Ant

Well let's start from the beginning I was doing a regular tune up on my 89 iroc 350 tpi (spark plugs and cap and rotor). I also changed the fluid in my rearend. I go to start it and all the motor is doing is turning over and over with no Kind of attempt to start up. So I spray some brake clean through the plenum still doesn't start. So I changed my fuel pump and it still will not start just turns over. So I test my fuel injectors turns out 3 of them were way out of spec . so I replaced those three fuel injectors with 3 from autozone so I could keep stock 22Lb's and also the other 5 fuel injectors I sent to vaca valley auto parts in fairfield, caand had them flow tested and cleaned. Well before i got the fuel injectors i thought it was a good time to change my intake manifold gasket and paint the intake manifold, runners, plenum, fuel rails, and the throttle body. So now i got everything back together and It still won't start. I also replaced the distibutor with one from autozone. Please help i don't know what to do and I love this car and it's been down for over three months now and i need to get her back on the road.

llvll4l2c91350

sounds like a spark problem. especially if it didnt start with the brake cleaner. did the new distributor come with a new module?

Ant

Yes it came with a new module with the distributor

Jay

iTrader: (2)

how worn out is your ignition key?
Possible it's an issue related to the VATS

Ant

I am actually having a problem with my vats system. when I would turn the key sometimes the security light would come on and stay on. But if i took the key out and waited 5 minutes the car would crank over but still will not start. I wanted to wait and fix that after i got the car started but I guess if that it could be a problem I will take a look today. When this same thing was happening before it turned out to be the two wires for the vats key solenoid were loose.

Ant

Well I took my steering wheel off and fixed the connection on those two vats wires by soldiering them car still won't fire. I am about to go to autozone and get another ignition coil because that is the only thing I haven't changed new for the ignition system. I still don't think anything is wrong with it though since it is an msd ignition coiland I only had it for like 6 months.

Elthesh

How old is that key you're using? If it's an original, the resistor may be extremely worn and making poor contact. If you have a backup key, try that, if not, you might wanna get a key made at a GM dealer. If that doesn't work, at least you'll have a backup key when you do get it running.

Ant

They key is actually new along with the the solenoid it's just that the two wires connected to the key solenoid I was having trouble with (they weren't connected properly). I couldn't pull the old 2 wires out of the steering column and had to splice the old ones and solder them together. Now the car just cranks over and over without starting and with the key inthe on position the security light doesn't stay on anymore.

PneumaticTire

Did it run fine beofre the tuneup? Check to make sure the 4 wire connector is securely in the distributor. Also make sure the ignition module is hooked up right. It's probably something simple that you accidentally did during the tuneup.

Codename 47

iTrader: (4)

Someone let me know if I'm right here, but I dont think you can cut those two wires and just reconnect them. If you did cut them you will need to get a new key, with a different amount of resistors, and a new ignition cylindar for this key? Basically, resetting your whole VATS system for a new key and resistor count. Thats a big F'ing "I think" though.

Ant

It ran before the tune up. I triple checked all of the connections and they are all connected. For some reason it seems like Im not getting any spark. Car won't even attempt to fire with brake clean or carb cleaner. Is It possible I would need another computer or could i get a computer that doesn't have vats so I could just factor out that probability of the vats being the problem.

GMTech

For petes sake, stop throwing parts at the car and do some diagnostics!

If you think its not getting spark, then check for it!

If you think it might be a VATS problem, learn how the system works before you condem it. The sheer fact that it will crank over, tells you it may not be the VATS system at fault since the VATS module disables the starter as well as the injectors.

Also check for injector pulse and fuel pressure. Don't assume that just because you put a new pump in it, that you have fuel pressure and the injectors are spraying.

Had you have examined the problem as soon as it wouldn't start, diagnosis may have been easier, but now that you have gone as far as to replace components like the distributer, you can't even time it properly because the car still doesn't start.


