unbonyr

i dont have much experiance or knowledge about cars so work wit me i heard that on a stock 5.7 trans am 3rd gen i can make it get in the mid 12s with 3,500 or 4,000 no nitrouis can i please get some list a parts i might need to do it thank-you

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

ugg..

Thirdgen86TA

Heads/cam/miniram/gear and then you will probably be in the 12's. Just spend $600 and get a nitrous kit. Just don't spray it all the time and you will be fine.

Scott57350

Prochrager!

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

Send the car to me and $4K and I'll make it a mid 12 sec car.

unbonyr

thanks alot for the feadback im only 15 but i already have the car its a 89 gta all stock 120,000 miles so i dont think a supercharger is such a good idea or thats aleast what i heard i was eventually goin add nitrious but i didnt want to be some freak who just relies on that to win the race with lik a 250 shot but does any one got a 12 sec car and they only spent 4,000 and under and can u list the parts thanks

Z69

You'll need a converter and gears too, so not for 4k.

Block- 4blt stock or studded 2blt
Machined etc $350-$500
Crank Scat 9000 3.75 stroke (383CID) $350ish
Rods-Scat Oliver copies (7/16 cap screw) $280 match length to pistons & crank
Pistons- Speedpro/FM Hypereutectic flat tops or 12cc dish with coated skirts $250 depends on head cc
Rings-speedpro file fit plasma moly $90
Gasket set- HP $100
Cam- $250ish Comp XE 276/281 HR 112LSA p/n xx-503-x
Lifters- Not sure, I don't run HR's $300
Pushrods-?? $40-$90 Compcams Magnums are $75ish, Trick flows are $90ish
Oil Pump- Melling M55A $25 Other pumps are lower quality.
TC- truck HD link chain $25 or Cloyes True roller $80
Heads- AFR195's $1275
Flex plate GM $80 Cheap plates are just that, and may not fit correctly. So beware of the $40 stuff.
Balancer- 8" $100-200-325 I recommend the mid priced one. ProRace or similar steel unit.
Head bolt washers- $8
Timing chain cover- Knock the stock tab off and buy a pointer -$8?

You'll still need intake upgrades and misc stuff like plugs & wires

Don't go cheaper on the crank, you may end up spending on upgrades to get it to last. The $180 ones are often not heat treated ie they are soft... I don't recommend Eagle due to quality issues I've heard of from reliable sources. ie you may need to fix it prior to use. Things not round is the main problem...
Some of the E-bay new stuff are blems- meaning returned things that aren't round...

You can get cheaper pistons that may not last.
A lot of people use the $50 ring sets..
You could get away with new GM 5.7" PM rods for about $160
But you'll spend more on labor to clearance the block. With the listed rods, you can clearance the block yourself. It was less than a minute of grinding on mine. A lot more time moving the piston/crank/rod around. Check cam/rod clearance while marking each cylinder, then grind and recheck. Stock rods require more clearance grinding but can still be a DIY thing.

Rod length- been debated to death, the least debatable points are:
5.7" rods may allow for better oil control over a 6" combo.
6" rods will have a lite bob weight and be easier on the crank, may be able to be internal balance w/o mallory metal $$$.
If you go with a 5.7" rod, the motor will be external balanced.
Ensure you get a 5.7" rod crank. The counter weights are different for 6" rod cranks and often will not clear 5.7 piston/rod combo. I ended up havung to sell my external balance stuff when mine ended up internal.

Intake, depends on your preference. A Holley stealth ram is the cheapest brand new route. Surf stealthram.com
Injectors-$280-$330 or good used e-bay stuff. 30-36lbs/hr make tuning easier.... 24's will work I've been told. many times...
Same with the TB- a good used 52mm. A stock one may work fine too. Lots of room for debate on that one. A 58mm is a lot harder to find used.

Don't go cheap on the heads unless you exactly copy a proven combo. YMMV Good heads will always work unless they are too big.
I'd recommend exhaust,gears, then intake upgrades first.
3.73's work well for a 700r4 w/o costing too much fuel.

Then build the long block.

A cheaper route might be to get vortec heads and a RamJet intake. But you have to be careful with valve springs. May end up needing machine work for springs to fit. A hot cam/spring kit with vortec heads and RJ intake may be enough to go mid 12's. with tuning and correct converter. Check around...

I'd start learning to tune your chips now w/the stock motor.
Then the modded motor will be relatively easy.
About $150 dollars plus laptop to start burning your own chips.
Lots of debate here too, but you may want to get rid of the MAF.
Just get a 90-92 ecm and memcal and repin your stock harness.

And somewhere in the middle of this, your trans may go out...

edit: almost forgot- you may need a Hydra-rev kit $200ish, the Hot kit doesn't though. And all prices are pretty close if you shop, but most are Summit. I use Lewis Racing Engines for my parts due to his comparable prices and lots (lots) of free advice via phone and e-mail. Don't bug him unless you plan on buying though.
Rocker arms ??? Tommy Johnson Motorsports has the cheapest good ones. $140 the self aligning ones are about $160 and fit stock centerbolt valve covers no problem or Harland Sharps for about $190 and probably don't fit w/o different VC's or double gaskets. Might try and get a kits for some savings. Heads can be ordered with correct springs so no complete cam kits unless you know someone who needs the springs.

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure its not that hard to spend $4k and make a 12-sec motor. But good luck getting that 12-sec motor to run 12's in an otherwise-stock car.

Motor isn't everything. You'll need suspension mods, new tires, new gears, performance-rebuilt transmission (to hold that 400+ RWHP/RWTQ).

I mean, if you really think about it, its not that hard to get these cars that fast, but to take everything into consideration that you'll need, it ends up taking quite a while and a lot of money. I'm trying to get my 305 into the 13's this summer. If it doesn't happen this summer, and I don't have a 355 in by next summer, then I'll definitely be joining the 13-second-305 club.

My goal is/was to get this car into the 12s all-motor with a 355. I have a 355 shortblock with forged 10:1 pistons and 0 miles sitting in a garage right now waiting for the the rest of it to get put together.

You'll learn quickly that it isn't just the biggest motor you can put into your car. If you wanna run 12s you gotta spend like you wanna run 12s

If you're 15, you don't even have a license yet, don't be worried about making a 12-sec sports car. You remind me too much of me when I was 15

REDZ28

Well My car runs mid 12s all day with stock suspension with ET streets, so I am not sure why you think he needs suspension upgrades?

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unbonyr

if people here run 12s i would really lik to here what ure setup is so i can get an idea for what i want along as its around or under 4000 dollars redz28 im guessing u had a 350 and just stroked it up to a 383 how much is it to do a stroker kit from a 350 to 383 that question is for any one to answer and how much did urs cost to do redz28 and how much horsepower u got just from the stroker

ZBRA

buy a motorcycle

REDZ28

I paid $350 for forged pistons and I got the crank, rods,flywheel and balancer for free. Dyno numbers are in my sig.

Tony89GTA

iTrader: (7)

What heads?