TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Q1: My buddy has a 305TPI and recently replaced plugs and wires. After sitting for hours it starts but sputters and sometimes just stalls but only when cold or sitting for a long time, enough to bring it back down below 50*. What could be the problem. I'm thinking fuel filter.
I re-read the post so I'm changing the response. This doesn't belong here, it's not a simple Q with a definitive A. Ask this in the General Tech section. The previous post should be moved and mine should be deleted.
Last edited by Iroc n roll; 04-04-2008 at 08:02 PM.
O.k. so I have a 88' IROC-Z with a stock 305. The rear has a set of 3.73 gears. I wanted to squeeze a bit more power outta my TPI and am looking at getting some Edelbrock Shorty headers, a flowmaster exhaust system, SLP intake runners and a 52mm Throttle body.
You mention about a also going with a cam and intake, who makes a intake manifold that can be used with my stock heads? Th eedelbrock one suggests the vortec ones but are they able to bolt dirrectly on? Also what a good mild cam.
I'm looking at mayeb bumping up the horsepower to around 300 if possible. Any other suggestions? Thanks
The reason GM didn't assign an additional byte was simply because the code would have to check if the first byte was on before referencing the second byte. That would be. Messy..
If your a coder you'll understand this.
A 10 or 16bit ECM would be the solution for this issue with MAF.
Q: WHAT CAUSES THE OIL TO BACK UP THE DIPSTICK LINE AND PUSH THE DIPSTICK OUT AND CAUSE IT BLOW ALOT OF OIL ON TO HEADERS ETC. ALSO WHEN I GET ON IT FROM A DEAD STAND, SHE RUNS THRU 1ST AND 2ND FINE BUT 3RD OR 4TH MAY TRIGGER SOME TYPE OF FUEL SHUT OFF OR IGNITION, EITHER WAY SHE LOSES ALL POWER.
BRIEFLY: I RECENTLY DID THE INTAKE GASKET. BEFORE THIS I HAD NO PROBLEMS WHAT SO EVER WITH ACCEL AND TOP-END. BUT AFTER I HAVE HAD THE OIL PROBLEM AND THE LOST OF HIGHEND POWER.
Q: WHAT CAUSES THE OIL TO BACK UP THE DIPSTICK LINE AND PUSH THE DIPSTICK OUT AND CAUSE IT BLOW ALOT OF OIL ON TO HEADERS ETC. ALSO WHEN I GET ON IT FROM A DEAD STAND, SHE RUNS THRU 1ST AND 2ND FINE BUT 3RD OR 4TH MAY TRIGGER SOME TYPE OF FUEL SHUT OFF OR IGNITION, EITHER WAY SHE LOSES ALL POWER.
BRIEFLY: I RECENTLY DID THE INTAKE GASKET. BEFORE THIS I HAD NO PROBLEMS WHAT SO EVER WITH ACCEL AND TOP-END. BUT AFTER I HAVE HAD THE OIL PROBLEM AND THE LOST OF HIGHEND POWER.
ANY SUGGESTIONS
PVC Valve, maby the oil seperator is clogged if equipt, picton rings are going bad. Basically the crankcase has a lot of pressure which is the reason why the the oil is pushed out the dipstick tube.
OK AND WHAT ABOUT THE THE FUEL OR JUST PLAIN CUT-OFF POINT I GET TO IN 3RD AND 4TH WHEN UNDER FULL THROTTLE, IT JUST LETS GO AND AS THE ENGINE RPMS DROP IF I TOUCH THE GAS AGAIN THE POWER IS RIGHT BACK THERE, THE ENGINE NEVER ACTUALLY CUTS OFF JUST SOME TYPE OF LOST OF POWER, OR IS IT TIMING?
yeah if i floor it, and hold it it shuts out like i said but if i back off for just a second then get back on it gradually up to top end, it never shuts out
