lsturbo89

Do B2L and L98 differ as far as length on the rods or are they both (Being GM 350s) The same?!? In a bind.. only reason I would consider replacing a lifter assy without sending the cam out to be machined or being a new lifter.. Long distance job and daily driver is my bird, other car died horribly. Figure as long as it doesn't punch a hole in my block it's worth a shot.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

Believe me I understand the desperation/no money thing and if the parts do end up fitting it could work for a while , the thing being how long of a while ? With no BS I have seen a brand new lifter installed with the proper "assembly lube" wipe a lobe clean off of an already broken in cam in under 200 miles and I've also seen (far far fewer) situations where mismatched (not worn in together) lifters & cam have survived for longer than that . It truly is "the luck of the draw" but the odds are not 50/50 , more like 95/5 not in your favor , and if it ran for more than 1K miles you'd best play the engine's block number as your lottery number to see if two miracles can come from the same engine .

lsturbo89

Yes, I understand the gamble. I have it scheduled for a rebuild anyway. The cam is going to be replaced anyway, lol. The problem here is time. The guy I'm going through specializes in turbos super chargers and NOS systems. My car has a turbo (Kinda, I had to bypass it bc it blew) so going to him would be a better idea than a random mechanic that would do all OEM and non forged internals leading me to the same problem I have now. but as it turns out I was so sure it was the lifters but it is NOT the lifters. All are healthy but still conditions are horrible. It starts (Very rough and catches while cranking / some grinding sounds) and idles for a minute or 2 around 450 rpm (Super low) but if I try to give it gas it instantly konks out. Seems like alot of misfiring or perhaps a blocked cylinder now that I think of it.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

Ay dios mio.

L98 and B2L are two codes for effectively the exact same thing.

All B2L/L98 engines in Camaros/Firebirds were roller cam engines. Standard practice is that roller lifters don't have to be mated to the cam lobes like a flat tappet lifter.

Not to be a dick or anything, but sometimes it's best to hire a professional than to try to learn and do it yourself.

lsturbo89

You don't make a lot of sense to me. I didn't ask if I had roller or flat tappet cams / lifters. If I did that would mean I should hire a 'Professional'. I don't know what the difference is between the two engines nor would I being as I only have one of them. There is a vehicle in a junk yard that most likely has the opposing engine. Hence the question. Also it would help to know for sure in case I have to go buy lifter / cams for my car. Knowledge never hurt. And you should NEVER put anyone down for trying to learn more about their car or cars like it.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

L98 = the engine
B2L = the package that installed it in the car

Can't have the one without the other. IOW, for all practical purposes, they're one and the same.

Your description doesn't sound like anything related to lifters in any manner way shape form or fashion. Or rods. Or assemblies. Or "blocked cylinders", whatever that might mean.

Sounds more like a tune-up issue; needs spark plugs maybe, or the injectors cleaned. Maybe just fuel delivery. First thing I'd be looking at in your situation would be, fuel pressure, WHILE IT'S IN THE ACT OF SCREWING UP; not, while it's running right, you want to catch it WHILE IT'S IN THE ACT OF SCREWING UP.

Try the simple stuff before any of the rest of ... that.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

The feeling is mutual.

I didn't put you down. I suggested that you take advantage of skilled labor because it sounds like you lack the knowledge, much less the skill to properly diagnose the problem and correct it.

You can ask a brain surgeon how to fix a head injury, but unless you have the skills of a brain surgeon, you're probably going to make the problem worse trying to fix it yourself.

lsturbo89

Okay, so you don't know why I was asking. I need to buy lifters anyway. It's useful information regardless. I had not even taken the engine apart yet and knew I needed seals as well. There was a loud knock in perfect rhythm with the engine turning at the top end. Hence it sounded like a lifter. I like to be prepared before I go pulling **** apart. I do not lack skill to diagnose an issue. The problem WAS IN FACT A BLOCKED CYLINDER!! The seals finally gave in and cylinder 4 was having compression issues much like if you had a bad spark plug and it filled with gas, Except with oil. You simply cannot assume that I don't know what I am doing because I don't know what the difference is between 2 engines (I found out about them through VIN lookup) Now I just need to buy a seal kit and a few other tools. Also it would be nearly impossible for you to diagnose my engine without actually hearing it run and being there. Hence why I didn't ask. And before you try and put me down further, I bought the car in not running condition and did not plan on keeping the original engine. blown seals are to be expected of a car that was never rebuilt and running almost 30 psi.. I don't understand where you come off assuming that I lack knowledge to work on my car or why it bothers you that I choose to do so but I do appreciate the useful information. Keep the bashing and 'You don't know what you are doing' to a minimum please.

Drew

iTrader: (58)

If you think any of the replies you've gotten are even remotely "bashing" you're in for a rude awakening.

You don't make much sense because you say things like you have a LS1, or an LT1, then you post a pic of what appears to be a stock TPI engine. Or you use phrases like "blocked cylinder" that perhaps no one else in history has ever used while discussing automobiles. Or terms like "seal kit" which I can only assume you mean gaskets?

Like it or not, you're coming here and asking for help. If you don't like the response, you could always use the search feature and read some of the 20 years worth of archived threads. Learn to speak the language and maybe you can communicate better what it is you need help with. Because as it is, you can't even talk the talk, much less walk the walk.

lsturbo89

I learn about cars myself mostly, So I don't "Talk the talk" But you assume I don't "Walk the walk" Which is entirely an assumption based upon bias where you project your feelings onto others. I'm literally taking a 'dead' motor and trying to make it run because I'm in a bind. Idc what type of motor it is. It's a GM 350. Someone else told me it was an LT1 and I took him at his word for it because it didn't matter to me what it was. It was not staying in the car. and LS1 was a typo. It happens when you are thinking of what you want to do with the car to improve performance and try then to type out what you have. Excuse me.. Not being well versed in terms that only third gen enthusiasts would know is apparently a sin here.. Sorry about that. I knew my car was TPI, You could of drawn the assumption of what I was talking about from there instead of 'doesn't belong in the same sheet metal wrapper' Let's face it.. I have not gotten good feedback from you guys because you assume you know everything and I know nothing because I'm not ASE certified or you assume I'm going to rebuild on my own.. I ask for help in simple questions and you give me a run around about how I'm doing it wrong? I literally said I was doing it wrong. You don't need to clarify about it then assault me for using 'incorrect' terms. You understood what I meant. Forums are meant to be helpful, last I checked.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

We can only help when the information provided to us is accurate.

If you post BS, don't be surprised at what comes back in return.

I'll remember the userID. I'm sure Drew will too.

And by the way, I don't think either of us is ASE certified either, for whatever difference any of that makes. We're HOBBYISTS.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

I still have no clue what a "blocked cylinder" is .....