TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
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Ok yes it is partly made from pvc pipe but it has a 3" ID and was cheap, it's a MAF car. I had to extend the harness and modify the hood and remove the charchol canister.
more pics, i kno it may look cheap and cheesey but it should flow better than the slp CAI or any other 3" metal tube setup. I would like opinions please.
I used a sheet of galvinized steel to block off the filter from the wheel well, then a piece of lexan sheet to cover the filter from the bottom. I hope this is suffitient. the filter has a body of 7" long 5" round at the bottom and 3 1/2" at the top. It fits perfect in the spot it's placed and i figured it woulfd pick up alot of cold air there. Please give some opinions, my car isn't the prettiest so i wan't to concered with butchering her.
Pretty much what I did on my 92 GTA.
Made mine out of 4" solid dryer ducting until I can find someone with the stones to weld one up in mandrel aluminum.
Filter now only comes out with the car's front end jacked up.
I also had to extend the wheel skirt to accomodate the long filter body.
There's absolutely no engine bay heat getting sucked up by my setup.
Does anyone have pics of their setups, i'd be interested to see what others have done, i'm sure i'm the only stubborn one who ran it on the drivers side.(it was a major pain in the ***) I would hhave done 4" cuz i have tons of 4" stainless and aluminum tubing but trying to find a mandrel bender or anyone who has mandrel tubing around here is imosssible or they want $50-60 for a regular steel j-bend. And if anyone is wondering i found the jumper harness for the MAF sensor on an old chevy venture, i forget thhe yr but probably late 90's. it is the exact same connector but the wires are diff colours,(no biggy) and was free. gm wanted alot for a pig tail as does TPIS.
Also does it look ok? is it too cheasssy? and do you think it was a good idea to mount the filter on the 90deg elbow, i wanted as few bends as possible but it's the only way it will fit.
For a MAF to work properly a minimum straight length of 10 pipe diameters for the air flow to stablize (laminar flow) is required before the MAF. As you know there's not that much room in the stock system and the pipe isn't even totally round at that. That's the MAF screen's function to help distribute the flow across the sensor.
Any bends in the pipe will cause turbulence in the air flow which makes it difficult for the MAF to measure the air mass correctly, the air exists the last elbow swirling and with a velocity differential at the walls, defeating the purpose of the screens.
Well the maf sensor is descreened and i cut the fins off of it, soo it i'm not all to worried about the physics of the arodynamics of the pipe, but it's good to know. The elbow at the tb is 3.5" aluminum tube. i had to dent the tube slightly for clearance of the coolant hose.
I drove it for about 1hr today and i didn't notice any butt dyno differeance but the intake and the tubes were alot cooler at operating temps then with thhe previous setup. As far as drivability it hasn;t changed anything as far as i can tell.
incase you were wondering about the coupler at the tb, it's a rubber adaptor from spectre, 4" to 3.5" you can also get 4" to 3" adaptors in different colours.
i will in 30 days or so - waiting on heads. instead of reinventing the wheel i got the vents from a t/a front and back of hood. they are in just the right area to pick up fresh air - very front of the hood where the air flows over. to the air box will just be tuned the other way - with the opening at the top so the air flows right into it and right down into the tpi. but i need to get the heads before i put on the tpi and then make the air intake.