rear axle
#1
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 87 Borg warner 3.27
rear axle
hello I'm new here and I have a question
I have a play in the rear wheels. It doesn't seem to be the usual play that comes from the bearings, as the play is felt when you push or pull on the wheel. It seems like the whole semi-axle is moving with the wheels when I push or pull each one. Any idea if this play is normal ?? According to me, the play is something like 3 or 4 mm.
Also my differential (WS6 car) is shot (worn discs), could it be linked with the above description or it has nothing to do with it ??
I also hear a noise that increases with the speed (still coming from the rear axle). It is often said it's the bearings which are getting worn, but in my case, could it be something else linked to my differential problem ??
thanks
I have a play in the rear wheels. It doesn't seem to be the usual play that comes from the bearings, as the play is felt when you push or pull on the wheel. It seems like the whole semi-axle is moving with the wheels when I push or pull each one. Any idea if this play is normal ?? According to me, the play is something like 3 or 4 mm.
Also my differential (WS6 car) is shot (worn discs), could it be linked with the above description or it has nothing to do with it ??
I also hear a noise that increases with the speed (still coming from the rear axle). It is often said it's the bearings which are getting worn, but in my case, could it be something else linked to my differential problem ??
thanks
#3
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
if you can hear a noise from the rear, bearings might save you, but sometimes you're already too far gone....
I think a complete rear end rebuild is in the works for you. It's not *that* pricey to replace bearings and seals in the rear, and you can do it yourself (I did a few months ago).
I think the play you're noticing is ok, perhaps your c-clips are a bit worn (on a car this old, it's to be expected). I think you can get new ones from GM, but while your into the rear, might as well do the bearings/seals like I mentioned above.
I think a complete rear end rebuild is in the works for you. It's not *that* pricey to replace bearings and seals in the rear, and you can do it yourself (I did a few months ago).
I think the play you're noticing is ok, perhaps your c-clips are a bit worn (on a car this old, it's to be expected). I think you can get new ones from GM, but while your into the rear, might as well do the bearings/seals like I mentioned above.
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 87 Borg warner 3.27
Do I need to replace my worn disc or can I drive the car like a non WS6 car since I don't care to have a limited slip or not. If I can't I'll change the discs.
#6
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
put your car info in the sidebar.
It depends on your posi if it'll be easy or possible to rebuild your posi.
You can drive it with a worn posi, no big deal.
count the bolts on your differential cover, it'll be 9 or 10 bolts, if it's a 10 bolt I can tell you how to replace your c-clips, if it's a 9 bolt, I don't think it uses c-clips...?
it's not really a big deal, but you can replace them if it'll make you feel better.
It depends on your posi if it'll be easy or possible to rebuild your posi.
You can drive it with a worn posi, no big deal.
count the bolts on your differential cover, it'll be 9 or 10 bolts, if it's a 10 bolt I can tell you how to replace your c-clips, if it's a 9 bolt, I don't think it uses c-clips...?
it's not really a big deal, but you can replace them if it'll make you feel better.
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#8
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
OK, call up gm and ask for a pair of c-clips for your 1984 camaro's rear end. 10 bolt, posi, 7.5" rear.
buy yourself a 6 point box end 5/16" wrench, nothing else will do, trust me. rotate the center section there, probably by turning the yoke on the pinion, until you can see a 5/16" bolt head, it'll be pointing towards your right side, coming out of the center section. grab a torch, propane, butane, etc, and heat up where the threads of the bolt would be, 1/4"-3/4" to the left of the bolt head (duh), that'll heat up the loctite holding the bolt in. Then use your 6 point wrench, and break the bolt loose, and remove it. you'll notice a 3/4" diameter rod that the bolt is going into (called the cross shaft or cross pin), once you remove that bolt, the cross pin might fall out. maybe not, I had to hammer mine out. hopefully it'll come out. then grab each axle in turn, and push it inwards, the cross pin was holding them outwards, so push them in. then you'll see a c-clip on the end of each axle, pull it off, replace it with the new one.
assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
If your c-clips are really worn (they should be ~1/8" thick), then replacing it will fix your problem, if not, then you just wasted a 1/2 hour of your life. Chalk it up to a learning experience. At least you'll know how the c-clips control your axle's float.
have fun. remember, re-fill with gear lube (75W90 oil) and a bottle of posi additive.
buy yourself a 6 point box end 5/16" wrench, nothing else will do, trust me. rotate the center section there, probably by turning the yoke on the pinion, until you can see a 5/16" bolt head, it'll be pointing towards your right side, coming out of the center section. grab a torch, propane, butane, etc, and heat up where the threads of the bolt would be, 1/4"-3/4" to the left of the bolt head (duh), that'll heat up the loctite holding the bolt in. Then use your 6 point wrench, and break the bolt loose, and remove it. you'll notice a 3/4" diameter rod that the bolt is going into (called the cross shaft or cross pin), once you remove that bolt, the cross pin might fall out. maybe not, I had to hammer mine out. hopefully it'll come out. then grab each axle in turn, and push it inwards, the cross pin was holding them outwards, so push them in. then you'll see a c-clip on the end of each axle, pull it off, replace it with the new one.
assembly is the reverse of disassembly.
