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Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Title sounds like a game show, doesn't it? Too bad I can't afford handing out prizes for correct answers. So, I have pictures for 3 different sensors with the location. I want to get replacements and need to know the correct names for them please. The engine is a 90-92 TPI 305.
I would add, #2 (temp gauge sending unit) is the factory style, and replacement ones won't look like that, although the factory connector (or that one) will fit them; and #3 (fan switch) is a monkey abortion, and not only is the switch destroyed, but also, the wire needs a new pigtail, so get one of those too.
Some people simply should not be allowed to touch wiring.
Some people simply should not be allowed to touch wiring.
Oh yeah! I know those people. One of those kind folks did the stereo wiring on my Jimmy. I would love to thank him personally if I knew his whereabouts.
Some people simply should not be allowed to touch wiring.
Being from Indiana, I would normally blame it on Kentucky engine take out, but I got this motor outside of Chicago. It would have been great if he left the harness still attached, nnow I get the fun job of figuring out what some of it hooks to. Some are quite easy, others? Not so much.
The first is the CTS for the computer, driver's head is the coolant temp gauge sender, passenger's is the fan switch.
SW555 is the replacement for the lower temp (grand national, TTA) fan switch, right? Seem to remember reports that it didn't actually come on lower than stock for some people who've tried it. The traditional aftermarket low temp fan switches seem to be mostly discontinued, but there were some options on Summit last time I looked that looked promising.
Switch, Fan Cont (1 Blade Term, 3/8 - 18 THD) (1.055) = Part Num 10045782 can not be found. All the ones that the part leads to is a different style of connection. As seen Here
Sensor, Eng Cool T/GA(3/8 - 18 THD, Collar Button) = Part Num 25037346 - Replacement part on
(I just ordered 2 yesterday) for the Driver Side Head. Same part can be found on Classic Industries.
Sensor, Eng Cool Temp (At Int Manif) (Interfaces w/ECM) (Used For Clusters w/Oil Gage & Light Comb) (Goes w/ 12101899 Conn) (3/8 - 18 THD) (2 Blade Terminal) (1.150) = Part Num 25036979 Can be found on Rock Auto
Yes, they were already named, I'm just supplying the original part numbers and replacement part locations.
#3 CT switch for secondary fan, just under you will find knock sensor
Yep, already been established. I just posted on where replacement parts can be found with original part numbers. Only part that is different is the Fan Switch. It's a different style.
All 3 of those parts are different and unique, They do not interchange or substitute for any other.
The remains of the fan switch in the pic do not look like the original. Some form of sodomy has been inflicted upon it. Ignore what it looks like and do not try to match it.
The fan switch you linked to is the correct style. It uses the same type connector as the knock sensor.
If that's YOUR car's wiring hanging off of those parts, you need pigtails, connectors, etc., as previously mentioned.
Regarding the right side cylinder head temp switch(for the secondary fan) 89 305 TPI, anyone know a good part # for a little lower "ON" temp, than the OE? Thanks.
All 3 of those parts are different and unique, They do not interchange or substitute for any other.
The remains of the fan switch in the pic do not look like the original. Some form of sodomy has been inflicted upon it. Ignore what it looks like and do not try to match it.
The fan switch you linked to is the correct style. It uses the same type connector as the knock sensor.
If that's YOUR car's wiring hanging off of those parts, you need pigtails, connectors, etc., as previously mentioned.
I understand and I'm not going to interchange them. But I am going to get the ones that took over for them since the originals are discontinued.
As for the cut wires, I already knew that after inspecting the engine when I got home with it. Since I now know that the wrong fan switch was put in there, I will get the correct on and then go after the pigtails for both Head Sensors.
Third pic looks like another temp sender than the switch.Temp switches look quite different when they break, that one doesnt look broken, looks just like the one in the second pic.
