should I upgrade stock axles
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should I upgrade stock axles
Hey guys,
I am upgrading my rear end with 4.10 gears and fresh wearable parts, and while I am doing this, I got to thinking if I should do other things to it while I am in there.
1) I want to buy aluminum case cover with fins and cooling passages from SLP ($100)
2) The one I am not sure about is if I should switch out the axles I have now for something stronger. I went on Moser website and they had a pair for $225. Do you guys think this is worth it? Or should I just stick to stock?
Someday I'll update my sig. But basically I am building this for some racing and some weekend use. Planning about 350-400 hp with T56 when I am done with this thing
I am upgrading my rear end with 4.10 gears and fresh wearable parts, and while I am doing this, I got to thinking if I should do other things to it while I am in there.
1) I want to buy aluminum case cover with fins and cooling passages from SLP ($100)
2) The one I am not sure about is if I should switch out the axles I have now for something stronger. I went on Moser website and they had a pair for $225. Do you guys think this is worth it? Or should I just stick to stock?
Someday I'll update my sig. But basically I am building this for some racing and some weekend use. Planning about 350-400 hp with T56 when I am done with this thing
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Car: Huffy 10 speed ;)
Engine: My legs
Transmission: My wrist
Axle/Gears: Little spokey things
Re: should I upgrade stock axles
If you are upgrading anyway, I would go with the aftermarket axles. Well worth the little bit of money for the extra insurance. Also, instead of an SLP cover, go with a girdle form Jegs, AAM or TA performance, it hlps a lot and doesn't cost all that much more than a regular upgraded cover.
If you can, also weld the seam around the center housing, the are only held in with 2 spot welds per side and can fluxuate pretty easy. Another good trick is use a spacer instead of a crush sleeve when installing the new pinion.
If you can, also weld the seam around the center housing, the are only held in with 2 spot welds per side and can fluxuate pretty easy. Another good trick is use a spacer instead of a crush sleeve when installing the new pinion.
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thanks for the feedback. Actually the cover I am talking about is made by AAM, sold by SLP. Here's the link Is that one of the good ones, or can I do better?
I'll take a look at the spacer idea. If I use that instead of crush sleeve, does preload setting procedure change any, or does principle remain the same?
I'll take a look at the spacer idea. If I use that instead of crush sleeve, does preload setting procedure change any, or does principle remain the same?
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Car: Huffy 10 speed ;)
Engine: My legs
Transmission: My wrist
Axle/Gears: Little spokey things
That's the cover I refered to. I don't know why it says 93 and up though, that's weird.
As for the spacer in place of the crush sleeve, the preload works the same, you just can't tighten until the sleeve crushes, if that makes any sense.
As for the spacer in place of the crush sleeve, the preload works the same, you just can't tighten until the sleeve crushes, if that makes any sense.
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
The ring gear/pinion will frag long before your axles. I did all the above mentioned minus the steel crush sleeve in my 4th and last 7.5" rear diff and it lasted all of a couple races-with my small motor.
If it's just a street car only it'll live forever since traction wont be an option.
If it's just a street car only it'll live forever since traction wont be an option.
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