Corry

Bottom line first

What are the chances the diff is blown?

Is there any kind of stop leak for differentals

What is the proper torque for the pinion nut/yoke if I have to replace the seal?

The story....

So I FINIALLY got the LT1/T56 installed, what a job...throttle, breaks, everything working, so I take it out for a test run. Figuring if something is going to go wrong, it will if I punch it a little. So still in 1st I punch it to about 3/4 pedal.....what a sound! It gets up to about 2500RPM then a loud bang, followed by nothing....I think mybe the clutch took a dump so I try and shift into 2nd, no prob! Start to let off the clutch and I hear banging.......must be U-Joints. So I pull it off into the neighbors driveway (Yeah, I didn't get very far!) and look under it....my poor driveshaft is sitting on the ground I put it up on the torque arm and push it back to my driveway, I don't hear any odd noises as I push it... Jack it up, and find that a U-Joint strap is loose....1 bolt....I already had some "odd trouble" when I had noticed after the car was shipped the fuel feed line was cut in the rubber section....so anyways, I go and see about new straps....can't find any that fit (Motormite sucks...totally wrong, didn't come close to fitting) so I decide to move on and replace the sway bar bushings....Then it happens, I notice the blue-green Redline oil very and I mean VERY slowly dripping down the yoke. I try and test the posi, turns out the "wheels in the air" case won't let you test the Zexel Torsen rear, so now I am faced with possibly a blown rear, and I guess definatly a blown pinion seal. I can't see how the rear went, I did the buildup of the 10 bolt (28 spline axles, Ratec pinion spacer, diff support cover, etc). I am trying to be able to drive this thing 100 miles tomorrow, so I'd rather not pull the cover to check the rear if I can avoid it.

ede

pull the cover, maybe the carrier and inspect it. did you put the seal in dry? they'll burn up on first use if they're dry. how did you do all the rear end work and not know the torque spec on the pinion nut the first time? with used bearings preload should be around 20 in/lbs, new bearings in the 30 in/lbs range. your manual shouls give you an exact spec. you can stop the leak by fixing the problem.

Corry

I didn't do the work, it wasn't just done, I was giving the info I had done to it to show that I don't think a first time run of the new motor/trans would blow it when it was working fine before the swap. My manual got left in texas, and I am waiting for it to be shipped up to me, so I do not have the manual to look up the torque spec. I'd rather not pull the cover because I cannot get more redline oil for a week from summit, so I'd have to use one of those other oils lol.

Steve89GTA

Just have the seal replaced and fix the driveshaft u-joint. When my u-joint went, it also took the pinion seal with it cause of the wobling effect. Replaced the driveshaft and the seal and had no problems since (with the rear that is).