Since this happened just after working on it, then retrace your steps and consider what all could have happened. All the spark plug wires on the correct terminal? Coil plugged in? Possible blown fuse? Ground wire get knocked loose?

eric17422001

A the risk of saying "What he said" GMtech has a really good point-

Couple of stories- lived in an apartment building, bonehead next door had a beat but restoreable '70 LeMans 2 door hardtop. He was changing the coil one day, he said "She ain't got no fire!" and it made no difference- soon he was borrowing money from another neighbor to replace the starter, as he cooked that trying to crank the engine So I took pity on him after the starter was on and took a look, I turn the engine over with a wrench on the balancer bolt with the distributor cap off, and the rotor does not turn....BROKEN TIMING CHAIN!

Car ended up getting towed off by the landlord a month later for having an expired plate, he had no money for parts and I would not fix it or loan him tools as I had been burned by this bum before.

NEXT- Mom in laws boyfriend, though a nice guy, is no mechanic. Mom in law had an '86 Sportcoupe with the computer feedback Q jet, car would not run well, he said he'd rebuilt the carb but it made no difference. I went out of my way and bought two good known computer feedback Q-jets from a member of another mesage board I frequent. When we next visited the inlaws, I went out to help him install a carb- I noted he had left several vacuum hoses off, and had connectors disconnected. I helped get the carb on, but the fuel pump died filling the crankcase with fuel (mechanical pump) so we could not get it running. Later he finished the job. He said the "carb was no good" as it still would not run right, swapped on another carb, same problem. If he would quit being stubborn and READ A MANUAL he could figure out the problem is NOT THE CARB- probably a sensor or wire not connected right. So he bolts on a used Edelbrock carb and adaptor, and it runs "Better" though it has no spark advance. They traded the car off later.

He now has a '78 C10 4X4 truck, and has put two new Edelbrocks carbs on it and complains they have a hesitation. I found the box they came in, got out the manual- read the troubleshooting guide- Suprise! There it was, a troubleshooting guide! Imagine that! And guess what! A simple adjustment of the accelerator pump arm later and he no longer feels the need to "Take this POS back and tell them to shove it" and get yet another new carb!

Ant, you have spent how much money on this thing changing parts you do not need to change all because you are not troubleshooting it?

PneumaticTire

Exactly guys. That's exactly why I asked him if it was running fine before he did the tune up. Odds are something new didnt just suddenly break while doing a tune up. Retrace your steps and trouble shoot. Save your money and use it to buy mods or something.

Ant

Well let my start by telling you that i did diagnose the fuel system It wasn't hold ing pressure so i fixed that by replacing the fuel pump which wasn't holding pressure and the three bad fuel injectors that wasn't in the correct ohm range. And with the distributor I needed a new one anyways because on the old one the wires going to the ICM were all chewed up and the top where the rotor goes was all rusted. The reason I was asking about vats is I didn't know if it shut off the igniton coil so don't come posting stories about other guys not being able to diagnose there problems when I diagnosed at least three things that were wrong and could be the cause of my starting problem. If you don't have any input on what could be wrong don't say any thing at all. With all of that said for you flamers it turned out to be the ignition coil also and my iroc is running smoother and better than it ever has had. As for the guys that had input on what could have been wrong and put put input on what they thought was the problem thanks. I will be posting the pics of my motor soon since I painted it between all of this mess.

GMTech

I didn't see anybody posting to flame you. My post was simply geared to the fact that you failed to mention any diagnostic steps that you performed, which leaves anybody trying to help you with no information to go by. All we can tell you, based on what you posted, is what isn't going to fix the problem, and you already know that.

Nobody who posted to try and help you is watching over your shoulder, so we don't know the rhyme or reason behind what you did. Now that you clarified, it makes a little more sense.

Glad you found it.

tunney707

you my take a look at the white wire coming off of the coil (tach wire), use a ohm meter to read.
it happen to me once, when i came off of a 500 mile trip?
it was grounded out. replaced the wire and it fired up.
of course after i replaced the , coil, module, dist. cap & rotor.