Hard starting on sister's IROC
#1
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Hard starting on sister's IROC
She has an '87 IROC (L98). It takes a long time to start. I'm suspecting an injector leaking. I listened for the fuel pump to prime up when you turn the ignition on, it did. I checked the fuel pressure and it went up to around 43 psi. I disconnected the vacuum line for the fpr and the pressure dropped to around 37 psi. I plugged it back in and turned the car off and watched the fuel pressure. Within the first couple of minutes the fuel pressure dropped down by at least 6 - 7 psi. (This is why I suspect a leaky injector.) I ohmed out each injector. They ohmed out between 17.4 to 17.7. The cold start injector ohmed out at 4.6. I hate to have her go buy a whole set of injectors if all she needs is a cold start injector or something. Can I narrow down the problem any further? Thanks in advance for any help.
Sorry it was so long. I wanted to give you guys as much information as I could.
Sorry it was so long. I wanted to give you guys as much information as I could.
#2
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Your main injector impedances seem fine (mine ohm out at around 16.4 ohms) but your cold start injector is suspicious. It most likely has coil shorts and is not working properly, hence the starting problem. As for fuel pressure drop, a drop of several PSI at key off is normal. So, if you're still there you don't have an injector leak. However, a DROP in pressure when pulling the vacuum line is the wrong direction, so that's suspicious.
As a side note, I had an 87 IROC with a hard start problem that turned out to be a fuel pump. It mainly didn't want to start when it was hot. You could have a fuel pump problem or clogged filter causing your pressure to decrease when the vacuum line is pulled. Fuel filter would be the easiest and first thing to try, IMHO.
HTH,
Steve
As a side note, I had an 87 IROC with a hard start problem that turned out to be a fuel pump. It mainly didn't want to start when it was hot. You could have a fuel pump problem or clogged filter causing your pressure to decrease when the vacuum line is pulled. Fuel filter would be the easiest and first thing to try, IMHO.
HTH,
Steve
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Car: 1968 Camaro
Engine: 406
Transmission: Tremec TKO
Axle/Gears: 3.42
You could try the PROM from an 89 IROC (MAF, no cold start, with enrichment programmed into the fuel map) but it would have VATS. To be any more help, we really need a picture of your sister ... preferably standing by the car.
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#9
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Car: 1992 Chevy Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: T-56
Originally posted by KS91Z28
I'll ask, but meanwhile.....anybody have any other ideas?
I'll ask, but meanwhile.....anybody have any other ideas?
#10
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personally I think it is your injecters leaking. I had the same problem with the hard starting and after I changed every sencer,egr,fuel filter, I finally pulled my fuel rail out and pressurized the system and what do you know, 7 out of 8 injecters were leaking.
does your sisters car seem to start up easier when its cold? And does it take alot of cranking when its warm?
does your sisters car seem to start up easier when its cold? And does it take alot of cranking when its warm?
#11
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How many miles are on the injectors?
You can also unplug(electrical connection of course) the coldstart injector if you suspect it to be the problem. If anything you will notice a prolonged cranking with it unhooked, atleast your sposed to notice that anyways. If you have a ton of miles on the injectors then they may be the problem.
You shouldn't be leaking that much pressure atleast not that fast anyways.
Brendan
You can also unplug(electrical connection of course) the coldstart injector if you suspect it to be the problem. If anything you will notice a prolonged cranking with it unhooked, atleast your sposed to notice that anyways. If you have a ton of miles on the injectors then they may be the problem.
You shouldn't be leaking that much pressure atleast not that fast anyways.
Brendan
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Yeah, my sister's car seems to start up easier when its cold. And it does take a lot of cranking when its warm. The injectors have around 110,000 miles on them.
#14
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if it's leaky injectors, could it be inconsistant in when it does it? usually if my GTA has sat for more than say 5 or 10 minutes, it'll crank for a month, then barely start. Once it finally starts, I can give it a little gas and it comes right to life and runs great. Other times, it could be sitting overnight and start immediately, although that's pretty infrequent. If the car was just running 5 or 10 minutes ago, it fires immediately.
#15
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I think it would depend on how bad the injecters are leaking, to how long it would take to start. Mine has the exact same problems as to what you are describing,and it is never consistant. What I do to cut down on the cranking time ,is push on the gas peddle. I think by doing this you allow air into the cylinders so there isn't as fuel. Give it a try and see if it makes a difference.Let me know.
Grant
Grant
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Car: 2003 Porsche C4S
Engine: 3.6L
Transmission: 6-speed Manual
replace the fuel pump relay ($8). After a while the contacts get corroded and do not supply the pump enough juice, even though it will still run.
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Car: Camaro IROC-Z '89
Engine: 350 TPI /w Procharger P1SC
Transmission: TH700R4 with Transgo shiftkit
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner
Originally posted by KS91Z28
Yeah right, I'm not so sure she'd go for that.
Yeah right, I'm not so sure she'd go for that.
I am a nice guy, so I'll give you one for just the cost of postage if you still need one...
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