armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

With my terrible luck I managed to get the harmonic balancer tools adapter stuck into the threaded end of the crank. Hoping I can get it out with a pair of vice grips in the morning.

ex-x-fire

Is it just the tip of the installer? If so repull balancer & make sure the tip is secured tightly to the installer.

AlkyIROC

You should never put the tapered tip of the puller into the crank hole. The threads in the crank are probably damaged now. You should have reinstalled the crank bolt and used the flat adapter to push against the head of the bolt.

Same goes with installing the balancer. Don't use a bolt to pull it on. That can strip the threads in the crank. Install a threaded rod into the crank and use a nut on the threaded rod to press the balancer on.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

AlkyIROC's post is spot on .

And ,

If the threads ARE damaged , please , don't make a bad situation worse by trying to use the bolt to "force repair" the threads by getting the bolt just started and then gunning it in there with the air tools . This is 100% likely to further destroy what was left of the threads and leave you really screwed . The machinists have "thread repair taps" specifically for cleaning up threads in instances such as this , and once you get the stuck puller cone out this really should be your next step . Of course you'll need to find out the bolt size and thread pitch to get the right tap .

Good luck with it

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Sounds like someone didn't use a adapter at all.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

It's the adapter part of the hb installer tool. I removed the bolt that screws into it leaving the adapter stuck in place. Any idea to help get the adapter out? I'm assuming the hb remover won't help since the middle part needs to thread into the crank.

Jonesyfxr

iTrader: (2)

Maybe you accidentally used the wrong thread and now it's cross threaded?

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

No I made sure it was the right threaded adapter for my crank. :/

Without kicking a guy anymore when he's already down does anyone have any ideas on getting the adapter out?

bwiencek

so you were INSTALLING it - I think everyone thought you were pulling it...

If it's just the little double-threaded stud portion of the installer set - grab the end with a pair of needle nose pliers and it should turn right out - there was probably some old sealer or junk in the threads of the crank snout that caused the little piece to have more resistance vs the other end that screws into the tool. As long as it screwed in smoothly and easily it should come out just as easy.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

Yes was installing. Just got some vice grips and I'm headed home to try to get it out. I'm gonna cry if it doesn't come out lol

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

Whoa so I managed to get the adapter out now I've just gotta rent the hb remover tool.

bwiencek

Why are you removing it? thought you just installed it?

Damon

I use a pneumatic screwdriver to get them out (they usually have a straight screwdriver slot on the end of the adapter). I've done it at least once for each of my friends who I loaned my balancer install tool! 80% chance the threads in the crank snout are still OK when you get it out, through. It's just in there REAL tight.

FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.... The install tool is designed to have TWO wrenches on it when installing the balancer. If you only used one (on the big outer nut), you caused the problem. Notice how the center threaded shaft has a hex or a couple flats on the end to accept a wrench? THAT'S NOT BY ACCIDENT. You hold the center shaft from binding down tight on the adapter with one wrench as you tighten down the big installing nut on the outside. If you do not hold the center shaft with a wrench to prevent it from tightening as you turn the big outside nut it will crank down against the adapter and drive it into the crank snout tight as a witch's teat. Which is where you are now.

ex-x-fire

I think what happened was the jam nut that locks the adaptor in place wasn't tight enough.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

I had a moment of stupidity and used the old balancer to install the crank gear. I ended up installing the gear and removing the old balancer. Timing chain is on with both gears dot to dot and I just put my heads on. Tomorrow I plan on installing my oil pan, new hb and intake manifold.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Just don't forget:


That instance of #1 TDC is NOT #1 firing. It's the OTHER instance of #1 TDC, which is the point at which the #1 exh is closing and int is opening, as well as #6 firing.


#1 firing is one full turn of the crank from there; with both dots at 12:00. Only reason to build it "dot to dot" is because it's easier to see the alignment there. Just don't make the mistake of setting it there and then trying to drop the dist in pointed to #1: the engine WILL NOT run like that.

ex-x-fire

The same thing applies to the 2.8L & 3.1Ls too.

armybyrd

iTrader: (4)

That's exactly what I did. With the gears lined up dot to dot is there anyway to mess it up? From what I remember at dot to dot my 1 and 6 pistons didn't appear to be at tdc. But I did do one full revolution after dot to dot and put the timing cover on and now have my heads on.


QUOTE=sofakingdom;5887324]Just don't forget:


That instance of #1 TDC is NOT #1 firing. It's the OTHER instance of #1 TDC, which is the point at which the #1 exh is closing and int is opening, as well as #6 firing.


#1 firing is one full turn of the crank from there; with both dots at 12:00. Only reason to build it "dot to dot" is because it's easier to see the alignment there. Just don't make the mistake of setting it there and then trying to drop the dist in pointed to #1: the engine WILL NOT run like that.[/QUOTE]