m16a2r

Hi everyone, my first post here. So I acquired a 1989 Camaro "headache" edition for 1200 bucks. Has 305 tbi with auto tranny, stock. So after driving it home engine started to overheat, so I replaced thermostat, water pump, radiator cap and the radiator, filled the coolant up with 50/50 water/coolant mixture and was hoping its gonna help but I was wrong. So after some research I figured its a head gasket (white smoke from the exhaust, brownish coolant in the overfill container plus mechanic diagnosed it with a head gasket problem. So due to a limited funds I decided to do it myself. So after removing bunch of parts I hit a brick wall, I cant figure out how to remove exhaust manifold, do I need to do it from the top or I have to jack the car up? Also how do I remove ac pump and alternator? It looks like some bolts are way to deep to even see, should I remove the radiator to make the job easier? Anyway sry for a long post, hope someone will be able to help. I love this car and cant wait to cruise around the town in it.

.I.love.305.

that one is a bit of a headache. i put on new manifolds and it was a pain, you do have to jack it up but the only thing you should remove is the smog pump, 100%useless. but to answer your question nothing has to be removed but yes you do have to jack the car up I would say if you can 2 feet if possible.

lunaticinaZ

my car is a 91 it may be different, but I could reach most of the manifold bolts from the top but the ones closer to the back on the pass. side i had to get from the bottom. and you will have to take it lose where the manifold meets the down pipes from under the car. as for the ac pump and alt. the bolts are hidden to take lose the brackets but a long extension worked fine for me. i didnt take out my radiator and i could reach them fine. just remember to use jack stands when you jack the car up safety first

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

I would recommend spraying all of the manifold bolts with penetrating oil the night before and then spraying again right before removal. A breaker bar would help too or a long hollow bar over top of your socket wrench for more leverage and torque. Everything should come out from the top. The only thing you need to jack the car up for would be to get access to the exhaust manifold to y pipe studs.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

It all comews out from the top. The heat shield on the manifold also acts as a french lock, the tas are folded over to keep the bolts from backing out (no idea why they did that, it's not like those bolts are prone to backing out)

The alternator has a large through bolt on the underside. the AC pump also has a through bolts and some others, they are on the back, you have to remove the support rod to the head (or back off the bolt and slide the rod away),

ASE doc

Definitely remove the radiator to create better access. The accessory brackets are fastened in such a way that they are much easier to R&R with the rad out. Twin Turbo has it right. The manifold to head bolts are all accessed from the top. The manifold to y-pipe bolts do not need to come out for head removal. I have had to loosen one side of the y-pipe during reassembly but generally not.

Someone said use penetrant. I absolutely urge you to invest in a quality penetrating lubricant. Drilling out broken manifold bolts is no fun. WD40 does not qualify. Liguid Wrench is okay, PB Blaster is what I use. Soak everything the night before. Then again as you begin the job. Use hand tools and carefully loosen the bolts. If one is stubborn and you are worried it will break, work it loose and tight gently to break up the rusty threads. Be sure to thread chase the bolt holes and use new grade 8 bolts when reinstalling the manifolds. Better yet, your local GM dealer should have the OE bolts in stock. Theyre an odd length.

ramicio

iTrader: (-1)

I am trying to do this right now, and I can't for the life of me figure out how I can even get a tool on the back two passenger side manifold bolts. The A/C box is in the way. I can't even get a socket on the rearmost one.

Heatzone25

You may have to remove that box, I had to break mine to get it out. You may try from underneath with an open end wrench and make sure you use lots of Pb blaster.

ramicio

iTrader: (-1)

I've never had any luck with PB Blaster or any penetrating oil. It especially doesn't work when gravity takes it away from what you're trying to soak. If it's bad enough that' it causes a fastener to snap, there's nothing to penetrate...the metals have fused together through oxidation. The other 4 manifold bolts loosened just fine. All this just to get the stupid AIR system out of the way so I can change the spark plugs. I just want to pay someone to come take off this manifold for me and reinstall it after I fix the broken AIR fittings.

Heatzone25

You don't need to remove the manifold to change the plugs. Their are many other options out there! Get a short 5/8 socket or use a special short spark plug socket and an open end wrench. That is the general method of changing the plugs on these cars anyway. Especially if you have headers.

ramicio

iTrader: (-1)

I need to take off the manifold to fix the broken AIR fittings that snapped trying to remove them, because with that AIR system in place, I see no sane way to reach the plugs, and it wasn't active on my car, anyway. Headers are calling my name after I fix this up, and then I'll have to likely patch those AIR holes.

MoJoe

iTrader: (5)

I just replaced the air tubes on my 87 Camaro 5.7. Front three or four bolts reached from above with a combination of shallow, deep socket and 1", 3" extensions. The rear two or three bolts/studs came out from the bottom.
FYI: the bolts/studs/nuts for mainfold-to-head were all 9/16". The manifold-to-pipe nuts were 15mm. The exhaust on both side, one nut loosened, and the other nut was frozen and the stud backed out (under darn near 60 seconds of constant impact gun hammering)... still got the job done.

I picked up a set of Sears/Craftsman Universal Max Axess Socket and ratchet set:
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-19pc-...1&blockType=G1

This made a HUGE difference in being able to do the rear bolts/studs from below.

The MFer I had: both the dipstick and rear heat shield nut didn't loosen before the stud did... So, the dipstick mount was a little mangled, and the heat shield fully mangled during removal. I also had to grind a wrench thinner to fit between the dip stick tube and head to break the nut off the stud.

Anti-seize on everything on reassembly! Good luck

- Joe

ramicio

iTrader: (-1)

Things are worse now. The one holding on the dipstick tube took the dipstick tube along with it. That's mangled, and now I really can't drive it. I have a WTB ad up, along with the labor for this. I am just done with it. I can't do it...I'm defeated mentally, but mainly physically. This has now costed me my job.