Transmissions and DrivetrainNeed help with your trans? Problems with your axle?
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More TCI junk. This thinking of running full line pressure all the time is what destroys the pump. TCI, B&M, Art Carr, etc., because of their lack of understanding accumulation, and being lazy, their transmissions having firm shifts all of the time at part throttle, constant front pump problems, sealing ring problems, parts breakage, type "F" fluid, never solving problems and just creating more, etc. Thirty years of seeing this speed shop mentality, hot rod magazine thinking has done nothing in terms of solving transmission issues. They have done a good job of parting from your wallet through marketing your money for a pile of ??? (use your imagination). Don't get me started!!!!
Last edited by Pro Built Automatics; 06-02-2007 at 05:22 PM.
I had a feeling that would be the response is why I put it up in the first place. I figured you have gone all directions with this. I read something saying shift kits are not recommended but you mention the transgo kit is the way to go. Im trying to understand what the thinking behind that is as well. I dont mean to be a pest but from alot of reading there are so many different opinions. Its hard to know whats best.
I'm not a transmission guy, but it would seem like a constant high pressure would be hard on stuff. A quick shift at upper RPM's makes sense. But a bang shift at 20 mph into 2nd is just asking for trouble. Hard shifts all the time I would think would be the same as having a TV cable adjusted wrong. (Fry the tranny)
Max line all the time is not a good idea , It beats the crap out of the trans when its not needed. Ill have to agree with PBA on this one very bad idea,
Ok I think Im set with the heavy duty kit with corvette servo. One more thing off my list. I dont know how you guys talk about this stuff all day. It makes my head hurt. Far worse than engine building. Thanks for all the advice.
I was having all sorts of issues with with my TV cable and could not get it right. I tried everything with no success. I put this new valve body in and have been nothing but pleased with it. The car shifts great now. Using the "street plus" setup, I thought it shifted too hard. I think just using the "street" set up will be good for most. The high pressure this valve body creates is enough by itself to firm everything up.
Jonarotz, you still okay with that constant line pressure? any trans or front pump problems.?
__________________ 87 GTA: 645hp/656 ft lbs. at 5300, (tossed blower belt across room). 383 stroker: je pistons, manley rods, chromoly crank, 8.38:1 CR. Vortech V-1 14lbs boost, Vortech carb enclosure, 750 mighty demon, Trickflow 2.02 ported heads. 8 point roll cage (MBRC). Freddy Brown full manual custom 700-R4, 10" converter. Old motor. Best ET 12.689 @ 109.4 w/ a 1.85 60 on 255 street radials. tranny was slipping real bad, had to pedal it to shift. looking for 10's now.
I have since gone to a 4L60E trans and love it. I am running the TCI controller and love being able to "tune" the shift characteristics.
When I was using the constant pressure valvebody, I thought it shifted too hard especially for daily driver use. It was border line annoying. It did solve all of my early and soft shift problems though. I was forced to pull the 700R4 out when the servo blew out and ruined the case one morning on the way to work. I don't know if the valvebody caused this or if the snap ring was damaged and failed to hold it all in.
Let me know if you have any more questions I will try to help you out. Are you currently running this valvebody?
__________________ 91 Z28 T-top 355 HSR Ported & Polished Alum Heads
Twin Turbo setup w/GT66's
Running on E85
Accel DFI Gen 7
Accel 83 lb/hr injectors
Accel 300+ Ignition
4L60E TCI TCU
Spohn Torque arm an X-member, SFC's &
Adjustable Lakewood LCA's & Panhard Bar
BMR wonderbar
KYB shocks & Lakewood drag struts
LS1 Disc Brakes all 4 corners
Moser 9" Detroit Locker, 3.50 gears, 35 spline axles
Spohn Driveshaft
I know a guy who put TCI constant pressure valve body in a built 700R4 behind a 383 last summer, drove it on weekends, made 6 passes and the pump gave out.... I will stick w/ my probuilt!
"When I was using the constant pressure valvebody, I thought it shifted too hard especially for daily driver use. It was border line annoying."
This is what I have been saying for years on this. As for the snap ring breaking the case, it is usually dirt that is under the snap ring that causes the breakage due to the ring not being fully seated. High line pressure all of the time did not help though. Yes, the 4L60E allows you to "tune" the shift characteristics of the transmission, which can have certain advantages.