Regarding the right side cylinder head temp switch(for the secondary fan) 89 305 TPI, anyone know a good part # for a little lower "ON" temp, than the OE? Thanks.
well sw555 like mentioned above or look at summit and jegs site for a spade terminal 3/8 npt switch.
i think the wells is 210f on.
Start spraying it w/ a rust penetrant , every day. PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc. The nipple is steel, in aluminium.
I bought a can of Kroil, "The Oil that Creeps". It's been sitting for about 10 hours so far. Kroil is expensive but they say it's guaranteed to work for my money back. We'll see how that goes. If it works then I'll do some kind of Aftermarket Product review on it. They also claim to have the best degreaser on the market. I bought a can to test that one out too, it's expensive as well.
I got the information about Kroil from the older gentleman, that used to build some race engines, who I bought the 30 over block only to trade it for a 40 over Hyd. Roller block. He told me, which I already knew, that "WD-40 is crap, PB Blaster" (one which I always have a can around. I've been using it for 20 some odd years) "is good but only works better with heat applied" (I knew that also), and "Kroil is the best out there for rust removal of frozen bolts, nuts, screws and such". I thought I would give it a try
@mikeceli BTW, I used to have a 79 Bandit Edition T/A. A guy that used to own a BBQ place had it just sitting behind the restaurant, I would drive past and keep saying that I was going to check it out to see what it actually was. I knew it was black, but faded and dirty. One day I finally stopped and looked it over, I thought it was a Bandit but couldn't be sure, it had the Gold Pontiac Arrow, but anyone could have added it later. I still couldn't tell much, until I saw the faded Gold Pinstripes, then I knew it was. The restaurant was closed for the day, but I went the next day and talked to the guy. He said he's had it for years, but didn't really want to keep it. Said if I had $500, I could buy it. SOLD! It had a dead battery and with a jumpstart, it fired right up and I dove it the 5 miles back home. The 403 was smoking and leaking oil, but ran strong. Saw the Y84 fender tag when I popped the hood confirming the steal of a deal, sprayed on engine degreaser and the oil leak and engine smoke went away. It never did have an oil leak.
The normal rust was running wild on a car in Indiana, but not that horrible. The T-Tops didn't leak, the front seat needed rehab, the rear seats looked in a very good condition, Floorboards were bad but not Flintstones bad, 403 was still the light blue color, Gold Anodized Steering wheel was a little faded but you could see it, while the dash bezel was faded except around the trim rings. That was also 20 years ago. One day, out of the blue, the wife told me that I can't have to cars two keep fixing and one of them has to go ( I should have gotten rid of her, being the one that had to go). After weeks of going over which one to sell, Bandit or the 90 RS T5 w/9 Bolt 2.77:1, I knew I could sell the Bandit for more than the RS. And I did, for $1300. I only have a few badly taken pictures of it to remind me what I gave up, because now I don't have the 90 RS either. Wife is still around, can't seam to get rid of that one. I've been trying for years, believe me, I have tried.
............Bad Wolf Spray it on and give it a moderate hit w/ a hammer. This may shock the treads and help break corrosion. If you have the time, spray and smack couple tiles a day.
Very interesting Bandit story! Mine..........Dad owned local wrecking yard, 2 sons worked there, but wanted to quit. Dad told them id they stayed, he would buy them each a Trans Am. The three of them went to Bob Benson Pontiac GMC, right here in Petaluma Ca. One son got a TA, off the lot. Other son said, "Let's see the order book" and proceeded to special order a 1979 SE Y84 (Bandit) Trans Am. Every option except Map Light . As told to me by the seller.
I bought the TA from son who ordered it, new. It has lived it's entire life in Sonoma County, Ca.
............Bad Wolf Spray it on and give it a moderate hit w/ a hammer. This may shock the treads and help break corrosion. If you have the time, spray and smack couple tiles a day.
