VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

Really no grinding. I never used an aftermarket cover. Always the stock one. Now if he damage his somehow then that's another story.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I had to grind the very top of the cam tunnel where the 3 allen plugs are for the lifters oil passages. Its very common to have to do.
This kinda give a idea, older block in this pic but I've had to do it on roller blocks also.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...photo_14.html#

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

You grind on the block but not the cover

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

Yes, I was pointing it out that he may be confusing the two. Either way some grinding most likely has to happen on the block.

ASE doc

I was just on the Summit website where they state that the Comp Cams double roller wont clear the OE cover. They also don't mention modifying the block to clear, like I've always had to do for the Cloyes DRs. I'm thinking this set must be different to clear the block but need a deeper cover. It's really pretty easy to just tap the front cam oil gallerys for 1/4" pipe plugs and just grind a little off the bosses to clear the Cloyes DR timing set. Then you can use the OE timing cover.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I think I heard someplace that the dub rollers wont clear the vortec plastic cover?
Anyone tried it or know for sure??

The Project

iTrader: (6)

Summit Racing told me. Also, test fitted the factory cover and did not fit over the Comp Cams double roller (I wanted to see for myself).

Summit cover fits like a charm.

dctrouant1995

VincentZ28- every mechanic I've talked to here says to use a timing cover that is made for a double roller. The guy I talk to mostly builds 10-11 second quarter mile motors just about everyday.

I really do not want to grind the block at all. Plus the summit cover is only 8 bucks, not a big deal, its only 1 hour of work. Plus it chrome, won't match anything but its shiny

dctrouant1995

I've never reused the plastic vortec covers. Just dont trust them. I always get a metal cover for them. If anybody wants one, I think I got about 4 of them laying around the shop I work at. Dont know where there at but if you pay shipping you can have them if I can find them

VincentZ28

iTrader: (2)

I've been using Cloyes Double roller for 25 years and never had to do anything to the cover nor the block with the stock L98 cover. The block I'm using is a Vortec block and didn't have a problem with the L98 block.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

No matter if the block needs ground or you need a diff cover, please check and make sure you have the proper clearances.

dctrouant1995

Maybe an LB9 has a different size timing cover? And I always double check it, then have a mechanic check it

ASE doc

The vortec phenolic cover is different. And they crack and leak so I always replace them. The LB9 takes the same tin cover as the L98. No biggy either way as long as you verify clearance. I hate cheapy chrome so I use the OE tin cover. With the Cloyes DR set, I never had an option not to clearance the block. The cam sprocket won't install as the three cam oil gallery bosses interfere and have to be trimmed. That's my experience having installed dozens of them. As far as grinding the block being a bad thing, my machinist, who has built 100s of 700+ HP NASCAR small blocks is the one who first showed me how to do it.

Whether you clearance the block or not. Using the drive in front gallery plugs with a high volume, high pressure oil pump, not a good idea. Have to tap for pipe plugs or risk losing oil pressure at 6,000 rpm, which you'll only do once.

dctrouant1995

Well if I don't like it the chrome, I can paint it.

Do you have a part number to the timing chain set that you use?

How much has to be trimmed?

ASE doc

It's the Cloyes double roller. I would have to look for the P/N but you can find it easily at Summit Racing or JEG's. There is a set for flat tappet and one for factory hyd. roller.

The trimming is minimal. Just the outer tips of the oil gallery bosses. You can't mistake the bosses as they protrude from the block right behind the cam drive. The factory used drive in plugs on the front end of the galleries that they stake in place. We remove these for cleaning the block and then replace them with thread in pipe plugs for a more secure seal. I test fit the cam sprocket first to be sure of fit and just trim enough for the sprocket to clear.

ASE doc

Cloyes P/N 9-3100. Summit no longer lists them as hyd roller vs. flat tappet but the set is specific to each application so be sure to specify.

dctrouant1995

Alright cool, thanks. Well now I've got 2 options to consider, single or double roller

APACHE JOHN

I'm with Vincent on this put your money elsewhere. Heck I've never replaced a plastic cover either.....just reuse them.

dctrouant1995

Do the plastic ones hold up as good as a steel? I think I'm just going to go with a single roller, a lot less to worry about, this motor only has to last me another year or 2

dctrouant1995

Well finally made some progress today. Got most of the wiring unplugged, distributor cap and plug wires out, throttle body removed, a/c compressor out of the way, unfortunately I wont be able to do much more until I get the rest of my tools from work... Stupid torx bits.

zero13

saw you were gonna do the pulleys too..as a ex user of the pulleys,i say save your money and time..yes you may gain some "parasitic" power,but battery doesnt charge as properly,windows roll slower,etc...i ended up getting rid of them real quick...although,they were "shiny"..take your stock ones,get em sandblasted,and powdercoat them to your liking..you were saying you wanted mostly stock anyways...

dctrouant1995

Which kit did you use? Or are they pretty much all the same.
Unfornately i wont be able to finish, somebody was crazy enough to give me what i was asking for it so I had to let it go. Ill get me another one day