ronterry

OK, I'm getting 400 Ohms from the middle terminal on the connector on the drivers side near tank. I'm also getting it at the pink wire in the interior.

Now correct me if I'm wrong, but should I be getting 0(Empty) - 90(Full) Ohms ?

I think it's setting at about a half a tank, and my autometer is pegged, which would seem logical for being out of bounds (400 ohms). I grounded the sender terminal, and she goes to empty, so the gauge looks good.

Ok, what would cause the sender unit to give out access ohm? corrosion? It's was below 0 the other day. I added heat, hoping for the best
I swear it was showing a tick above Empty yesterday when I completed the dash install, and today I added 6 gallons, and it's full ? whaaaattt. I wish, unless I'm in some sort of temporal vortex.

Now the car, has been sitting since last summer. Most of the stock wiring, and fuse box have been removed. The dash, and instrumentation is Aluminum w/ Autometer gauges, and Ronnie's own special wiring harness.

The car 'was' an 82 Trans Am CFI 305.

Do they make a sending unit for fuel cells? cause I not going to drop the tank, unless I replace it with a fuel cell. (was going to do this after I got it tuned, and replaced rear end. Late summer)


Thanks,

Ron
Chevy 350 .040 over 2 bolt w/Windage tray - main studs - Moroso 7 quart kick out. Balanced out the ying yen.
Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads, Cam, Intake.
Edelbrock Victor Fuel pump, water pump.
Edelbrock 1407 Carb
March Performance, Jegs, Summit, PAW, bla bla bla

Vader

RT,

I'd agree that your dash instrument sounds like it is working correctly. The tank resistor is a wirewound with a mechanical wiper - not the most high-tech item on the car. Chances are that if the car sat for an appreciable length of time with a partial tank the wire or wiper got some oxidation. I'd suggest filling the tank as full as you can get it to force the float to the top. Either the wiper will clean off the contacts or it won't, but you'll have a lot better chance if you can move it full-scale a couple of times. In the meanwhile, you'll have to calculate your mileage to make sure the tank doesn't suck dry - that's tough on pumps and filters.

Did you try tapping on the tank with a rubber or leather mallet while you were taking the resistance reading? Just a thought.

ronterry

I'll have to try that with the mallet. I might even have a little disco party on the rear of the car.

Yea, it was setting there for a good period of time on empty.

I'll go out tommarow, and get another jug of gas, and this time monitor the resistance while filling.

I'll have to get me a piece of hose, and mark it cause I have no clue what this thing gets in milage/leckage


Thanks Vader

Ron

ronterry

To follow up...

..added another 6 gallons. BTW it was measuring 1.3 K ohms this morning.
I ran the car for 15 minutes. awkkk aha awkkk, boy it smoked like crazy. Damn engine only has 200 miles on it.

Well, after running it I hook up the meter, and I'm finalily getting 84 Ohms, but I think I broke the damn post in the gauge, and them ultra lites cost 50 bucks. awwww

Also the fuel pressure was hammering away 6PSI, and after a nice smoked feeled warmup, it starter fluctuating around 3 or 4.
Looks like I need to check the pump, cause I got a hand full of gas on my hand when I ran it under the pump.

One step forward - two steps back.

Question:

I had to put a Edelbrock bottom feed plate, to fit the big Victor Series pump on there, and it's leaking good. I believe it's leaking around all the bolts that go all the way threw the pump. Can I use liquid teflon on the rubber diaphram on the disassembled pump bolt holes to keep the fuel from leaking down the bolts ???

I tried soaking the rubber in oil over night, but it still leaks.

Ron