If your c-clips are really worn (they should be ~1/8" thick), then replacing it will fix your problem, if not, then you just wasted a 1/2 hour of your life. Chalk it up to a learning experience. At least you'll know how the c-clips control your axle's float.
have fun. remember, re-fill with gear lube (75W90 oil) and a bottle of posi additive.
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 87 Borg warner 3.27
I have replaced the rear axle bearing and want to remove the differencial for a check up ,But I don't know how to remove it.
thanks
thanks
#11
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
there are 4 bolts, 2 on each side, holding your main caps on. Remove the bolts, remove the caps. assuming your cross pin and axles are already out, then you can remove the diff. It'll take 2 pry bars, prying on the ring gear bolts, then working around and prying, and it'll come out.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
the c-clips wear a bit.
gear slop shouldn't let the axles float in and outwards, just rotational slop.
gear slop shouldn't let the axles float in and outwards, just rotational slop.
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Car: 85 iroc-z
Engine: blown 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
If your limeted slip cluches or c-clips are worn out it will add exesive end play to your axles. to test it jack up one rear wheel and put a torq wrench on one of your lug nuts (car in nutrel) It should take aprox. 150-200 ftlb of torq to turn the wheel. If it is bad you realy should get it fixed . The axle slaming back and forth every time you turn is not a good thing. If you snap the end of an axle it will coust a lot more to fix.
#16
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 87 Borg warner 3.27
the C-clips look ok ,but when I turn one wheels,the another one turn in the oposite direction like a standard differentiel.I think that the worn differential disk could cause this play.
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Car: White 25th Anniversary RS
Engine: lt1
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4:10
its probably just an old worn out 10 bolt just upgrade it to 28spline axles and a zexel or auburn carrier.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
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Car: White 25th Anniversary RS
Engine: lt1
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4:10
you should make some easy mods while its apart to strengthen it up. find some axles out of a 90-92 camaro and they will work even drum axles work if you have disc you can just get 94-97 rotors.. They are 28 spline and are a little stronger. While there out you might as well weld them realy quik to make them even stronger. theres only two weld psots on stock axles and welding them complete helps keep them together. Next look on ebay for a zexel torsen posi unit or and auburn 3 series posi. assemble with a summit cover and you will have a stronger rear for sure. hope this help.
Jeff
Jeff
#20
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 87 Borg warner 3.27
thanks but do I need to do some adjustment with the stock gear ring and the pinion of attack
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Car: White 25th Anniversary RS
Engine: lt1
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4:10
not too sure i understand you.. but yes you need to always check your back lash and pinion depth.If your just swapping gears maybe you wil get lucky using your old thickness shims. im fighting right now with getting the backlash and pinion depth correct this can be a pain. backlash should be .005-.008 and pinion depth maybee someone else can chime in. you will need a dial indicator to test you lash. Its actually really easy but the carrier will need to go in and out 20 times adding and subtracting shims until your backlash is correct and your wear pattern is correct.. LOL I will post some pics if i can find my camera. ill show you my welded axle to.
Thanks,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
#22
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 87 Borg warner 3.27
I want to dissasemble my differential but I don't know how to remove the bushing lockout
[img=http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/2734/17288ur.th.jpg]
[img=http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/2734/17288ur.th.jpg]
Last edited by Pierre; 05-20-2006 at 01:03 PM.
#23
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Car: White 25th Anniversary RS
Engine: lt1
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4:10
just remove the 8mm bolt that goes through it and it comes right out. next take the axle clips off by pushing in on the axles and they drop right off. next slid your axles out and remove the carrier with a big prybar or jack handle.
#24
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
uh, I think he's past that, he's trying to take apart the diff now.
#27
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Car: White 25th Anniversary RS
Engine: lt1
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Its probably cheaper just to buy a new one. Or just take it to a shop and have them looks at it. Rebuilding one of them is not really a begginer job to be honest with you.
#28
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 87 Borg warner 3.27
I want to replace the internal compound of the diff because where I live there is no shop that know about diff especially a posi ,and nobody know including me , how to adjust a new one .I also don't find a correct replacement diff that allow me to keep my axles and disk brake rotors .
#29
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 87 Borg warner 3.27
Do you konw guys if I can find a OEM diff? I searched on the net but found nothing
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Car: 85 iroc-z
Engine: blown 350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 4.10
dude you can take your diff. to any ring & pinion shop GM dealer ect. they can put in new cluches $100.00 shim kit $20.00 aprox. $50.00 for labor its about a 1 hour job (if its out of the housing). If you replace the carier it will coust you a lot more + you will have to have somone set it up for you. Do your self a favore take it to some one and have it repaird.
#31
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Car: 1984 Trans Am WS6
Engine: 305 HO
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 87 Borg warner 3.27
this is the problem there is no GM dealer in france and there si no shop doing thing like that here.
But I live close to germany and there are GM shops I'll try that
thanks
But I live close to germany and there are GM shops I'll try that
thanks
Last edited by Pierre; 05-24-2006 at 01:54 AM.
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