Jonathan Dyer

iTrader: (5)

I've read a number of posts about people using a Hydraulic TOB from Howe Racing that is made for the T5. I called Howe and explained what I was thinking of doing. This is what I was recommended:
http://howeracing.com/p-7754-improve...ck-clutch.aspx

But is this not for a push style clutch? My clutch setup is from an '84 which is pull isn't it?
Thanks,
Jon

<Edit> I've got this backwards don't I. The '93-'97 LT1 clutches were the pull ones with the TOB mounted in the clutch disc?

So then my '84 uses a release bearing that pushes against the clutch fingers?

JSD MOD 03/10/09

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Yep, that looks right.
You have the Z-bar linkage on a T5 eh? Weird, didn't think they did that.

That should work nicely. I have the Howe racing TO bearing on my T-10, to replace the Z-bar. I can show you how I did it if you need help setting it up.

Jonathan Dyer

iTrader: (5)

No actually. My car is an '83 and the owners manual describes the clutch pedal setup as a mechanical one. However, my transmission and clutch were pulled from an '84 and uses hydraulics. Apparently, 1984 was the first year.

As far as help goes, thanks for the offer and I may well take you up on that. At the moment I think I understand what I need to do. I'm sure there will an issue of one sort or another.

Thanks again,
Jon

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Fair enough.
If you're using the pedals and master cyl from the '84 it should be easy as pie. If you're using a customer master cyl, you may run into the trouble that I did (not much room there!). I had to rig up a bell crank thingy to actuate a Wilwood MC. Anyway - good luck!

Jonathan Dyer

iTrader: (5)

I picked up a Mcleod adjustable MC off ebay and was hoping that it will work. Certainly other board members have used it..we'll see.

I was musing about the best way to connect the hydraulic lines through the bell housing. When I bought the TO bearing I picked up the 'remote bleeder kit' as well. It comes with two length of braided line and a quick coupler. I assume the idea is to run the short line and terminate that at the bell housing at which point I can plug in the longer line to run back up to the reservoir for the initial bleed.

I don't much like the idea of stuff dangling out of the bell housing. I had thought about perhaps creating a metal plate to fill the space that the clutch fork currently occupies with holes and gromets for the lines to go through. But that plate would need to screwed or riveted in place. If, for some reason, I decide to go back to using the clutch fork this area might wind up slightly weakened.

I was also thinking about drilling through the bell housing elsewhere and using bulk head connectors that would alow me to attach the lines on either side. Could I damage the bell housing by drilling into it? Like set up cracks or something?

Thirdly, am I overthinking this? I suppose I could run the lines through the clutch fork boot and tie wrap it up tight to keep out the crap. Seems sloppy though.

How did you tackle yours?
Jon

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I don't even have the boot, mine is just open. I'd have to be driving through a LOT of water to fill that baby up. I'd rather just put in a small drain hole or something... Or you could use some type of thick poly sheet and RTV to make a cover, and punch holes in it for the lines, nobody will ever see it...

Jonathan Dyer

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, sometimes simple is better.
J