ProBuilt-- Other than going 4L60//4L80 or turbo400, What has to be done to the 700R4 to live with a 460 (+.030 454, 284ish dur. cam @ .550ish lift bigblock) that would see alot of street driving?
Or is that piss*ng in the wind?
4:10/?/:11 may go in the rear this summer,but IDK what the stock rear ratio is that it has now.
For 2010,we will stay with the lil 15" tires.
The Street/Strip rebuild kit would be more than enough for what you suggest. I have other kits that go up from here in terms of horsepower. The right torque converter is necessary for this combination to work right. Dana
The 4L60E is basically a 700R4 but computer controlled. So you will need a controller to control it. I am using TCI's TCU piece and I am happy with it. There is no need for a different driveshaft or anything since it is physically the same as a 700R4. I have my 4L60E behind a twin turbo small block making 600hp and it is holding up just fine. I have beefed it up however so it is upgraded for the extra power. Overall I am very happy with it.
__________________ 91 Z28 T-top 355 HSR Ported & Polished Alum Heads
Twin Turbo setup w/GT66's
Running on E85
Accel DFI Gen 7
Accel 83 lb/hr injectors
Accel 300+ Ignition
4L60E TCI TCU
Spohn Torque arm an X-member, SFC's &
Adjustable Lakewood LCA's & Panhard Bar
BMR wonderbar
KYB shocks & Lakewood drag struts
LS1 Disc Brakes all 4 corners
Moser 9" Detroit Locker, 3.50 gears, 35 spline axles
Spohn Driveshaft
what were the costs for the tranny and computer control??? thanks
__________________ 87 GTA: 645hp/656 ft lbs. at 5300, (tossed blower belt across room). 383 stroker: je pistons, manley rods, chromoly crank, 8.38:1 CR. Vortech V-1 14lbs boost, Vortech carb enclosure, 750 mighty demon, Trickflow 2.02 ported heads. 8 point roll cage (MBRC). Freddy Brown full manual custom 700-R4, 10" converter. Old motor. Best ET 12.689 @ 109.4 w/ a 1.85 60 on 255 street radials. tranny was slipping real bad, had to pedal it to shift. looking for 10's now.
what were the costs for the tranny and computer control??? thanks
The trans will depend on where you get it but probably a couplhundred more then a 700R4. The controller will cost close to a $1000 by the time you get the wiring harness and everything.
More TCI junk. This thinking of running full line pressure all the time is what destroys the pump. TCI, B&M, Art Carr, etc., because of their lack of understanding accumulation, and being lazy, their transmissions having firm shifts all of the time at part throttle, constant front pump problems, sealing ring problems, parts breakage, type "F" fluid, never solving problems and just creating more, etc. Thirty years of seeing this speed shop mentality, hot rod magazine thinking has done nothing in terms of solving transmission issues. They have done a good job of parting from your wallet through marketing your money for a pile of ??? (use your imagination). Don't get me started!!!!
so i shouldn't use type F fluid in my 700R4? (i'm not by-the-way) just curious if it would help my wot shifts. i put in the $30 b&m kit with a rebuild and my part throttle shifts are hard and my wot shifts are slow. do i need to do the transgo kit? how much is your kit?
"I put in the $30 B&M kit with a rebuild and my part throttle shifts are hard and my wot shifts are slow."
This doesn't surprise me. The TransGo Shift kit that I offer has smooth part throttle shifts and the shifts getting firmer with more throttle. This will give you the best chance at a long transmission life. Go to https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/home.php?cat=65 This should give you some ideas as to what to do here.
so i shouldn't use type F fluid in my 700R4? (i'm not by-the-way) just curious if it would help my wot shifts. i put in the $30 b&m kit with a rebuild and my part throttle shifts are hard and my wot shifts are slow. do i need to do the transgo kit? how much is your kit?
I'm running his Street/Strip with Corvette servo kit. I've had it in there for 3 years now. Daily driver is no problem. It never gets annoying. My wife doesn't complain about it being too firm. Neither does my mother. But at the same time when you want to get going, it gives the perfect shift feel. You can break the tires loose if you want. There is a difference between hard and quick. Dana's kit is quick.
The transmission shop I took it to was very surprised at how flexible the car was after it was done. Everything from near stock feel at low throttle to snap of the fingers shifts at full throttle. They simply followed all the custom instructions that Pro Built Automatic includes with his package. (and boy were those instructions customized. Do this, don't do that. This part crossed out. Do this instead. Don't drill here etc. I can see why he calls is a "modified" TransGo kit.)