Very interesting Bandit story! Mine..........Dad owned local wrecking yard, 2 sons worked there, but wanted to quit. Dad told them id they stayed, he would buy them each a Trans Am. The three of them went to Bob Benson Pontiac GMC, right here in Petaluma Ca. One son got a TA, off the lot. Other son said, "Let's see the order book" and proceeded to special order a 1979 SE Y84 (Bandit) Trans Am. Every option except Map Light . As told to me by the seller.
I bought the TA from son who ordered it, new. It has lived it's entire life in Sonoma County, Ca.
Those 2 sons were lucky. I would have worked my azz off 24 hours a day to get one.
When I was gathering up parts to take to Dependable Sandblaster and I discovered a sensor on the bottom of the Plenum, what is that sensor?
It is the IAT sensor, Intake Air Temp. and it is the same part as the CTS. BTW just throw that old rusty nipple in the trash when you get it off. I found o new one in the "Help" isle at my local parts store, I think it was around $7
It is the IAT sensor, Intake Air Temp. and it is the same part as the CTS. BTW just throw that old rusty nipple in the trash when you get it off. I found o new one in the "Help" isle at my local parts store, I think it was around $7
I already took it off and have not transferred it to the other intake. What is the HELP part number and I'll look for it at Autozone.
The top sensor looks like it goes into fluid, the bottom sensor appears to go into AIR. You can see the Thermister on it tip.
Well, like I said, the top sensor is the kind that was on the bottom of the plenum, and according to Rock Auto, that is the ACDelco replacement for the IAT. So, I need to get the second sensor instead?
Well, like I said, the top sensor is the kind that was on the bottom of the plenum, and according to Rock Auto, that is the ACDelco replacement for the IAT. So, I need to get the second sensor instead?
The second sensor is considered a "bird cage" sensor and IIRC it is just the newer style, probably more accurate. Either should work as long as the connector is the same on both and from the photo it looks that way. I used the top sensor when I replaced mine and yes that style works in both fluid and air.
The second sensor is considered a "bird cage" sensor and IIRC it is just the newer style, probably more accurate. Either should work as long as the connector is the same on both and from the photo it looks that way. I used the top sensor when I replaced mine and yes that style works in both fluid and air.
Good to know. I've heard that people move the sensor, what would be the reason for doing that?
Good to know. I've heard that people move the sensor, what would be the reason for doing that?
If you put the sensor before the TB, it will fool the computer into thinking the air is cooler and supposedly make more power. Cooler the temp, the more fuel the computer adds to the mix. This could cause a rich condition when the engine is up to temp which would effect the overall performance of the car.
If you put the sensor before the TB, it will fool the computer into thinking the air is cooler and supposedly make more power. Cooler the temp, the more fuel the computer adds to the mix. This could cause a rich condition when the engine is up to temp which would effect the overall performance of the car.
So, it's basically user's choice on doing it or not.
IAT Inlet Air Temperature? If so, this would explain the EXPOSED Thermistor in the second sensor. I have never seen an exposed Thermister, except those that are exposed to AIR . I do not think that should be exposed to coolant. It will fail.
IAT Inlet Air Temperature? If so, this would explain the EXPOSED Thermistor in the second sensor. I have never seen an exposed Thermister, except those that are exposed to AIR . I do not think that should be exposed to coolant. It will fail.
It wouldn't be exposed to coolant. Soon, Drew will chime in. Where it would be relocated, I think I remember reading that the relocation is in the plastic Y of the air box. I think the V6 had them like this. Read a very heated (no pun intended) discussion about the IAT & CTS being the same because the part numbers were the same. The thread was from 10 years ago, Drew was in that thread also. I would like to know why the V6 had them in the air box but under the plenum on the TPIs. I get the whole the car can get heated up under the hood, but if that is the case, why didn't they put it in the air box for the TPIs as well? All they had to do was make an ECM adjustment for the extra fuel because of the start up cold air. Here is the thread.
IAT = Intake Air Temperature Sensor. It's also known as MAT ( I want to say it's Manifold Air Temperature) Sensor. I've even heard it as AIT = Air Intake Temperature Sensor
05-14-2020, 03:15 PM
