64elko

hello
so i have been reading lots of the posts on STALLING PROBLEMS,, on 3rd gen cars...
this my problem,,, my car idles at 900 rpm when warming up.when warm it goes to 600.witch is fine,, put in drive it runs fine,, but put your foot in it a heavy and it dies when slowing down,, or when getting off the freeway now this is sporadic ...
Now i have a new motor with new every thing an i mean every thing new...
I am getting no codes,,,Now i did have to replace the the relay between the dizzy and the ecm,,, even the ECM is new.... set every thing to factory settings...this is all stock car no mods at all.. i even checked all my wires in my harness for short ,bad wires,vacuum lines are new,charcoal canister, the list is just to long to list everything i have put in new,,,,, still nothing....
got any ideas....
This not my first time posting on this site,,, As i have had a lot of sucsess for fixing my car from help form members of this site like your self...

Kevman

Change your fuel filter yet?

64elko

NEW fuel filter

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

what set up do u have? maf or speed density?


edit:NVM, i just saw ur pic, have u checked ur tps?

64elko

map with vss... both new

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

Have you checked the tps meaning that is reading the voltage it should at wot and close throttle?

J91

Stumping the dealer guys isn't hard, Agree, check TPS voltage, adjust if necessary...

DeltaElite121

My car did this when the fuel pump was going out. It would idle ok, but as soon as you get moving and start slowing down it'd want to kill over half of the time.

- I agree with everyone else though.. check the easy stuff before you jump to any conclusions because the fuel pump is definitely not a fun venture.

Kevman

Without actually working on the car, I can honestly say I don't know. But, when I read It leaves me to think it's not a computer problem..
It seems like you're flooding, either your fuel pressure is too high at the rail, or your regulator is no good.
Best advice is to find a mechanic who worked on TPI cars.

64elko

hello

the voltage is 5.5,, new egr, NEW ECM,,, everything new you name it has ben replaced..... it does it about every four to five days...could it be the nutrel safty switch going bad ,not sending signal to ECM...

juanillox8

iTrader: (7)

I really Doubt it, did the problem just started or since u did the engine
swap?

Pillsbry10

iTrader: (1)

just becuase its a "new" part doesnt mean it isnt bad...double check the new parts

Kevman

What's the ECM number 7730?

64elko

hello
I have checked and dubble checked it.... I am looking for a TPI shop now..... obd1 showed nothing.. computer at chevy showed nothing....

64elko

ecm 7730

malibuz16

What did you use for a fuel pump and a tank? Is there a baffle around the pickup? Where is the fuel being returned? What is your fuel level? A stock 64 ElCamino fuel tank was designed for a carb that could deal with fuel slosh and the pump sucking dry for a few seconds. EFI GM's have a baffle around the pickup to keep fuel there when going around corners and accelerating or stopping. If you can check fuel pressure when these problems occur.

64elko

Hello

useing a 86 el camino fuel tank,stock set up for Electric Fuel Injection,, brand new 45psi pump....with new sock,,,, the fuel pressure is 45 at the rail .. there are no fuel issues for fuel getting to the fuel rail or on the return to the tank TPI'S need 45 pds at the rail i have that,,,, an i have 45 pds when in drive... my chevy guy even says it is not a fuel problem..

87tpiz28

iTrader: (2)

Is the 5.5v reading at the TPS? was that at wide open throttle? with the throttle closed it should be .54V

64elko

.54 closed,,,,5.5 wot.....

305sbc

iTrader: (3)

What you describe is that the engine runs fine under power, but then dies when you slow down in gear.
What happens if you give it gas driving down the road, then shift to neutral to coast down out of gear?

It almost sounds like DFCO is engaging, but then doesn't disengage. Two of the DFCO triggers is the MAP signal and the RPM.
You could verify these signals and DFCO function by data-logging.

There are other possibilities. Under high engine vacuum (slowing down) the plenum could be pulling fuel from the fuel pressure regulator via the vacuum hose and flooding the engine. That doesn't seem very likely.

I have also see a loose electrical connection have the effect you describe. You could check the connections down at your starter, the main engine ground, and the grounds that go to the back of the cylinder heads.
If you have the factory fusable links down at the starter, I've seen them go bad internally, but look normal from the outside. The wire strands inside get brittle and break, causing intermittent opens. That sort of thing normally would make your other electronics like interior lights flicker.

I'm just throwing those ideas out there.

bjankuski

The problem is your minimum idle speed is too low. You need to reset the minimum idle speed to 600 RPM when the car is warm. There was a service bulliton from GM on this and I believe the procedure is listed in the tech articles on this web site.

64elko

hello

i wish to thank all the members for there input on my post,,, what we have found is a manifold vacuum leak right at cylinder #5 ,,, an to think the chevy guy did not find it,,,lol... so it has caused a valve guide to start going bad,, Will be putting on new heads.. will up date when i am done...


Thank you again...

ninetyone

iTrader: (2)

hope you got it figured out.

ASE doc

When you're done with the head repair, clean your throttle body. The most prevalent cause I'vre found for your type of stalling issue, is coked throttle.

64elko

hi doc
thank you for your responce..I took the throttle body off an did a full cleaning but no change... weather to cold to do heads,,it has ben snowing here is Seattle again.my garage is to full...

64 elko

ASE doc

Snow! We just had some cold days down here in Oregon. I wish spring would get here. Im dying to drive the IROC since I did so much work on it this winter.

One other thing to be aware of is a possible sticky EGR valve. If it is staying open when you quickly close the throttle, that will cause a stall.

I dont know what a DFCO is, but I assume he means the TCC(torque converter clutch) If there is an intermittent problem in your TCC brake switch, it will cause the TCC to stay engaged when you apply brakes. Generally, you would feel this as a pulling feeling against the brakes at a stop. Just some ideas. If I had the car, I would monitor data to see if AFR is running lean. I would also check plugs to look for AFR balance between cylinders, especially since you have a manifold air leak. Just some ideas.

64elko

hi doc
yup snow, more on the way... your just south of Portland,, i am just out side Tacoma.. waiting for a 50 degree plus day to work on my ride... it could be the tcc but will not know till i get it running again.... say here is my email lajuicer@yahoo if you wish to send me an email direct.. put 64elko in subject title an i will open it..
thanks 64 elko

ASE doc

Me and e-mail. Not a good match. I actually spend alot more time here on TGO than I do on gmail. You can PM me anytime with questions or news.

64elko

hi doc
ok will do....

thanks 64 elko

james.gould150

i am having a similar issue ... i know the speed sensor is bad and has all new:vaccum lines , egr,tps,mapand iac...it only stals in gear it happens if im on the brakes or just coasting in drive, you all seem very knowlegable on these cars i would appreciate any ideas, its a 305 tpi z28 auto (unsure of trans in the car) thank you and pleeeaase help

Kevman

Well, You answered your own question. Take the vacuum line from the brake booster and blow into it, if it goes for a little bit and stops it good, but if you can sit there and blow into it for a while the booster is gone..