T-56 viper imput shaft
01-06-2021, 07:11 PM
#1
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T-56 viper imput shaft
Is There any other modifications besides the shaft in order to make the Viper input shaft work on lt1 t-56 2nd question I have a broken throw bearing retaining sleeve do I need it for the viper shaft
01-06-2021, 07:20 PM
#2
Re: T-56 viper imput shaft
Can't be a 1993 LT1 T56; must be 1994-1997.
Is it an LT1 bellhousing and LT1 engine? If yes, it's too long a shaft, with the wrong pilot tip. Use a stock type.
If no, then you'll have to add some detail about engine, bellhousing, clutch, and other parts to get an educated answer.
Any time a maindrive (input) is changed in the T56 line, the bearing shims need checked and preload re-set.
Is it an LT1 bellhousing and LT1 engine? If yes, it's too long a shaft, with the wrong pilot tip. Use a stock type.
If no, then you'll have to add some detail about engine, bellhousing, clutch, and other parts to get an educated answer.
Any time a maindrive (input) is changed in the T56 line, the bearing shims need checked and preload re-set.
01-06-2021, 08:33 PM
#4
Re: T-56 viper imput shaft
You're a late bloomer. The 93-97 clutch setup works, it lets you buy "97 Camaro" parts from any parts store in greater N. America, the clutch is well sized and works well.
In short, you are ready to get angry at a few hundred bucks. So you think you're ready to install the wrong input, which would then require greater total bellhousing depth, which then has you shortening the driveshaft, then screw with a different clutch release. You really think changing driveshaft length, bellhousing or spacer, and working around clutch release are going to be a lesser overall expense than just buying the right flywheel?
It's not. The only downside is flywheel cost in your case.
Last time I was hell bent to redesign things so I could run the cheap clutch and flywheel I wanted, I fabbed a way to run a T5 clutch with a 95 T56. It worked. But I put time, effort, and money into something that didn't work better than just running a stock LT1 clutch. Just to say I did. The fun thing has been seeing other custom setups other people have done over the years to avoid the pull clutch. In retrospect, I should have run it.
On a related rant, the old 2 pc rear main seal engines are the problem. Think about this; Gen I SBC engines are cheap. All 1987-2002 blocks can run a roller cam, all accept a cheap LT1 T56 flywheel, the cylinder walls last a long time with proper fueling. Put your effort into a new shortblock. Make it stronger. That's a better run on projects than some desire to run the wrong trans. and clutch parts. And you'd actually end up with something with actual benefit over what you have.
In short, you are ready to get angry at a few hundred bucks. So you think you're ready to install the wrong input, which would then require greater total bellhousing depth, which then has you shortening the driveshaft, then screw with a different clutch release. You really think changing driveshaft length, bellhousing or spacer, and working around clutch release are going to be a lesser overall expense than just buying the right flywheel?
It's not. The only downside is flywheel cost in your case.
Last time I was hell bent to redesign things so I could run the cheap clutch and flywheel I wanted, I fabbed a way to run a T5 clutch with a 95 T56. It worked. But I put time, effort, and money into something that didn't work better than just running a stock LT1 clutch. Just to say I did. The fun thing has been seeing other custom setups other people have done over the years to avoid the pull clutch. In retrospect, I should have run it.
On a related rant, the old 2 pc rear main seal engines are the problem. Think about this; Gen I SBC engines are cheap. All 1987-2002 blocks can run a roller cam, all accept a cheap LT1 T56 flywheel, the cylinder walls last a long time with proper fueling. Put your effort into a new shortblock. Make it stronger. That's a better run on projects than some desire to run the wrong trans. and clutch parts. And you'd actually end up with something with actual benefit over what you have.
01-09-2021, 04:33 PM
#5
Re: T-56 viper imput shaft
Ill add to this, i have the aftermarket t56 that uses a longer input shaft, but the t5 bell housing, clutch ect. Works good but puts the trans a couple inches further back. Requiring a custom crossmember, shorter driveshaft, torque arm and some creativity with tunnel clearance and engine angle. I like it because i didnt have to cut the floor, and was able to retain my clutch setup, which was all good parts. If i was starting from scratch i think your almost better off with the LT1 style trans
01-09-2021, 09:09 PM
#6
Senior Member
Re: T-56 viper imput shaft
Can't be a 1993 LT1 T56; must be 1994-1997.
Is it an LT1 bellhousing and LT1 engine? If yes, it's too long a shaft, with the wrong pilot tip. Use a stock type.
If no, then you'll have to add some detail about engine, bellhousing, clutch, and other parts to get an educated answer.
Any time a maindrive (input) is changed in the T56 line, the bearing shims need checked and preload re-set.
Is it an LT1 bellhousing and LT1 engine? If yes, it's too long a shaft, with the wrong pilot tip. Use a stock type.
If no, then you'll have to add some detail about engine, bellhousing, clutch, and other parts to get an educated answer.
Any time a maindrive (input) is changed in the T56 line, the bearing shims need checked and preload re-set.
01-10-2021, 09:59 PM
#7
Re: T-56 viper imput shaft
There are documents referring to the 1993 ratios making it to the 1994 models, but they didn't. If you have the tag bolted down with an extension housing bolt, or the sticker, the serial, model, and PN info can be explained.
The aluminum 3-4 shift fork wallowed the hole riding on the main shift rail with use. This reduced 3rd and fourth synchro travel. But the forks didn't bend.
The aluminum 3-4 shift fork wallowed the hole riding on the main shift rail with use. This reduced 3rd and fourth synchro travel. But the forks didn't bend.
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