Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Any Tricks on Installing front timing chain cover?
i just put my new came in and put everything back together but now i have deleoped an oil leak. Its form the timing chain cover. It looks as if the rubber seal didnt seal all the way up on the pass side. anyway to fit this insead of pulling everything back apart waterpump ect.
__________________ 89 FORMULA 6.0L LSX
423RWHP 399 RWTQ
Re: Any Tricks on Installing front timing chain cover?
Quote:
Originally posted by Mkos1980 i just put my new came in and put everything back together but now i have deleoped an oil leak. Its form the timing chain cover. It looks as if the rubber seal didnt seal all the way up on the pass side. anyway to fit this insead of pulling everything back apart waterpump ect.
The best way is to unbolt the oil pan and let the front end drop down slightly. Put the front cover on then bolt the oil pan back on.
Depending on the year of the engine, there are 2 different front pan seals for the SBC. A thick one and a thin one. They should both come in the seal kit. Did you use the correct front pan seal?
__________________
Hardtail Racing
All engine, no power adders! Bests: 9.029@150.45 (at altitude)
Theoretical sea level performance 8.623@157.05
? Front pan seal? I used the rubber seal that was still connected to the origional rubber gasket I saw a seal come with the gasket set but i didnt know i needed to use that one. Its an 89 Block. do i have to cut the old seal off? and replace it with the other one.
No you dont have to cut it. The 1 piece oil pan gaskets are reuaseable. Yea unbolt the pan and use a light coat of "magic mechanic helper" (silicone) on both sides. Ugg pain in the but now that its all back togather.
For anyone reading this with an older style engine 2prm and considering a cam swap, leave the front pan gasket in the timing cover and just spread some silicone on the bottem. Much easyer than forcing a new gasket in there.
__________________ 1976 SWB C10 3/4 drop, gen VI 454/M3.
1973 Buick Apollo wifes play car. Chevy 383/S3.
so Can i just drop the pan and try to get it back in there? if I drop the pan will the gasket still be good? It looks to me as if the whole gasket is rubber.
I wasn't aware that it was a 1-piece pan seal. Those are usually reusable as long as it isn't damaged. Drop the pan down a bit to get the front cover in and reinstall the pan. The seal will still be ok to use.
Clean the lip on the oil pan very good. Also clean the pan with soap and water. Rince.
Pull the cover and cut a triangle off of the square lip where your gasket goes on the timing cover. Cut the angle back the front portion facing the radiator will be the orginal diminsion. The block side will have the angle cut. This allows enough play for you to slip the cover back on over the Crank snout without pulling the pan. Think about it.
Clean the cover. Clean the cover. Wash it with soap and water. Rince.
Reinstall the gasket to the cover with yellow permatex gasket glue. Put an 1/8 inch bead of black RTV on the top of the gasket where it meets the block allow it to dry.
Reinstall the cover tighten the bolts evenly but not too tight.
Clean the pan area around wher the timing cover meets it.
Now wipe a bead of black RTV into the seem where the pan meets the timing cover all the way to the block. I say wipe because it will be flush with the two parts and not visable unless underneeth the car.
Allow it to dry before starting the car. IT WILL NOT LEAK.
6 cam swaps 4 different SBC no leaks.
You must use the Black RTV and the yellow permatex all the other is junk for this fix.
Always use soap and water and rince. It leave no residue and makes for a good bond when using the black RTV.
Try a Ford Powerstroke 7.4L (Navistar 444) engine. We ordered an oil pan gasket and they sent us a tube of silicone. There is no gasket and getting the silicone to seal takes 24 hours before you can put oil in the engine.
Originally posted by Stephen 87 IROC Try a Ford Powerstroke 7.4L (Navistar 444) engine. We ordered an oil pan gasket and they sent us a tube of silicone. There is no gasket and getting the silicone to seal takes 24 hours before you can put oil in the engine.
LMAO ! That would be the "universal fit gasket kit" ! LOL
Did they really do that ? That's funny as hell. lol
Pull the cover and cut a triangle off of the square lip where your gasket goes on the timing cover. Cut the angle back the front portion facing the radiator will be the orginal diminsion. The block side will have the angle cut. permatex gasket glue. Put an 1/8 inch bead of black RTV on the top of the gasket where it meets the block allow it to dry.
LOL Thats one of the tricks my dad taught me. It works great!! Although I always forget to do it.