After much research, I've decide to go with an LT1 cam. This is gonna be a slow build because I wont be doing anything until I have all the parts. Here is the parts list:
LT1 cam, comp cams valve springs, scorpion rocker arms, cloyes single roller timing chain, felpro head gasket set, felpro cam change gasket kit (timing cover and water pump gaskets), injectors, ignition coil, spark plug wires, headers and y pipe, slp intake runners, slp air foil, k&n filter, FAST tps sensor and iac valve, msd ignition wires, custom chip, pulley kit, valve seals, and maybe lifters.
I'm currently looking for another 305 bottom end so I can rebuild that and put it under all this.
If anybody has any of these parts that are in good condition and are looking to sell, let me know.
Thanks

 

Project will be on hold for a while. Just got 2 tickets tonight, 55 in a "40" and running a "red light" He just had to pull me over and not the 4 cars around me.This is some major

 

Its a long way from u but I got a rollor 305 bored over 40 I also have a set of 113 heads

 

I want to keep the stock heads and keep the motor stock, for now. Thanks though

 

Dont use that Fel-Pro head gasket. You will lose compression. That gasket is .038 thickness. Use a shim gasket. Its .018 thickness. It will raise the compression up to 10-1 to 10-3 compression making more power.

 

Whats a shim gasket? how good are they for street/everyday use? got a part number?

 

A lt1 cam makes it not stock and u may pull a stud out. Those head gaskets can cost 100 per side with a few more bucks u can get new pistons to up the cr

 

They cost less than Fel-Pro
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...=&pgGrp=search
We use this gasket to raise the compression to on 355cu
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...=&pgGrp=search

 

It will not pull a stud out, Ive done alot of reading. Thanks for the links! are they better than stock gaskets?

 

As long as you torque them right, they will not blow. Yes they are just as good if not better that factory. These gaskets will boost the compression.

 

torque to factory specs? how much will it raise compression? will I have to run premium gas?

 

About half a point. Maybe for the gas but it could be tuned. More compression makes more power. Torque to factory specs.

 

Alright cool, thanks

 

That gasket is for 3.870, I have 3.736 bore, Will it be alright?

 

Yes

 

How does it seal properly with it being bigger? Sorry for all the questions haha

 

If you bore the block .030 over it will still be fine. Don't worry about it. All gaskets are a little larger than the stock bore.

 

Yes sir u can use stock 350 gasket on a 355. But your stock CR should be 9.5 to 1 IIRC, so u should go up to 9.7 to 1. U may not be able to use 87 anymore. Are u just looking for more power for your DD. I wish I had a rollor motor but than my cam and lifters would had cost more. If u looking to do drag racing I know a guy that shooting 150 on a stock 305 5spd just with tube RLCA and panhard bar running deep in the the 12s. He did blew up his 10 bolt with stickys.

 

Just more power for a DD, enough to **** stock 350s and stock LT1s off

 

Don't take much I have a vid on the tube of me blowing the doors off a stock lt1 in my 305, flat tap reman motor. Look to get a HSR or some better intake, I'm sure u know how tpi pulls pass 4500 rpms. Make sure u do something about the 700r4 it won't shift into 4th at WOT (lost a few races not knowing).

 

He has a 305. He just needs to raise the compression to get up to 10-1. He'll be fine on 89 octane. These are just a little inexpensive tricks with machine work. Do a mild port job and a LT1 cam with a good exhaust he will be in the low 13's @ 102-105.

Most of the standard gaskets people use by Fel-Pro are .038. Us people down here in SoCal use .028 for med street motors.

 

How hard is it to do the port job? What tools do I need? I dynoed the car this weekend at spring fling, 176 hp, 233 tq

 

Take them to a machine shop to get it done right.

 

What about the runners and plenum?

 

Porting a plenum doesnt do much of anything few cfm maybe
Stock runners id put aside and get some ASM or something aftermarket

With Vincent on the heads pay a pro.

 

I was thinking about SLP runners if I can get a used set

 

used seems hard to find nowadays. I just picked up a set new but never used after looking for a few months. I'm in the middle of porting them right now. Stock base tho. On a budget. Good luck with your build. I will be watching.

 

I upgraded to ZZ4 cam, screw-in studs, Pro Magnum rockers, CM rods, stock heads, TPIS runners and ported plenum...for now. Should be some decent HP numbers.

 

formula forver- I know. May just have to get a new set.

The Project- sounds awesome! what screw in studs did you use?

 

subscribed.

 

I am thinking an LT1 type cam as well, but also the Hooker 2055 headers with the y-pipe into the 3" collector. Would that be a more viable route than porting the plenum, etc...?

 

Well I still want to have the plenum-heads at least port matched and polished, I'm going the Hedman headers and y pipe, cant afford hookers right now. Plus as many miles as this motor has on it, I don't want to spend alot of time or money on it. Just play with it

 

Which Hedman headers? Can you post a link to them?

 

Headers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/he...model/firebird

Y pipe: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-17478

 

I used Comp Cams for the screw in studs, pro-magnum 1.5 rockers, Chrome Moly(CM) Rods, beehive springs (to handle the ZZ4 cam lift) and double roller timing chain.

I also run SLP headers and pipe

 

Nice!! Whats the difference between beehive and regular springs? Also is there any advantage to the double roller?

 

The beehive will fit the 305 heads with no modification. ZZ4 springs require the spring pocket to be enlarged as the 305 pocket is smaller than the 350 pocket.

Cost to make the 305 pocket bigger was the same as buying the beehives....no brainer.

Also, installed Fel-Pro posi valve seals to keep oil blow-by at a minimum.

Double roller stretches less than a single. Bought a simple Summit Racing timing chain cover to fit. Factory cover will not fit the double roller. Summits cover is pretty cheap and looks good.

 

Got a part number to the timing cover and timing chain and valve seals? Thanks. I'm probably just going to run the comp cams ones that I found

 

Here you go...

Timing Chain Cover SUM-G3200 - $ 8.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g3200

Comp Cams DOuble Roller Timing Chain CCA-3136 - $72.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-3136

Valve Seals FEL-SS72527 - $13.00
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fe...7/media/images

 

.

 

Awesome thanks, I found the comp cams magnum timing chaining for $30 since I won't be upgrading my motor as much as you have. Also found the complete timing cover kit from Summit, it has all the gaskets, bolts and cover. Did you use those seals on the exhaust also? Or did you use the ones they recommended? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-ss72526

 

Why do you need a new timing chain cover? Waste of money

 

Going double roller timing chain, I think. Still undecided

 

Both.

 

Do they seal better?

 

Can't say as I'm building the motor. My mechanic installed them and I trust his judgement.

There are a few threads on TGO stating the posi valve seals work well.


Also, as far as I know, the stock cover will not fit over a CC double roller chain.

 

The stock will fit a double roller chain. I've been doing it to 25 years. Who told you that?

 

Thw Project- Alright cool. Imma have to keep researching more. I've had a few people who owned mechanic shops and who build motors say the stock gm timing cover will not clear any double roller. I'd rather not take a chance.
VincentZ28- Read up haha. I don't know a whole lot about double roller timing chains as I've never installed or used one. I'd rather buy a new timing chain cover that will clear with no problems than have problems later down the road. I will keep reading on here and talk to some more people to find out for sure

 

Most of us in SoCal uses double roller chains with the stock cover and never had a problem. Some people don't know what they are talking about or never tried.

 

He prolly confusing the cover not fitting with grinding needed on the block to make it work. Not a big deal.