cdoyle

I have a 92 5.7, and been having heatsoak issues.

Going to replace the starter, been reading on the forums that 2 better options over an OEM replacement is either a Mini Starter, or an LT1 starter.

Which is the better route to go? I really want install to be pretty painless, and not have to reroute wires, or do anything like that.

What does everyone prefer?

Any links to brands/model?

Thanks!

naf

iTrader: (7)

the main benefit to the LT1 starter is that it can be bought at your local auto parts store and any warranty returns will be simpler. other than that, personal preference really.

cdoyle

what year LT1 or does it not matter?

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

96 model if I remember correct

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

The LT1 starter will also turn over some fairly high compression engines. So its a nice OEM solution.

redneckjoe

i don't believe the year or model matters. could be from an f-body, vette, caprice.
they are the straight across bolt pattern for a 153 tooth ring gear. if you have the diagnal pattern, 168 tooth, it wont work.

skinny z

IIRC the small OEM starter I'm using with my 168 tooth flexplate is from a mid 90's truck application. (Don't think it was a L31/Vortec)

Rocket-Doc

iTrader: (11)

I had a mini in it and I can tell you that I just put in a LT1. the mini ends up close to headers, the LT1 is an inverted build and will last longer.

AlkyIROC

I don't know exactly what year it was from but I use a factory mini starter from a early 2000's 5.7L and it cranks over my big block just fine. I broke a starter drive on one when the engine kicked back when trying to start it but I paid extra for a 1 year warranty from the junkyard. I can take it back to the junkyard and exchange it as many times as I want in a year. Just need to hope to find a suitable one if I need to go searching. First one I found was an aftermarket OEM replacement (NAPA I think) less than a year old (date sticker still on the starter). When I broke it, I went back to the junkyard and just grabbed the first one I saw and it looks like it's an original OEM. It's dirty but does the job just fine.

You can buy a fancy aftermarket high performance starter but it can still be broken plus has a bunch of other issues with fitment etc. I've had 2 XSTorque starters now. The cost of a junkyard starter is a fraction of an aftermarket starter.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Of the "mini" ones, there are 2 basic designs: the Hitachi, and the Nippondenso.

Just for illustrative purposes, not any kind of endorsement or recommendation or any such...

Nippondenso:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9526/overview/

Hitachi:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9000/overview/

The LT1 starter looks kinda similar in an overall way to the Hitachi. Both of which are closer, generally speaking, to the overall shape of our original direct-drive Delco POS from the 6 volt days. (Civil War, give or take)

Frankly, IMO, ANY of them are so far superior to the OE crap, it's almost pointless to talk about which is "better". Each has its points: as said, the LT1 has the benefit of being available at any corner parts store, while the others probably work a bit better. (emphasis on "a bit") I'm partial to the ND for just pure function, but it doesn't fit as well. I really don't think it matters very much which you go with, you'll be happy.

cdoyle

Thanks everyone, I think I'll probably go with the LT1 starter since it's something I can just go to the auto parts start and get.

Is 96 the correct year to get?

and this will be basically just bolt right up, no modifications needed right?
Oh and does anyone have a parts company they prefer? Napa, Autozone, etc.

redneckjoe

take your pic;


In 1992, GM created a new-generation small-block engine called the "LT1 350", not to be confused with the high-output Generation I LT-1 of the 1970s. It displaced 5.7 L (350 cu in), and was a 2-valve pushrod design. The LT1 used a reverse-flow cooling system which cooled the cylinder heads first, maintaining lower cylinder temperatures and allowing the engine to run at a higher compression than its immediate predecessors.
This engine was used in:
Y-body:
1992–1996 Chevrolet Corvette C4
F-body:
1993–1997 Chevrolet Camaro Z28, B4C and SS
1993–1997 Pontiac Firebird Formula and Trans Am
B-body:
1994-1996 Buick Roadmaster
1994–1996 Chevrolet Caprice
1994–1996 Chevrolet Caprice Police Package
1994–1996 Chevrolet Impala SS
1994–1996 Chevrolet Caprice Wagon
1994–1996 Buick Roadmaster Wagon

91z28ss

iTrader: (4)

Your 1992 camaro with a 5.7 has a 168 tooth flexplate. The LT1 93-97 F-body oem starter works with a 153 tooth flexplate...I was able to fit it on my 383 because I installed a 153 tooth flexplate! They are as good as the big brand names such as powermaster for example for high torque starts. I have an 11.7 : 1 compression ratio and it does the job perfectly. I added a high heat shield wrapped over it too...Oh and I forget to mention the LT1 starter can push a 14:1 comp ratio without hesitation

naf

iTrader: (7)

I don't think he swapped out the stock flexplate??? maybe

skinny z

1999 GM C/K 1500 with a 350/5.7.
"Hitachi" style mini-starter for a 168 tooth flexplate. Diagonal bolt pattern.
This is on my late 70's 350 Gen 1 SBC.
Cranked over 200+ PSI (cranking pressure) with 20 degrees of spark lead.

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

Are you sure? I have never seen one with a large flywheel or flexplate and a staggered starter. Exclusive to trucks etc.

Powermaster is junk. Plastuc gear reduction gears and bolts that only grab a couple threads in the housing ... and no warranty (we'll send longer bolts)

You simply can not beat the ruggedness and quality if an oem lt1 starter. Best price quality.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

I put an LT1 starter in y car last summer when I was doing my headers. The only problem I ran into was the wiring was not long enough to reach the lugs on the starter. The LT1 starter is a couple inches shorter and GM didnt leave much slack in the wiring. I had to pull a little where ever I could and also had to dremel away some plastic on end of the solenoid where the wiring goes so that the ring terminal would sit down flush.
The car does start different now. Not better or worse but just different. Sometimes I let the key go to soon and have to restart it. Im still getting used to where it "fires"



STOCK VS LT1








Not long enough

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

That's a Nippondenso starter... no wonder the wires didn't reach, they end up sort of toward the bottom instead of up on top. Even with the little whitish cappy thing on the end of the solenoid.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I used to go through stock starters because of heat soak until I wrapped it with a thermal blanket. Not just the one that goes around the starter but also in front of it so its completely wrapped.
Same stock starter for over 6 years now.
Just like this = http://www.autozone.com/sandpaper-an...ier/398807_0_0
You do not expose all of the adhesive. Just enough to keep it on.


The last mini starter I heard in action sounded nothing like the stock one.

Kind of a really "high" pitch Zinggggg or what ever. I did not like it. At all.
Not necessary with my application anyway.

Not sure about the LT1.