SDalt404

iTrader: (4)

I just got my clutch replaced today and when I went to pick the car up the clutch released about 1-2 inches from the floor. When I brought the car in the clutch released with me bearly have to push it. They are saying I need to drive the car and break the clutch in. What do you guys think? Are they trying to esacpe responsibility for something?

Oh and the car will not go into reverse without grinding.

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

The shop shouldnt give it to you untill it will atleast go into all of the gears without grinding so id complain. tell em to bleed the slave some more.

It is true that with driving the clutch will self bleed in a way and get better but grinding into any gear is BS. And I was a mechanic so I know

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

I'd think that reverse has more to do with the trans than with the clutch. Most members shift into a forward gear before going to reverse (no sincro).

JamesC

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

Tru. I usually do that out of habit so i dont think about it.

I guess that would be the need to know info there

SDalt404

iTrader: (4)

doesn't go into reverse no matter what I do. I have to shut the car off put it in reverse and start the car.

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

does it go into any of the forward gears kind of rough? Based on how you say the clutch feels I'd say it needs to be bled more and/or its not disengaging right

SDalt404

iTrader: (4)

The car goes into gears ok when driving. At a stop it is very notchy. Reverse is impossible to get into.

BTW, You can push the pedal half way down with very little resistance. Then when the pedal gets about half way it feels like it has some pressure, but I have to press the pedal againest the floor to get the clutch to disengage.

I don't see how putting a new clutch in has anything to do with the hydraulic system. You just unbolt the slave and then rebolt it after the clutch was replaced. Which makes be think they broke something.

SDalt404

iTrader: (4)

I found this:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tran...t+pedal+clutch


Good Quote that describes my issue:

"Well, if the metal teeth are up on top of the throwout bearing, outside the groove, then that's your problem. They're supposed to be like the lower pic, where they're inside the throwout bearing groove.
If they're outside the groove, they will hold the throwout bearing away from the fork by about 1/8", which translates to near ½" of slave cylinder travel. This will force the clutch to adjust itself to that point, and what you end up with in effect, is only about ¼" of slave cylinder travel that's actually doing useful work. The first half or more of the clutch pedal's motion is doing nothing except taking up the slack from that little spring."


What should I say to the shop to get them to check this? It describes my problem exactly!

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

i was chasing my tail my bad. Assuming they opened the hydraulics.

If they didnt then make sure the plastic cup is still on the end of the clutch slave. If its not there you will not get the full use of the clutch ever. if the cap is still on the end of the slave rod then you need to pull the tranny and see whats going on inside the bell housing

1986Sleeper

I am a mechanic here in town, and have put several clutches in, if the bled the system there is still air in it.
But by you saying the pedal will go down a bit without and preasure than I'd say that your slave cylinder is bad.
Its not a trans problem, the slave is not pushing the clutch fork far enough.

Also another possibility is that they bent the fork a bit while removing it. I would look at the fork for scratches or any sign of it being bent. If you bent it closer to the front of the car it would work fine. But that would be putting a band-aid over a problem lol... Either the system needs more bleeding, the slave is bad, or the fork is bent. I would lean more towards slave or fork. Reach under the car and see how much play the fork has. It should have no play and should sit firm on the rod of the slave.

hope this helps. No matter what the shop should have never given it to you like that. And they should say we will look at it and if its something we did we will fix it. I wouldnt go there anymore.

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

i was a mechanic too.. trust me the cap on the slave rod bit me a couple times untill i realized its supposed to be there ( lost it on a clutch job more than once..)

if the caps not there id buy a new slave and take that cap

1986Sleeper

thats true to i second that, from the pedal to the slave that little bit could cause the problem with the slack.

SDalt404

iTrader: (4)

The white plastic cap is on the end of the slave rod.

There is no reason to suspect anything is bad because it all worked fine when I brought it in. They also never opened the bleeder screw on the slave because they couldn't find it and told me it didn't have one.

I personally think they installed the throw out bearing wrong because I push the pedal down about half way and I can hear the throw out coming in contact with the pressure plate at that point. There is just alot of play in between that point.

Sitting back and thinking about it they really did some shady sh**. They told me to go drive around a car that obviously has an issue because they don't know what's wrong. If I listened to them I know I would end up breaking something or burning my clutch up. Which really ices my cake. Tommorrow should be a very interesting day.

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

yea dude go and raise hell. if the cap is there then something is really wrong.

As for the slave bleeder... i cant remember on my car ( i swapped my master and slave as a sealed unit ) but the ONLY time i even saw NO bleeder was on a 98 ram 2500 custom ordered with a v10 and 5spd. Mopar only sells the master and slave as a kit. Thats why

SDalt404

iTrader: (4)

Went up to the shop and raised some hell and it ended up being they installed the throwout bearing incorrectly. Everything works great now.