this all checks out, then go ahead and install the rings on the pistons making sure all your end gaps are 180* apart. This type of overhaul can sometimes get you another 50 to 75K miles, sometimes not. It depends on how many corners were cut. Bottom line, dont cut corners. If you are going to do a rebuild, do it right so you dont have to do it again in a year. I strongly suggest at least having a shop check your block for cracks and measure it as well as your crankshaft.

Trevmust

Can I use L44(fiero aluminum) heads on my LB8? They are both 60 degree engines....